flanders NFR AP1 build
03-12-2016, 02:31 AM
#22
Thread Starter
I'll try my best thank you 
Another small upgrade I did was getting a dual catch can from Saikou michi
Sourced some hoses
My non stock battery seemed to be a bit to big and it got really tight against the AC lines so had to used some foam tape there
Everything installed, lots of hosing added but looking pretty discrete
I ran with this setup for a while but the cans didn't seem to catch any oil at all, not even a drop came out from them.
Maybe my engine didn't blow out that much oil or maybe the baffling inside the Saikous wasn't enough, hard to tell since you can't look inside them.
Another small upgrade I did was getting a dual catch can from Saikou michi
Sourced some hoses
My non stock battery seemed to be a bit to big and it got really tight against the AC lines so had to used some foam tape there
Everything installed, lots of hosing added but looking pretty discrete
I ran with this setup for a while but the cans didn't seem to catch any oil at all, not even a drop came out from them.
Maybe my engine didn't blow out that much oil or maybe the baffling inside the Saikous wasn't enough, hard to tell since you can't look inside them.
Last edited by flanders; 03-21-2017 at 04:36 AM.
03-12-2016, 02:41 PM
#23
Thread Starter
So the catch tanks didn't seem to do to much difference and I didn't like them rubbing on the AC lines.
My Exide battery had also felt weak for a while so a new one was ordered, a bit smaller and lighter.
With a smaller battery coming in I went on building a new tray from some aluminum sheets, ran it in the glass blaster also.
Ready for paint
Painted and some cushioning added
Went with a no-name AGM battery similar in size and weight of the Oddyssey PC680, a bit higher capacity though and only half the price
While connecting the new battery I had a closer look at the stock ground cable and noticed it's only connection was actually through a few threads in a M6 screw.
Since I'm an electrician this was not acceptable, before moving further though I measured the resistance to 7mΩ (fuel rail was reference).
With a new ground cable and the paint under the shoe cleaned off I got it down to 1,4mΩ
New connection point, greased up of course don't want any rust there
New tray and battery mounted
Guess I had time to clean up the rear calipers and get some new paint on them as well
My Exide battery had also felt weak for a while so a new one was ordered, a bit smaller and lighter.
With a smaller battery coming in I went on building a new tray from some aluminum sheets, ran it in the glass blaster also.
Ready for paint
Painted and some cushioning added
Went with a no-name AGM battery similar in size and weight of the Oddyssey PC680, a bit higher capacity though and only half the price
While connecting the new battery I had a closer look at the stock ground cable and noticed it's only connection was actually through a few threads in a M6 screw.
Since I'm an electrician this was not acceptable, before moving further though I measured the resistance to 7mΩ (fuel rail was reference).
With a new ground cable and the paint under the shoe cleaned off I got it down to 1,4mΩ
New connection point, greased up of course don't want any rust there
New tray and battery mounted
Guess I had time to clean up the rear calipers and get some new paint on them as well
Last edited by flanders; 03-21-2017 at 05:06 AM.
03-12-2016, 03:36 PM
#25
Thread Starter
Yeah those noise limits are really stupid, the HFC took the dB down a bit but added a really annoying drone in the cabin.
Smell went away though which was nice.
I forgot to ad a couple of current measurements I did with the new battery.
Recorded a peak starting current of 460A on a cold start (about 12°C/54°F)
The whole starting sequence took a little over 0,8s until the alternator started charging
Smell went away though which was nice.
I forgot to ad a couple of current measurements I did with the new battery.
Recorded a peak starting current of 460A on a cold start (about 12°C/54°F)
The whole starting sequence took a little over 0,8s until the alternator started charging
Last edited by flanders; 03-21-2017 at 05:07 AM.
03-12-2016, 05:51 PM
#26
You've done so many nice upgrades on this S2000, great work, I love the attention to detail. The results speak for themselves, loving the entire setup. Very nice. 
03-13-2016, 11:45 PM
#27
Thread Starter
Thanks Joey
Before moving on to some more interesting engine mods I'm going to share some of the audio upgrades I've done.
I used 600g of this damping mat in the doors and it actually seemed to make a pretty nice difference
The component speaker I used was Alpine Type-G, not the best but they came with the car so basically free
used some kind of damping foam around the speaker grille
Stock the AP1 didn't come with any rear speakers, in fact there is not even pins in the connector behind the head unit, if you're in the US there is a Metra 71-1721 available that you can use.
Or like I did and find an old ATX power supply and cut of the floppy disk connector
out with the HU and pull out this connector, pins not really the same but it seems to be working
The floppy disk pins were a bit to short and had some movement in/out but whit the connectors pressed together it's tight.
Added some heat shrink tubing around a couple of the stock wires just for support
After lots of measuring I made the cuts in the rear panels and mounted the speakers
Used some sheep wool for damping
Passenger side
Driver side, sorry for bad pics
These are 6.5" speakers and the absolute max you could fit in there.
On the drivers side I had to drop the coat hanger thing to get the speaker magnet further away from the vertical beam behind it.
On the passenger side I didn't do this and had to use a thick rubber spacer behind the speaker.
The Pioneer speakers I used was 46mm deep with a 75mm diameter magnet.
Since my car came with a crappy JVC HU without any steering chalk control I had to change that out as well.
Bought a new JVC KD-X250BT instead which was surprisingly cheap and also an Autoleads PC-X61 steering chalk adaptor.
I know about the great Modifry adapters but this was much cheaper for me here in Europe.
Everything test connected
Up and running
Before moving on to some more interesting engine mods I'm going to share some of the audio upgrades I've done.
I used 600g of this damping mat in the doors and it actually seemed to make a pretty nice difference
The component speaker I used was Alpine Type-G, not the best but they came with the car so basically free
used some kind of damping foam around the speaker grille
Stock the AP1 didn't come with any rear speakers, in fact there is not even pins in the connector behind the head unit, if you're in the US there is a Metra 71-1721 available that you can use.
Or like I did and find an old ATX power supply and cut of the floppy disk connector
out with the HU and pull out this connector, pins not really the same but it seems to be working
The floppy disk pins were a bit to short and had some movement in/out but whit the connectors pressed together it's tight.
Added some heat shrink tubing around a couple of the stock wires just for support
After lots of measuring I made the cuts in the rear panels and mounted the speakers
Used some sheep wool for damping
Passenger side
Driver side, sorry for bad pics
These are 6.5" speakers and the absolute max you could fit in there.
On the drivers side I had to drop the coat hanger thing to get the speaker magnet further away from the vertical beam behind it.
On the passenger side I didn't do this and had to use a thick rubber spacer behind the speaker.
The Pioneer speakers I used was 46mm deep with a 75mm diameter magnet.
Since my car came with a crappy JVC HU without any steering chalk control I had to change that out as well.
Bought a new JVC KD-X250BT instead which was surprisingly cheap and also an Autoleads PC-X61 steering chalk adaptor.
I know about the great Modifry adapters but this was much cheaper for me here in Europe.
Everything test connected
Up and running
Last edited by flanders; 03-21-2017 at 04:46 AM.
03-14-2016, 11:13 PM
#28
Thread Starter
Before season 2015 I just did some regular maintenance and a nice wax.
Then the annual car inspection was passed without any problem
and the first track day also went really well, I had added a little elbow in my tailpipe to cheat the mic a bit as well.
For some reason they didn't do any dB measurements that day though, but I think I would have passed if they did.
For my birthday I got these goodies
Fitment wasn't perfect but I worked it out after some fiddling, total weight save 500g (1.1lbs)
I also did check the total weight of the car, with a full tank and empty seats it was 1220kg (2690lbs)
Then the annual car inspection was passed without any problem
and the first track day also went really well, I had added a little elbow in my tailpipe to cheat the mic a bit as well.
For some reason they didn't do any dB measurements that day though, but I think I would have passed if they did.
For my birthday I got these goodies
Fitment wasn't perfect but I worked it out after some fiddling, total weight save 500g (1.1lbs)
I also did check the total weight of the car, with a full tank and empty seats it was 1220kg (2690lbs)
Last edited by flanders; 03-31-2017 at 08:41 AM.
03-16-2016, 05:17 AM
#29
Thread Starter
In the end of 2015 I found a nicely priced Jenvey ITB kit which I bought.
It had previously been mounted in a F20C powered BMW so it was mostly complete, or at least that was what I thought.
First time in the engine compartment
First thing I noticed when going through everything was that the throttle cable adapter didn't fit.
So I made a new one, the included one pictured bellow had a too small hole for the cable.
The BMW guys seemed to have fitted a different TPS and since the stock one didn't fit I had to order a new adapter from Jenvey.
After a long wait it turned out that they for some reason didn't produce these any more, I did however get the drawings and got a local machine shop make one.
Even thought it was only one off it actually turned out to be cheaper.
Next that was needed was a new fuel pressure regulator, so got this Aeromotive unit
and of course a gauge which I also took the opportunity to calibrate
For vacuum readings I bought the URGE MAP block
New and bigger injectors, Bosch EV14 ~492cc
When trying the new injectors I noticed they were a tiny bit short
So with the included rail mounts as template I started making new ones
After many hours of hand crafting they turned out pretty good
I also bought some braided fuel hose and AN fittings and since the fuel rail had some marks on it I blasted it clean and painted it black
It had previously been mounted in a F20C powered BMW so it was mostly complete, or at least that was what I thought.
First time in the engine compartment
First thing I noticed when going through everything was that the throttle cable adapter didn't fit.
So I made a new one, the included one pictured bellow had a too small hole for the cable.
The BMW guys seemed to have fitted a different TPS and since the stock one didn't fit I had to order a new adapter from Jenvey.
After a long wait it turned out that they for some reason didn't produce these any more, I did however get the drawings and got a local machine shop make one.
Even thought it was only one off it actually turned out to be cheaper.
Next that was needed was a new fuel pressure regulator, so got this Aeromotive unit
and of course a gauge which I also took the opportunity to calibrate
For vacuum readings I bought the URGE MAP block
New and bigger injectors, Bosch EV14 ~492cc
When trying the new injectors I noticed they were a tiny bit short
So with the included rail mounts as template I started making new ones
After many hours of hand crafting they turned out pretty good
I also bought some braided fuel hose and AN fittings and since the fuel rail had some marks on it I blasted it clean and painted it black
Last edited by flanders; 03-31-2017 at 09:19 AM.
