Tehk

I have seen a few pictures of energy suspension based mounts used on LSX swaps, but I am having trouble finding where the hell I can buy them.

My plan is to turbo the car, but with the rigid import muscle mount that will be a little tough. V8s2000 isnt the most bumping forum so i figured I'd try here first.

edit: Solved. Hit up Jeremy_ls2k on instagram. Photos of my build bellow.

Luder94

http://www.v8s2000.com/forums/showth...e-**-Updated**

These are those mounts I think you were looking for.

CoolGuy094

Old thread, but a company called Alloywerks was another option for non-rigid mounts. They made a welded steel plate bracket that mounted to the LS engine mounts bolts (similar to the one posted above). These mount plates mated up to the Hasport engine mounts for the F20/22. I'm not sure if Alloywerks still makes them, or is even still in business. From what I understood it was just one guy making these.

I've seen one swap successfully using them, and two sets for sale on the FB groups; I bought one of these two sets. My swap is still in progress but the motor is about to go in for the final time. They are designed to still use the rest of the ImportMuscle swap kit including their transmission mount solution, though I heard that Alloywerks was also selling a trans mount solution to go along with their engine mounts.

There are several considerations that come along with using these Alloywerks/Hasport mounts:

The Hooker cast manifold headers will work; OEM manifolds will not work, nor will the Flyin' Miata tubular headers.

The OEM LS starter will not work, even the slightly smaller one from the C6 Corvettes as mentioned in the Import Muscle instructions. I tried a Summit Racing mini-starter but even that was too close for comfort. I ended up with the starter from a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 with the 5.3L V8 engine (part number for the one I bought from Rock Auto was 106494). The starter is tiny and it mounts up directly to the LS and has enough pinion gear travel to work perfect with the LS1.

You will also need to purchase a flexible oil dipstick like the one from Lokar, part number is ED-5008. I haven't fitted this yet but I'm semi-confident it will work. The OEM dip stick interferes with the Alloywerks brackets. You could potentially drill a clearance hole in the brackets, but I didn't want to mess with it.

Edit - I found these photos of the mount brackets.

Luder94

Any pics of the engine installed with headers with this mount?

Ultimately, I'd like to have another motor mount solution. I'm using the IM mount for now....but as I build the motor, I'd like something that will offer some dampening and isn't hanging the motor off the heads.

I did end up buying the Summit mini starter. Wish I knew about the 5.3L starter. Damn.

CoolGuy094

All I have right now are overhead shots. I'll try to remember to get some underneath shots showing how the Hooker mani's fit with these mounts.

tehlonz

AFAIK , alloywerks is still around. Just needs to be contacted directly, I've purchased stuff from his IG account.

Tehk

Update! I actually purchased the alloywerks mounts before referenced here. Funny coincidence, but so far so good! Definately would recommend jeremy_ls2k's alloywerks mounts.

I actually bought the illfab parts first but he stopped responding for a few months so I disputed it on paypal suddenly they shipped. They were similair to the alloywerks but the welds were in the way of the bolt holes and on locations that should sit flat. You could tell he wasnt doing the swap and had no idea what positions were important to hold. Guy was a total asshole. Former partner with the above, apparently till it went sour. The logo took away all strength from the mounts. Turns out he is the dude behind Peakboost....

PMing coolguy to see how far back he was able to get the mounts

Here are some photos. its easier to see the mounts since I cut off 17 inches of the front frame rails.

tehlonz

Those look sweet. Happy Jeremy did you right!

CoolGuy094

That trans mount is beefy as hell! LOL.

Mock up position looks good. I will recommend getting the steering rack in there and slapping on all the essential accessories onto the motor (particularly the alternator) to check for clearance issues between all of them. The alternator to the steering rack was a big one that may have been the reason we had to shift the motor back a little further on the motor mount plates, resulting in the clearance issues with the LS3 starter.

So what's the story on why you chopped your frame rails off? What are the ninja star looking welded pieces on the end of the frame rails? This intrigues me.

Tehk

The alternator won't be a issue. Putting that up top by the heads.

The reason for the frame rail removal was to replace it with a one piece detachable hoop that holds the headlights('street car...'), radiator, intercooler, and bumper.

It will give me tons more room for the big single or big twin turbos. At very least a s480. The motor is already a 416cu L99 without vvt. I am using vbanded trailblazer manifolds which fit great without the flange. Unfortunately you can't run a fbody alternator.

Oh and the ninja stars are actually brackets for the tube front to attach. I actually saw Skinnies fox body in person and the access he has with the removable front section inspired this. Also the radbul miata has a similar setup