flanders NFR AP1 build
#61
Thread Starter
While waiting to get to the dyno I did some street tuning myself and got it running pretty good.
But earlier this week it was finally time to strap it up to the dynopack
Here is a video on some off the pulls, the sound standing just next to the engine was pretty amazing, glad I used earplugs though because it was LOUD
We had some problems with my injectors maxing out and it didn't seem to help raising the fuel pressure either.
I made a separate thread about that here if anyone have any input: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/115...t-enough-on-na
Other than that everything went nice and smooth.
Not sure how my numbers compare but it definitely feels like a whole different car now compared to stock intake.
You can drive it slow and smooth but it's like you can always feel it's kind of raw and angry, just waiting to explode in VTEC anger
Anyways here is my dyno sheet, 202Nm is 149ft-lb for you non metricals
But earlier this week it was finally time to strap it up to the dynopack
Here is a video on some off the pulls, the sound standing just next to the engine was pretty amazing, glad I used earplugs though because it was LOUD
We had some problems with my injectors maxing out and it didn't seem to help raising the fuel pressure either.
I made a separate thread about that here if anyone have any input: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/115...t-enough-on-na
Other than that everything went nice and smooth.
Not sure how my numbers compare but it definitely feels like a whole different car now compared to stock intake.
You can drive it slow and smooth but it's like you can always feel it's kind of raw and angry, just waiting to explode in VTEC anger
Anyways here is my dyno sheet, 202Nm is 149ft-lb for you non metricals
Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 02:04 PM.
#62
Thread Starter
As I mentioned in previous post I had problems with my fuel pressure dropping, didn't find any particular reason why so I ordered me a new Walbro 255 pump.
Getting the fuel pump out was actually not that hard, here it's ready to go back in with the new Walbro installed
Glad I only got E85 in my tank, much more pleasant odor than gasoline
Before putting the back the "parcel shelf" I replaced the crappy stock sound dampening, old stuff on the floor.
Also put some more dampening on the fuel cap
With the new pump up and running pressure was steady as a rock
Now I obviously had to do some retuning but it was dialed in pretty fast.
After that it was time for the yearly car inspection,
This is always very nervous with a modified car but it went really well and the inspection guy was very nice and interested.
He actually wanted to take some pictures on my engine compartment to show on their facebook page which I of course agreed to.
But I think I got beat by a mint 1987 Audi Quattro instead lol.
Getting the fuel pump out was actually not that hard, here it's ready to go back in with the new Walbro installed
Glad I only got E85 in my tank, much more pleasant odor than gasoline
Before putting the back the "parcel shelf" I replaced the crappy stock sound dampening, old stuff on the floor.
Also put some more dampening on the fuel cap
With the new pump up and running pressure was steady as a rock
Now I obviously had to do some retuning but it was dialed in pretty fast.
After that it was time for the yearly car inspection,
This is always very nervous with a modified car but it went really well and the inspection guy was very nice and interested.
He actually wanted to take some pictures on my engine compartment to show on their facebook page which I of course agreed to.
But I think I got beat by a mint 1987 Audi Quattro instead lol.
Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 02:11 PM.
#63
Thread Starter
A big package came in a few days ago
what could it be
this got me a bit worried
But it was a lovely Recaro Pole position after all
Got me some Tegiwa rails which seems to be the same thing as all the other chinese stuff from BC, M2, PLM, F1 etc.
I know it's been said that they have upgraded the welds but they were still not very convincing, other than that they fitted good though.
Took some time to figure out how to mount the belt buckle but I ended up using a shortened EP3 one mounted like this
Mounted and ready
Really tight fitment
Only done a few short test runs with it so far but wow it makes a huge difference and I wonder why I didn't change it earlier.
So much more support and comfort, only downside is getting in and out but I can live with that.
I weighted stock seat to compare and I almost lost 10kg (22lbs) now which was a bit more than expected.
Living with ITB's you really want an easy tuning and monitoring solution so I got me this cheap chinese 8" tablet running Win10.
Here is how my kmanager display is currently configured
It's mounted using these super strong magnets clipped on to the air vent.
Seems to be holding it very firm and I think it might be enough on a track as well (well maybe not if you spin it over the curbs)
what could it be
this got me a bit worried
But it was a lovely Recaro Pole position after all
Got me some Tegiwa rails which seems to be the same thing as all the other chinese stuff from BC, M2, PLM, F1 etc.
I know it's been said that they have upgraded the welds but they were still not very convincing, other than that they fitted good though.
Took some time to figure out how to mount the belt buckle but I ended up using a shortened EP3 one mounted like this
Mounted and ready
Really tight fitment
Only done a few short test runs with it so far but wow it makes a huge difference and I wonder why I didn't change it earlier.
So much more support and comfort, only downside is getting in and out but I can live with that.
I weighted stock seat to compare and I almost lost 10kg (22lbs) now which was a bit more than expected.
Living with ITB's you really want an easy tuning and monitoring solution so I got me this cheap chinese 8" tablet running Win10.
Here is how my kmanager display is currently configured
It's mounted using these super strong magnets clipped on to the air vent.
Seems to be holding it very firm and I think it might be enough on a track as well (well maybe not if you spin it over the curbs)
Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 02:17 PM.
#65
Thread Starter
whybshy: Thanks man and I'll keep that in mind lol
Well haven't done much new, excepts greasing up my shifter fork and my release bearing guide, both bone dry.
This did wonders with my heavy and sticky clutch pedal.
Picture before greasing
While I had the car on jack stands I decided since I'm already to loud on tracks around here, why not skip that stupid cat (actually a pretty nice Berk HFC).
Kind of hated it since the day I installed it because of how much drone it added, well now I installed the Invidia test pipe again instead.
So much nicer and quieter inside the cabin now!
Car feels much more responsive and I think I picked up 6-7whp at around 8k rpm and above as well.
But the best part, it breathes fire now
Not that spectacular in real time (around the 1:23 mark) but here is the video (there is a small fire pop in the beginning as well)
Here is a video I've recorded previously when I had the HFC installed if you like to compare the sound
Well haven't done much new, excepts greasing up my shifter fork and my release bearing guide, both bone dry.
This did wonders with my heavy and sticky clutch pedal.
Picture before greasing
While I had the car on jack stands I decided since I'm already to loud on tracks around here, why not skip that stupid cat (actually a pretty nice Berk HFC).
Kind of hated it since the day I installed it because of how much drone it added, well now I installed the Invidia test pipe again instead.
So much nicer and quieter inside the cabin now!
Car feels much more responsive and I think I picked up 6-7whp at around 8k rpm and above as well.
But the best part, it breathes fire now
Not that spectacular in real time (around the 1:23 mark) but here is the video (there is a small fire pop in the beginning as well)
Here is a video I've recorded previously when I had the HFC installed if you like to compare the sound
Last edited by flanders; 03-19-2017 at 01:11 PM.
#66
Interesting read,been thinking about a TP
The Ohlins are something else,love mine,need to have a go at my front compliance over winter and get the Geo correct,they are perished and also seized at front..
Not sure about ball type maybe go Mugen compliance oem, as its just a road car,got a few bolts ect ready to replace.
want to try and free them<again> in situ first & need to have a go with a hammer gun before the saw treatment.
Top work
The Ohlins are something else,love mine,need to have a go at my front compliance over winter and get the Geo correct,they are perished and also seized at front..
Not sure about ball type maybe go Mugen compliance oem, as its just a road car,got a few bolts ect ready to replace.
want to try and free them<again> in situ first & need to have a go with a hammer gun before the saw treatment.
Top work
#67
Thread Starter
Long time since I've updated now and since then dropbox have destroyed all my picture links, I will fix that eventually.
I've been wanting to change my front bumper for a long time but it never seems to happen so in the meantime I got a cheap ebay lip.
Fitment was pretty good
With some paint and a weatherstrip
Then I got this nice big box
With some very nicely packaged pipes
Milltek dual
Got it mostly to keep things a bit more quiet, seemed pretty well made but unfortunately not the perfect tig welds you might expect from the price tag though.
Kind of ugly inside the collector
Compared to my T1R after some cleanup
Collector cleaned up as well
Warming up and looking for leaks, got the slip joints tight after using some exhaust paste
I really liked the ability to easily change exhaust tip, here it is with included tips
and here with a cheap Chinese turndown I got from ebay, thinking I might use this on track to keep it even quieter (if needed). We got a really stupid 95dB limit here in Sweden.
I've been wanting to change my front bumper for a long time but it never seems to happen so in the meantime I got a cheap ebay lip.
Fitment was pretty good
With some paint and a weatherstrip
Then I got this nice big box
With some very nicely packaged pipes
Milltek dual
Got it mostly to keep things a bit more quiet, seemed pretty well made but unfortunately not the perfect tig welds you might expect from the price tag though.
Kind of ugly inside the collector
Compared to my T1R after some cleanup
Collector cleaned up as well
Warming up and looking for leaks, got the slip joints tight after using some exhaust paste
I really liked the ability to easily change exhaust tip, here it is with included tips
and here with a cheap Chinese turndown I got from ebay, thinking I might use this on track to keep it even quieter (if needed). We got a really stupid 95dB limit here in Sweden.
#68
Thread Starter
Next on the to do list was to get those lovely ITB's to breath a bit colder air.
I looked on lot's of airbox options and measured even more, it's not easy to judge how much room you got when the hood is closed.
But I made this cardboard thing to get a bit better estimate.
I knew it would be very tight but should be possible, so I got this relatively cheap abs airbox from Pipercross and test fitted it.
CT Icebox in place as well just to give you a rough idea on the setup
Then I tried closing the hood. Yeah I guess my measurements was a bit off lol
Not much else to do than to get the Dremel out, I've previously planned to replace my crappy hood latches to lockable Aerocatch ones so marked those up as well.
First cut done
Then the hood frame
Test fitting, you might notice the airbox opening is slightly squashed. I used a heat gun and did some modifying
Had to cut a bit more around the hood prop area and also some overall cleanup, but this is how it looked like when finished
Thought about painting the gray area but I figured it might not look much better so I just put a suitable sticker there instead.
If you look closely you might notice some grayish adhesive on a few places around the edges, I did this remove the flimsiness
Hood closed with newly installed Aerocatch locks
I looked on lot's of airbox options and measured even more, it's not easy to judge how much room you got when the hood is closed.
But I made this cardboard thing to get a bit better estimate.
I knew it would be very tight but should be possible, so I got this relatively cheap abs airbox from Pipercross and test fitted it.
CT Icebox in place as well just to give you a rough idea on the setup
Then I tried closing the hood. Yeah I guess my measurements was a bit off lol
Not much else to do than to get the Dremel out, I've previously planned to replace my crappy hood latches to lockable Aerocatch ones so marked those up as well.
First cut done
Then the hood frame
Test fitting, you might notice the airbox opening is slightly squashed. I used a heat gun and did some modifying
Had to cut a bit more around the hood prop area and also some overall cleanup, but this is how it looked like when finished
Thought about painting the gray area but I figured it might not look much better so I just put a suitable sticker there instead.
If you look closely you might notice some grayish adhesive on a few places around the edges, I did this remove the flimsiness
Hood closed with newly installed Aerocatch locks
Last edited by flanders; 03-20-2017 at 01:44 PM.
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S1 S2 (03-21-2017)
#70
Thread Starter
Thanks, I'll keep it coming
I had to reroute the fuel return to keep it away from the airbox
Not sure how much difference this would do but I changed the aluminium mounting bracket for my intake temp sensor to plastic
Then I had a look on my horn and wondered why it was sitting right in front of the airflow
Much better
No stock hood latch so lots of room up here (when putting back the air diverter plastic I actually had to move it to the other side to get a better fitment)
Did a bit of wire tucking, these cables normally goes on the outside of the metal frame in front of the radiator.
I routed them under the metal frame instead, you can see the horn installed here and also a modified plastic air diverter (had to cut a bit out)
To make room for this air duct
Fitted the duct using one of the stock screw holes in the grille and also one on the side, you might notice the metal support bracket behind it
I used a 2.5" hose and it was very tight to get it through
The wire tuck I did before really helped
I really struggled to get a good hose for the intake, got wrong versions sent on multiple occasions.
I wanted to get a dual layer hose but the nice version with smooth orange inside that I got was only 3.5"
The crappy looking one above left this mess when I tried to force it on
Here is a better close up on the inside of the airbox and the shape of the mouth, it was nice and round 4" in the beginning but now slightly flatter but I guess the area is about the same
For now I ended up using the Pipercross included single layer 4" hose instead, hopefully it will hold up
I had to reroute the fuel return to keep it away from the airbox
Not sure how much difference this would do but I changed the aluminium mounting bracket for my intake temp sensor to plastic
Then I had a look on my horn and wondered why it was sitting right in front of the airflow
Much better
No stock hood latch so lots of room up here (when putting back the air diverter plastic I actually had to move it to the other side to get a better fitment)
Did a bit of wire tucking, these cables normally goes on the outside of the metal frame in front of the radiator.
I routed them under the metal frame instead, you can see the horn installed here and also a modified plastic air diverter (had to cut a bit out)
To make room for this air duct
Fitted the duct using one of the stock screw holes in the grille and also one on the side, you might notice the metal support bracket behind it
I used a 2.5" hose and it was very tight to get it through
The wire tuck I did before really helped
I really struggled to get a good hose for the intake, got wrong versions sent on multiple occasions.
I wanted to get a dual layer hose but the nice version with smooth orange inside that I got was only 3.5"
The crappy looking one above left this mess when I tried to force it on
Here is a better close up on the inside of the airbox and the shape of the mouth, it was nice and round 4" in the beginning but now slightly flatter but I guess the area is about the same
For now I ended up using the Pipercross included single layer 4" hose instead, hopefully it will hold up