RedLineS2k10

This is the third rebuild of this motor. Please feel free to skip to more recent pages for updates.

Parts for motor

Mahle powerpack h22 pistons-Done
2mm headgasket
Debating going steel sleeves or not.
Basic rebuild parts (bearings, studs, etc)








Hey guys, this has been an 8 months project and going. Lots of info below so u can just skip and look at the pics if u want :-)..Thanks for looking!

Formerly owned 02 AP1-Intake,exhaust
The car-1994 Nissan Silvia Vert

Power-
F20C powerplant with f24c stroker. k24 crankshaft, h22 rods.
Stock head, Brian Crower Stage 3 exhaust cam
Garret Gt2860rs (Disco Potato)
STR log manifold
Tial 38mm wastegate
Custom aluminum 3.5" exhaust
GReddy Trust Titananium muffler
GReddy Trust Intercooler and custom elbows
Setrab 23 pass oil cooler
Setrab 8 pass power steering cooler
GReddy oil catch can
Custom Intercooler piping
Custom overflow tank
C&R surge tank
C&R dual pass radiator
Aem adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Stock fuel Rail
AEM 3.5 Bar Map Sensor
RC 750 Injectors
Custom aluminum radiator piping
Okada Coil packs
NGK spark plugs
AEM EMS (10-951) series 1 plug n play w/ map trim switch
Blitz dual SBC boost controller

Whats holding the power-
Stock Ap1 transmission for taller gear ratio
ACT Pro Lite flighwheel, 6 puck racing clutch
Custom aluminum driveshaft
Custom motor and transmission mounts
Apexi EXV Coilovers
Full race bushings all the way around car (dont know the brand)
Peak Performance suspension components on the car
Inner Tie Rod
Tension Rods
Toe Rods
Upper link
Camber arm

Cosmetic & ICE
Origin Front Bumper
Origin Rear Bumper
Julius Racing Side Skirts
Origin 30mm front fenders
Origin 50mm Rear fenders
Work Emotion 18x9.5 with Falkens
MB battle wheels (rear) 18x9.5 with falken
Custom Roll cage
Project MU 4 piston 4 pad front brakes (5 lug conversion)
Sparco Evo Seats (both)
Sparco 5 point racing harness
Sparco Wheel w/ quick realease
STRI guages (oil pressure,water temp,boost, rpm (not hooked up), AEM wide band, and im missing one i think?
Custom shift bracket w/ custom shifter


So i got the car, and there were a few things that needed to be done. New manifold, some cleaning and re-painting. The car ran funny when i got it, and he had said the injectors might be clogged. I took the car to be tuned and we were having issues on the dyno, so i came back home and was stumped as to what it could be. So i finally pull the injectors and out falls aluminum shavings from when the fuel filter was flared. I mean metal was dumping out of these injectors. I tried my best to get what i could out and out them back in, and presto the motor sounded amazing!.
I sent the injectors off to RC, and of what i saw next kinda blew my mind lol. The report they sent me back was quite astounding. I didnt have one injector running at its full potentinal. One was dripping and another was just clogged. So they came back within days and headed back to the dyno. For the first time ever i heard this motor hit the rev limiter and i was stoked!! I made well over 300tq instantly. As we began to progress further and further through the tune, we went for the numbers pull and the problems started. The boost was turned up, and BLAM!! out shoots the dipstick straight out of the valve cover, and sprays oil EVERYWHERE. We shut the motir down and thank god nothing caught on fire, and let things cool for a second. We start back up and smoke is pouring from the catch can. We check spark plugs, and oil and what not, and then do the compression test. Needless to say i didnt even clear 170psi on any cylinde.. The highest i hit was maybe 160psi.
So i tow the car back home and began the process of taking it all apart thinking my rings are just fried and the motor is prolly shot. We start pulling pistons and to my amazement the rings are actually intact, but here come chunks of ringlands tinging on the ground as we pull the pistons out.

At this time i am both horrified and glad all at once. The reason...I had not a clue waht type of condition this motor was in. I mean lets face it ,its a drift car and the guy who drove it was a mad man behind the wheel with then nick name "big smoke" lol. Now with all of this taken apart, i now know what needs to be done and what the end result will be. As most of you have seen, i was trying to sell this motor thinking the cylinder walls are done. Well i had 2 machine shops check it out and i was told to rebuilding it would be fine because of the miles this motor will see.
I have one tiny nick in cylinder two im worried about but fixing that is in the process. i believe a little bit of sanding or a file will fix it, its not even to the point of catching a nail on it.
So the pistons, rings, bearings, head gasket, and a few other things are being ordered tomorrow
Im going with stock again, because 1) the price and 2) im running very little boost and the car will be driven 2-4 times a month.
The re-build is costing around $600 and thats for basically everything.
Here some pictures for you guys and will continue posting as the build progresses.

Things still to be done
Tubbing the fenders, these 18x9.5 are rubbing
Modifing steering knuckles for more angle (not for a while atleast)
Paint the car (white)
Re-paint rool cage and wheels
Hydraulic handbrake



More pics to come guys. Thanks for looking!!!

camuman

subscribed

Suzuka_Joe

i followed this build in the magazine it was featured in. I hope you get back to its glory!!

MugenRioS2k

nice tq #s

RedLineS2k10

so i had a bit of a hickup just now. Ive never rebuilt a motor, let alone a motor with hybrid parts in it lol. I was ordering the parts on the phone and went to order the rod bearings, and they said which thickness do you need? ummm thickess? Apparently theres a number on the crankshaft and/or block that i need to look at, then look that number up to see how it corolates to the rod bearing?

Any thoughts guys? Sorry for the newb question

m R g S r

letters on the block numbers on the crank. i will try and find the page of the pdf that has the chart for sizing main/rod bearings. numbers also on the side of the rods

m R g S r

here found it:

RedLineS2k10

This site is awesome!! Thanks so much!! Now heres my question...
Because the block is an f20c and the crank is a k24 is there going to be an issue with these numbers or will the correlate no matter what?? Thanks again!!

RedLineS2k10

BBBCC is whats located on the girdle and BBBB is located on the cylinder section

I just checked the bearings and theres 2 different colors on the sides
3 of the pistons have green bearings, but a couple of the bearings have different numbers. for instance of the green bearings has the code d5j-d.other ones have d5j-e and d5j-f..Cylinder one i believe is a yellow one with the coded D2h D..Any thoughts guys? i tried googling this but havent had any luck

I think ive answered my own question but cant get this wrong obviously lol..Im ASSUMING i need 3 green and 1 yellow from what im seeing on my end

siadam

You need to be careful, if you have a different block/rods/crank that won't make a bit of difference.

You will need to manually measure and clearance EACH rod and main for that motor.

I used these video's made by Jeff Evans a couple yrs ago to build my first motor.

There are several parts, I suggest you watch each one.

Part 1:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpy_By5aIxM [/media]&feature=PlayList&p=31E8DF6312641935&playnext_from =PL&playnext=1&index=24