OE oil fill analysis....Accord V6

I could not find one for the S2000, but here is one for an Accord V6 with factory-fill - owner went 7000 miles mostly highway based on the recommendation in the owner's manual about the break-in oil.

Note the high levels of moly - that confirms what we have been saying about Honda's OE fills, and supports my contention to use something like MaxLife Engine Protector or Mr. Moly Break-in if you are going to change the break-in oil sooner.

Looking at this, I am more than ever convinced that waiting to change out the factory oil is not such a great idea. The silicon level is high, so either there is contamination from the sealers, the mfg line, or a faulty air filter. The copper wear rates are high also - this is not uncommon on Honda V-6's, but it would take several short OCI's to flush out that amount of debris to make me comfortable.

Iron - 92
Chromium - 6
Lead - 13
Copper - 227 abnormal
Tin - 22
Aluminum - 11
Nickel - 0
Silver - 0
Silicon - 77 abnormal
Boron - 12
Sodium - 15
Magnesium - 22
Calcium - 2393
Barium - 13
Phosphorus - 890
Zinc - 1288
Molybdenum - 382
Titanium - 0
Vanadium - 0
Potassium - 0
Fuel <1
7.48 cSt
Water = 0%
Soot/solids - N/A
Glycol - NEG
TBN - 2.07
Oxidation - 20.0
Nitration - 17.0

Since you've been so helpful to the S2000 community, here's the Blackstone oil analysis data from my car, a 2003. The oil was changed at 2,274 miles just after the Mr. Moly break-in treatment arrived . Castrol 10W 30 oil plus the treatment is now in my car and I plan to change it again at around 5k miles.

The report stated that the high levels of copper, aluminum and silicon were consistent with a new engine in the process of break-in. The high silicon levels could be from sealers and sand-casted parts. The Universal Averages are for engines that have more than 4665 miles of use, so it will be interesting to see what happens over the next couple of analyses. The oil viscosity was consistent with a 5W 30 grade.

Element - Amount in my car (Universal Average) [Amount in the Accord]
Iron - 10 (9) [92]
Chromium - 1 (1) [6]
Lead - 4 (5) [13]
Copper - 25 (4) [227]
Tin - 1 (0) [22]
Aluminum - 17 (3) [11]
Nickel - 1 (0) [0]
Silver - 0 (0) [0]
Silicon - 42 (8) [77]
Boron - 101 (53) [12]
Sodium - 6 (6) [15]
Magnesium - 5 (263) [22]
Calcium - 1722 (2511) [2393]
Barium - 4 (0) [13]
Phosphorus - 725 (830) [890]
Zinc - 911 (1043) [1288]
Molybdenum - 472 (28) [382]
Titanium - 0 (0) [0]
Vanadium - N/A [0]
Potassium - 3 (0) [0]
Fuel <0.5% [<1]
SUS Viscosity @ 210* F 56.3
Water = 0% [0%]
Soot/solids - 0.3% [N/A]
Glycol - 0% [neg]

Hey Road Rage just wondering. When are you planning on changing the OE oil. Also, how much Mr Moly are you suppose to put in? thanks

I think Road Rage and I are at the opposite ends of the spectrum with mileage on our '04's. I've got 4385 miles on the car and I've had it since Jan 10th. I've done an unusually large amount of driving lately, but it should stabilize, I hope, since I get 15k a year on the lease.

Anyway, I changed mine at 1000 miles and put a can of Mr. Moly in, per Road Rage's recommendations and I'm going to change the oil this weekend again. I think I'll start using Mobil 1 now.

Kris

As Motoman has recommended, change your oil after the first 20 miles (when buying a brand new car). This gets out the metal shavings and other gunk in the engine and increases engine life. Use normal oil (not synthetic) until the next oil change (>3,000 miles).

Sooner is better for an oil change in a new car!

I posted on this, you must have missed it.

I changed at 850 miles, adding the full can of Mr. Moly and one bottle of MaxLife Engine Protector. Khan is all ready for the Blue Ridge drive of the Mid-Atlantic/Hampton Roads gang this Sunday. I am doing MR294's diff tomorrow evening with LE-607.

Coral Doc: Thx for the analysis - I understand the silicon and the aluminum, but where is the high copper wear coming from?

Thanks Road Rage, I appreciate it

Your welcome! As for the copper, I don't know, and I was hoping that you could provide some insight.

Is there copper in the surface of any of the bearings?

Have fun on the drive! I grew up in Baltimore and spent many wonderful days wandering around the trail systems in the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Hi Glenn,

Is the Max Life necessary? What does it really do?

-Lee

it replenishes the molybdenum additives that were found in the original breakin fluid.

Which Honda V6 was this (3.0 or 3.2)?

there is no accord with a 3.2. they're talking about the j30a(3.0 liter) motor. 3.0 liter, sohc vtec motor making 200 hp/195 pd-ft torque.

Okay, so you're right about the 3.2 not being used in the new V6 Accord, but the new V6 is 240 hp / 212 ft-lbs...

The reason why I asked is because I'm curious if the TL will likely have similar wear.

I believe that the Mr Moly does this.
-Lee

You need MPZ: higher levels of moly, phos, and zinc. Mr. Moly break-in and/or MLEP will do nicely.

you are right, the 7th gen accord v6 makes 240 hp BUT it is the same j30(3.0 liter single cam motor). its just highly tuned, for example has a much better intake manifold setup, and honda was able to squeeze out another 40 hp from the same 3.0 liter. nissan needs 3.5L(for the altima) and PREMIUM fuel to make 240 hp.

I am guessing the high copper is from bearing wear - anyone can confirm that is what honda uses?