Earlysport

Stock seats are too heavy, and being held in well and therefore light on the wheel is important to me, so I've fitted a pair of carbon Pole Positions. I made up my own mounts using a pair of sliders I already had and some 4.5mm flat bar. The passenger seat is fixed.



And a quick shot of the semi completed interior. I re-carpeted myself, trimmed the armrest in suede, and have deleted all airbags and the airbag computer. Quite a bit of weight saved. The steering wheel will be changed to a Mugen with a spacer.



I also did the Steering torque sensor electronics swap ( new electrical part on my existing torque sensor) and was finally able to complete the steering centre reset procedure, so I'm confident my steering is now sorted. I'll drive it this weekend to confirm.

Cheers

Earlysport

Earlysport

While this car is really a track car in disguise, I will actually daily it so I need some tunes. Again lightweight must prevail. I've fitted a pair of CDT carbon midbass in the doors, with just a little dynamat to dampen the immediate area. I quite like Aurasound Whisper 2" wideband drivers, so went for an A Pillar re-work to mount them, Keeping them up high is preferred particularly with the top down. I'm using an Alpine car play head unit with time alignment so all speakers will be aligned for the driver.

Mocking up the desired location and aim in the A Pillar



Fibreglass and filler



I've got a decent amount of suede in the car so decided to flock these to match. Trimming them due to the shape would have also been really difficult. Here they are complete and installed. I've also trimmed the airbag cover panel in suede -it might improve the sound a little and looks good to me.



And driver side. Also note i've now fitted my Mugen steering wheel with a 50mm spacer.



Cheers

Earlysport

Earlysport

No Stereo system is complete without a sub, but again my challenge is how to not add weight. I'm leaving the spare and tools out of the car for all but the longest trip, so the goal is keep the weight at less than the spare and tools. I've chosen an entry level JL 12" specifically due to it's light weight, and decided to use the factory well as my enclosure. a 16mm stepped MDF top panel forms the baffle and a location for the amp to mount. I've got a 5 channel Class D Soundstream which is light, compact, and let's me run the system full active.

The baffle needed to be assembled in the car as it's a neat fit under the step of the factory well, and then it's glassed into place to seal it. My power wire runs under the car in the OEM wire channel and comes up into the well.



The box is braced to the floor of the well like so..



If I need to glass the well to strengthen it I can. I think it will be OK. This isn't an IASCA car, but I do want it to sound good.

The double Din head unit will go in the factory location, obviously ditching the OEM radio door and surround for a custom one.

Cheers,

Earlysport

Modifry Products

Hey, I recognize those drivers! A while back I sold a kit to install those drivers in place of the OEM roll hoop speakers found on the later model S2000s. They were a big improvement over stock, but unfortunately a lot of work and the drivers themselves were pricey so I stopped making them, though I still get inquiries about that project every couple months. Aura and Tang-Band are two of my favorite speaker manufacturers, they do some very innovative things with small drivers.

Earlysport

The whispers look pretty cool I think too. I had a pair of CDT HD2 widebands in my last car and they were nice, but needed a lot more EQ. I've got a Mosconi DSP I may fit in the S2000 too if the Alpine's built in EQ can't get the result I want.

Good audio is a must even if I feel like most of the time I'm listening to podcasts on my commute! (DWA :-))

Cheers

Earlysport

Earlysport

I thought for a while about a different front bar, as the factory AP1 bar was in pretty poor shape and I hate repairing plastic. I really like the Amuse bar but they're really pricey here in OZ. I ended up picking up one of these



The Buddyclub front bar that is. I liked it overall and it's really light, however that enormous front lip had to go. I sectioned a full 2.5" off it, leaving a more reasonable lip and more suitable to a DD and driveways etc.
Here's the lip after first slicing it up..



The front section I ended up kind of inserting into the main part to create a really strong lip and just under half the size it originally was. I then glassed it all up and ended up spending way too long glassing
in pieces and using filler to create a decent shape to the edges (where the vertical extension originally is).




I also ended up filling in the fake vent depressions on each side - more fibreglass and more sanding... I also had to do a lot of work on fitment - it's still not great to be honest but it's acceptable for a DD / track car.



I ended up putting a lot of hours into this bar, but at least it's now a unique piece and I think will look pretty good. I'm going to use the outer vents as brake vents, the left hand inner vent will feed the air intake,
and I'll cap the other inner vent with a piece of carbon. Not sure if I'll paint the lip body color (black) or do it in flat black. I can decide later.

Cheers,

Earlysport

qinbill

I am in Sydney as well. Amazed by your build.

Earlysport

Some more updates. Firstly I thought I'd make a list of basic service items that for me are part of the used car ownership process, with some unique to the S2000. I have done the following;

Valve lash adjustment
RainH8R valve cover mod
Diff / Gearbox / and engine oil
New primary O2 sensor
New IAC
New spark plugs
Motul RBF Brake fluid
Headlight height adjustment

Now onto the update. As mentioned before I wanted to fit a double DIN Alpine carplay unit in the factory location, so starting with the OEM opening-door part and doing a lot of cutting and rebuilding, and then covering in flock for a suede like feel I ended up with this;



Which looks like this installed in the car;



I probably need some steering wheel controls for real convenience or maybe the modifry adpator for the OEM radio controls.

Just a note that this particular Alpine unit is pretty shallow (no CD mech), but probably needed the removal of the airbag computer to fit well. I'd already taken the airbags out. I also opened up a slot into the tunnel a little to ensure my RCA leads etc were not underneath the unit at all, allowing the rear of it to sit on the tunnel for a slight upward cant.

While maybe odd while I'm talking about a stereo, weight saving is really important to me. I thought It might be worth me listing what I've done to save weight on this build. The replacement of the OEM stereo (and opening door trim) with the Alpine double DIN did actually save me weight, I've added weight back with my sub baffle and amp, however chose the entry level JL 12" as it was the lightest decent woofer I could find. Anyway I've removed or replaced the following to cut weight;

Spare wheel and jack and tools
All factory sound deadening and carpet with lightweight mix of backed and unbacked carpet, and yoga mat underlay.
Factory seats replaced with carbon Recaro SPG's and custom mounts (fixed on passenger side)
J's carbon hood
3rd brake light replaced with carbon Tamon lip (probably nets to the same weight)
TE37 wheels (again probably same as OEM)
Tein Circuit Master all aluminium body coilovers
Air pump delete
Amuse R1 Ti single exhaust with test pipe
Cut out lower rear bumper
Removal of all airbags and computer
Replace OEM steering wheel with Mugen
Replace OEM airbox with custom 4" CAI
Remove OEM heat shield
Replace front bar with buddyclub version (definitely lighter)
Replace factory rear subframe brace with custom AL piece
Replace OEM front upper arms with tubular adjustable arms
Remove front and rear brake heat sheilds
Remove factory CD stacker and wiring
Remove factory hood prop

Not sure how much weight I've saved but I will put it on some corner weight scales at some point soon when I'm ready to finalize alignment Speaking of alignment I've done a street alignment to the following specs;

Front camber -2', Toe 0
Rear camber -1.6' Toe 2mm in each side.

I string my cars to do alignments like so;



You can also see that I've finished painting the car, and it's OK. I will probably colour sand and maybe shoot a flow coat over the whole thing after giving it some months to settle. I'll take some decent pics when I completely finish the build but for now here's a quick side shot. Remember daily driver and track car hence a usable and performance oriented ride height..



Cheers,

Earlysport