How to remove your stock exhaust. Offered for your comments
01-05-2004, 05:40 AM
#1
Thread Starter
How to remove your stock exhaust. Offered for your comments
The Helms manual I have doesn't give a step by step on how to remove your stock exhaust. Some people told me they had a hard time getting theirs off. Others said it was easy. I took some time and studied mine before removing it. It came off very easily. Since then I have removed others using the same method and it works well. I thought I would share the tips I developed. Here are the written steps with pictures.
I think Hondagal will put the final article with pictures in the How to archives. Let me know your thoughts.
I would appreciate any comments before I tell Honda Gal this is the final version.
1. Jack the car as high as you can with a floor jack using the rear differential as shown here
place jack stands under the frame rails in front of the rear wheels.
I usually put rags on the top of my jack stands just to avoid scratching the rails (nothing unusual about this).
Remove both rear tires
You will see a bar that goes across the underside of your car from left to right just below the exhaust pipe. This has to be removed in order to get the exhaust out.
Unbolt this bar and remove it from the car (note, in addition to two mounting bolts on each side, there are two smaller bolts attaching a black plastic box to the bar. remove those bolts also. The box will stay put as it is attached elsewhere to the car.
3. Spray the three catalytic converter bolts with either liquid wrench, PB buster, or WD-40
Unbolt the stock system at the rear catalytic converter flange. There are three nuts to remove.
The nuts are threaded on studs that are pressed into the flange of the catalytic converter. Do not try to bang them out. The exhaust will swing enough to slide rearward and off these studs. You can do this now, or wait until you have removed three of the five hangers as described below. I have tried it both ways and I now believe it is a little easier to remove three of the rubber hangers while leaving the studs in the flange holes of the stock exhaust for the time being.
4. Using liquid soap or WD-40, lubricate the rubber hangers and the steel posts they hang on. Lubricate both the posts on the exhaust and the posts on the car.
I think Hondagal will put the final article with pictures in the How to archives. Let me know your thoughts.
I would appreciate any comments before I tell Honda Gal this is the final version.
1. Jack the car as high as you can with a floor jack using the rear differential as shown here
place jack stands under the frame rails in front of the rear wheels.
I usually put rags on the top of my jack stands just to avoid scratching the rails (nothing unusual about this).
Remove both rear tires
You will see a bar that goes across the underside of your car from left to right just below the exhaust pipe. This has to be removed in order to get the exhaust out.
Unbolt this bar and remove it from the car (note, in addition to two mounting bolts on each side, there are two smaller bolts attaching a black plastic box to the bar. remove those bolts also. The box will stay put as it is attached elsewhere to the car.
3. Spray the three catalytic converter bolts with either liquid wrench, PB buster, or WD-40
Unbolt the stock system at the rear catalytic converter flange. There are three nuts to remove.
The nuts are threaded on studs that are pressed into the flange of the catalytic converter. Do not try to bang them out. The exhaust will swing enough to slide rearward and off these studs. You can do this now, or wait until you have removed three of the five hangers as described below. I have tried it both ways and I now believe it is a little easier to remove three of the rubber hangers while leaving the studs in the flange holes of the stock exhaust for the time being.
4. Using liquid soap or WD-40, lubricate the rubber hangers and the steel posts they hang on. Lubricate both the posts on the exhaust and the posts on the car.
01-05-2004, 07:31 AM
#2
Due to the numbers of pics in this write-up, I must include the last section of Bill's post in this post.
__________________________________________________ ______________
5. You now have to remove the 5 rubber hangers that support your system. There are two types of posts that the hangers go on. While you are doing step 3 above, note which hangers use opposing hook type posts to hold the hanger in place (2 in total, one on each tail pipe canister)
(note:rear hanger is removed in this picture)
and which use a combination of a hook and a button type post (3 in total, one on the resonator and one on each tail pipe canister).
6. Once all is lubricated, remove the rubber hanger supporting the resonator. (First can after the catalytic converter). This hanger is attached by a hook (resonator side) and a button type post (car side).
It is easiest to remove if you leave the studs in the exhaust flange. If you have pulled the system free of the studs, get under the resonator, push it up with one hand, and pry the rubber hanger off the button type post with the other hand. If you need some leverage, I found that an 18 inch wooden dowel gave me all the leverage I needed to pry the hangers off. The wooden dowel left no marks on the underside of my car.
7. Now, place your jack under your exhaust. I positioned mine at the point where the pipes fork. I used a piece of 2x6 to get some good coverage and balance and to avoid damaging the stock exhaust. raise the jack or lower as needed to support the weight of the exhaust and assist in the remainder of the removal.
(note: photo was taken with the exhaust lowered to better show placement of the jack.)
8. Each tail pipe canister is supported by two rubber hangers. One on each side is attached by the Button and hook system and one on each side is attached by the opposing hook system. First, remove the hanger from each side that is on the button and hook posts. Again, use a wooden dowel as needed for leverage and push the canisters up with one hand, or a knee to take the weight off the hanger as you pry it off. I find that with the help of the jack to take some weight off the system, I can get them off by hand.
(note: photo shows only the forward hanger. The rear hanger is already removed)
9. Now you are down to the two opposing hook type hangers. With all three button and hook hangers removed, you can now slide the exhaust rearward on the floor jack an inch or two. Be careful not to pull the jack out from under the exhaust. Guide the exhaust back as for as possible, This has the effect of pulling the two hooks away from each other and reducing the distance you have to stretch the rubber hanger to remove it from the hook.
10. Now pry the two remaining hangers off the hooks (either top or bottom hook, whichever is easier to reach.) Note, when the hanger on one side is off, there will only be one hanger on one side and the jack left balancing the system. I recommend removing the passengers side hanger first as the passenger side tail pipe can is not offset as far as the driver's side and will not throw the balance off as much.
11. After you remove the final hanger, gently push the exhaust system forward on the jack. At this point, you will have one hand on the jack and the other on the exhaust to keep it balanced. Remember, you slid it rearwards to get clearance. If you lower it without sliding it forward it will hang up on the rear bumper. Once you have it centered, gently lower the exhaust, watching to make sure it doesn't get hung up on anything on the way down.
12. Once down, roll it rearward and out from under the car.
13. The rubber hangers all look the same, but they are not. The two rearmost hangers (one on each canister) are stiffer than the other three. You can feel it if you flex them in your hand. From the factory, the rearmost hangers also have a little white dot painted on them, but that wears off and you may not be able to see it. It may be a good idea to wash the hangers with some dishwashing soap to remove and lubricant that was used to loosen the hangers
14. Installation differs with the system you buy. Follow the instructions that come with your system. As a general rule though, start by inspecting the new system closely and look for any obvious defects. One common defect is hanger hooks that are bent in shipping. This will affect alignment of your system.
15. Once inspected, start by hanging the front section of the new system on the car with the rubber hanger and then slide the flange onto the studs with the gasket in place. Be careful to properly align the gasket with the flanges. If your new system uses the OE type ring gasket, you should check it repeatedly as you tighten the flange nuts to make sure it has stayed in the groove. I use a thin blade screwdriver or butter knife to keep it in place until I have tightened the nuts enough to hold the gasket in with tension.
16. Do not tighten the front section down tight just yet. Install the remainder of your system on the hangers and bolt the pieces together.
17. Now look at your system from the rear. Are the canister's even? If not, you can try to rotate the system a little bit by pushing up on the low canister while someone else pulls down on the high one. This will take up any slack in the catalytic converter to exhaust flange connection that we didn't tighten up earlier and it may be enough to align the cans. If it lines up, now is the time to tighten up the cat/exhaust flange
18. Re-install rear suspension bar
19. If this does not align the cans, you will need to bend the hangers a bit to pull the cans into alignment.
20. Start the car and listen for air leaks (shouldn
__________________________________________________ ______________
5. You now have to remove the 5 rubber hangers that support your system. There are two types of posts that the hangers go on. While you are doing step 3 above, note which hangers use opposing hook type posts to hold the hanger in place (2 in total, one on each tail pipe canister)
(note:rear hanger is removed in this picture)
and which use a combination of a hook and a button type post (3 in total, one on the resonator and one on each tail pipe canister).
6. Once all is lubricated, remove the rubber hanger supporting the resonator. (First can after the catalytic converter). This hanger is attached by a hook (resonator side) and a button type post (car side).
It is easiest to remove if you leave the studs in the exhaust flange. If you have pulled the system free of the studs, get under the resonator, push it up with one hand, and pry the rubber hanger off the button type post with the other hand. If you need some leverage, I found that an 18 inch wooden dowel gave me all the leverage I needed to pry the hangers off. The wooden dowel left no marks on the underside of my car.
7. Now, place your jack under your exhaust. I positioned mine at the point where the pipes fork. I used a piece of 2x6 to get some good coverage and balance and to avoid damaging the stock exhaust. raise the jack or lower as needed to support the weight of the exhaust and assist in the remainder of the removal.
(note: photo was taken with the exhaust lowered to better show placement of the jack.)
8. Each tail pipe canister is supported by two rubber hangers. One on each side is attached by the Button and hook system and one on each side is attached by the opposing hook system. First, remove the hanger from each side that is on the button and hook posts. Again, use a wooden dowel as needed for leverage and push the canisters up with one hand, or a knee to take the weight off the hanger as you pry it off. I find that with the help of the jack to take some weight off the system, I can get them off by hand.
(note: photo shows only the forward hanger. The rear hanger is already removed)
9. Now you are down to the two opposing hook type hangers. With all three button and hook hangers removed, you can now slide the exhaust rearward on the floor jack an inch or two. Be careful not to pull the jack out from under the exhaust. Guide the exhaust back as for as possible, This has the effect of pulling the two hooks away from each other and reducing the distance you have to stretch the rubber hanger to remove it from the hook.
10. Now pry the two remaining hangers off the hooks (either top or bottom hook, whichever is easier to reach.) Note, when the hanger on one side is off, there will only be one hanger on one side and the jack left balancing the system. I recommend removing the passengers side hanger first as the passenger side tail pipe can is not offset as far as the driver's side and will not throw the balance off as much.
11. After you remove the final hanger, gently push the exhaust system forward on the jack. At this point, you will have one hand on the jack and the other on the exhaust to keep it balanced. Remember, you slid it rearwards to get clearance. If you lower it without sliding it forward it will hang up on the rear bumper. Once you have it centered, gently lower the exhaust, watching to make sure it doesn't get hung up on anything on the way down.
12. Once down, roll it rearward and out from under the car.
13. The rubber hangers all look the same, but they are not. The two rearmost hangers (one on each canister) are stiffer than the other three. You can feel it if you flex them in your hand. From the factory, the rearmost hangers also have a little white dot painted on them, but that wears off and you may not be able to see it. It may be a good idea to wash the hangers with some dishwashing soap to remove and lubricant that was used to loosen the hangers
14. Installation differs with the system you buy. Follow the instructions that come with your system. As a general rule though, start by inspecting the new system closely and look for any obvious defects. One common defect is hanger hooks that are bent in shipping. This will affect alignment of your system.
15. Once inspected, start by hanging the front section of the new system on the car with the rubber hanger and then slide the flange onto the studs with the gasket in place. Be careful to properly align the gasket with the flanges. If your new system uses the OE type ring gasket, you should check it repeatedly as you tighten the flange nuts to make sure it has stayed in the groove. I use a thin blade screwdriver or butter knife to keep it in place until I have tightened the nuts enough to hold the gasket in with tension.
16. Do not tighten the front section down tight just yet. Install the remainder of your system on the hangers and bolt the pieces together.
17. Now look at your system from the rear. Are the canister's even? If not, you can try to rotate the system a little bit by pushing up on the low canister while someone else pulls down on the high one. This will take up any slack in the catalytic converter to exhaust flange connection that we didn't tighten up earlier and it may be enough to align the cans. If it lines up, now is the time to tighten up the cat/exhaust flange
18. Re-install rear suspension bar
19. If this does not align the cans, you will need to bend the hangers a bit to pull the cans into alignment.
20. Start the car and listen for air leaks (shouldn
01-23-2004, 12:20 PM
#4
Administrator
This would be even more useful if the types/sizes of wrenches and sockets were included here, this way prospective DIY'ers would know whether they need to run to the store for something before they start 
Nice thread
J.P.
Nice thread
J.P.
01-23-2004, 12:30 PM
#5
The only wrench/socket that is needed is a 10 mm one for the 3 cat nuts. A short (3" - 4") extension will also be useful as would a couple of longish screwdrivers or small prybars for "popping" the rubber hangers.
01-23-2004, 02:43 PM
#6
Registered User
Nicely done Bill!
xviper makes good comments, as usual.
I would like to also add that WD-40 is not a good choice as a lubricant. The petroleum content will more rapidly degrade the rubber hangers than liquid soap or the lubricant I used - silicon spray - often available as a lubricant for the nylon rollers in the tracks of garage doors.
When I changed my exhaust, I also replaced the gasket (donut) at the CAT. Not everyone does this, but it will ensure a proper seal.
xviper makes good comments, as usual.
I would like to also add that WD-40 is not a good choice as a lubricant. The petroleum content will more rapidly degrade the rubber hangers than liquid soap or the lubricant I used - silicon spray - often available as a lubricant for the nylon rollers in the tracks of garage doors.
When I changed my exhaust, I also replaced the gasket (donut) at the CAT. Not everyone does this, but it will ensure a proper seal.
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01-23-2004, 06:55 PM
#8
Registered User
Originally posted by CoralDoc
Nicely done Bill!
xviper makes good comments, as usual.
I would like to also add that WD-40 is not a good choice as a lubricant. The petroleum content will more rapidly degrade the rubber hangers than liquid soap or the lubricant I used - silicon spray - often available as a lubricant for the nylon rollers in the tracks of garage doors.
When I changed my exhaust, I also replaced the gasket (donut) at the CAT. Not everyone does this, but it will ensure a proper seal.
Nicely done Bill!
xviper makes good comments, as usual.
I would like to also add that WD-40 is not a good choice as a lubricant. The petroleum content will more rapidly degrade the rubber hangers than liquid soap or the lubricant I used - silicon spray - often available as a lubricant for the nylon rollers in the tracks of garage doors.
When I changed my exhaust, I also replaced the gasket (donut) at the CAT. Not everyone does this, but it will ensure a proper seal.
