manystyles

Hmmm, why buy someone else's vision/build? I'd say be patient, find a stock, lower mileage AP2 example.

I found mine, with about 65,000 miles on it for $18k.

jr94513

If you have a heavily tracked AP1 and havent upgraded your banjo bolts you may be encountering some major oil issues and possible compression loss...

manystyles

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/5989651502.html
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/5987052680.html
2004 Rio / Rio/New Indy Yellow Pearl - $16,500

Zygrene

Valid point, but one of the reasons I'd rather not track my NSX is because it's stock. It needs a host of upgrades before it will handle the way I want, and same with a stock S2000 to a lesser extent. The mods done to the yellow AP1 are pretty much what I would do, and the fact that all the work was done by Ballade in the past 2 years is reassuring. Seems like all the car really needs now is a rollbar.

Here is a list of the other mods, taken from the maintenance records:
RPF1 17x9 +45, RS3 255/40/17, Project Mu CR F/R, Ballade air filter, 2 NSK wheel bearings, 2 wheel hubs, 2 used axles, 1 Ballade axle spacers
<!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->Ballade throttle body, Ballade intake arm, Ballade custom coilovers (believed to be 16k/16k)
<!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->Ballade clutch kit, lightweight flywheel, Buddy Club ball joints, new clutch master cylinder

Details on the Ballade head:
<!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->Supertech valves, valve guides, valve springs, Honda head studs, spark plugs, thermostat, coolant, head gasket, Ballade intake, throttle body, timing gear, compression (210, 215, 230, 180), leakdown (20%, 35%, 5%, 30%), valve job

I'm planning to call Ballade to ask about the car and get a compression/leakdown test done. If it all goes well, might make a deal. Anything else I should be looking for?

I read somewhere that the banjo bolts usually aren't an issue unless the car is driven above 105mph. Not sure how this claim is backed up, though.

All very nice but will require another 3-5k to set the car up the way I want.

Zygrene

Valid point, but one of the reasons I'd rather not track my NSX is because it's stock. It needs a host of upgrades before it will handle the way I want, and same with a stock S2000 to a lesser extent. The mods done to the yellow AP1 are pretty much what I would do, and the fact that all the work was done by Ballade in the past 2 years is reassuring. Seems like all the car really needs now is a rollbar.

Here is a list of the other mods, taken from the maintenance records:
RPF1 17x9 +45, RS3 255/40/17, Project Mu CR F/R, Ballade air filter, 2 NSK wheel bearings, 2 wheel hubs, 2 used axles, 1 Ballade axle spacers
Ballade throttle body, Ballade intake arm, Ballade custom coilovers (believed to be 16k/16k)
Ballade clutch kit, lightweight flywheel, Buddy Club ball joints, new clutch master cylinder

Details on the Ballade head build, which was done after compression/leakdown tests showed the results below:
Supertech valves, valve guides, valve springs, Honda head studs, spark plugs, thermostat, coolant, head gasket, Ballade intake, throttle body, timing gear, compression (210, 215, 230, 180), leakdown (20%, 35%, 5%, 30%), valve job

I'm planning to call Ballade to ask about the car and get a compression/leakdown test done. If it all goes well, might make a deal. Anything else I should be looking for?

I read somewhere that the banjo bolts usually aren't an issue unless the car is driven above 105mph. Not sure how this claim is backed up, though.

All very nice but will require another 3-5k to set the car up the way I want.

Jub

I would definitely want to have the compression/leakdown tests run again. Cyl #4 is a bit concerning with the low # and history of the banjo bolt issue. In terms of explaining the banjo bolt issue, I will attempt to write out my interpretation of regurgitated info from this forum as I researched it a bit while making my purchase. I believe the mph theory came from Honda of Europe in the mid 2000s to explain why some regions seemed to be experiencing the issue and others not. I believe they did some form of compensation/fix for people in specific areas with cars affected. They saved money by that MPH figure assuming that nobody in the US (and others) would be running at those speeds legally and they are not responsible for closed course failures. It seemed that people experiencing issues here, while the cars were new enough for Honda to be concerned, were those that modified the engine and/or tracked the car. All of that being said, my interpretation of the issue is that it may have an effect on all cars but most will not experience a catastrophic failure unless they are strained harder than "normal use". Those that experienced the issue seemed to be those sustaining significant strain (RPM's) over an extended period of time. Thus, the MPH figure seemed to be correlation more than causation IMO. Sustaining 105 MPH+ on the autobahn will run substantially higher RPM's for a longer period of time than what most of these cars experienced with their first owners in the US. I believe that running 75 MPH in third gear on a daily commute would produce similar results.

Take my conclusion with a grain of salt, as I have no personal experience with this nor an engineering background. I just researched it and drew my own conclusion. Since I was planning to autox my car and maybe track it, I strongly preferred to not buy any VIN potentially effected by the banjo bolts. An 03 of similar condition to an older car did not command much of a price premium and was worth it for peace of mind. That being said, I would not turn down the right deal strictly because of the "issue". Especially if it has good compression/leakdown. I would just account for the price of adding banjo bolts to my purchasing decision.

NSX7

I currently own 07 S2000, 92 NSX, 98 M3, and an 05 M3 Comp. pkg. - all manual

For what you are looking for, I would start with an E36 M3 - great car

This is my second one - I have always been a Honda fan - but there is something about the E36 M3 that makes it feel very special in daily driving as well as occasional track days. Once you address certain issues, you won't have to worry about it for the long term - the one I have now had all issues addressed and also came with a bonus (BBK, 18" wheels, and revised suspension) at no extra cost over a non-modified one.

The E36 is better for the track than the E46 imo due to weight - which I definitely feel when I drive both the E46 and E36

as for the 996 911, I owned an 02 for a year - great driving experience, but even if the IMS was addressed, there are other risks in the engine and it is $25K for a replacement engine - and that's why I sold it after one year (LN Engineering has a huge writeup on all the engine issues)

hope that helps

Bullwings

I'd actually be in favor of purchasing a track prepped vehicle if that is the exact intended purpose. If it has all of the maintenance records and passes a pre-purchase inspection, then that means it's ready to take to the track purchased as is. Track cars don't last very long when they're not maintained, so if it runs and passes a thorough PPI...

You generally pay less for a lightly prepped track/street car because "no one wants someone's else vision/build". I say, take the discount, part out aftermarket pieces that you don't like, keep what you do like, and go buy what you want with the savings in price difference and the proceeds from part out.


As for banjo bolts, do it, and put in a baffle/anti-slosh plate while the pan is pulled. If it's really going to be a track car, save your motor - both items are cheap compared to a used motor and the labor needed to put it in. If you're too lazy or don't have enough money to do those items, then you'll be too lazy/poor for a replacement motor... Gotta pay to play.

Edit: missed that.
I agree with everyone else's concern on that.