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Use these instructions at your own risk. Not responsible for catching your house on fire, etc.
First, make sure you have all the parts from Saner:
1x 1.25 inch solid steel bar
1x packet of grease
2x spacer plates
2x brake line relocation brackets w/ 1/2inch nuts, bolts & washers
2x urethane bushings & brackets
4x 14mm bolts
Tools you will need:
jack and jackstands
metric sockets -- 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
metric open ended wrench -- 14mm (or a small adjustable)
metric hex bit -- 5mm (3/16ths inch hex bit is close and may work in a pinch)
standard sockets -- 5/8ths, 11/16ths
standard open ended wrenches -- 5/8ths and 11/16ths (or and adjustable)
standard hex bit -- 3/16ths inch
screwdriver
1) Jack the front of the car up and support it with jackstands.
2) Remove the front wheels
3) From underneath the car, remove the plastic panel that covers the swaybar -- it's the second panel from the front.
3a: Locate the 7 push clips and 2 10mm bolts that hold the panel in place. There are 3 clips across the front, 2 in the back and 2 up high near where the swaybar comes out on each side. See pics:
3b: to remove the clips, insert a screwdriver into the indentation and slowly twist it to pop up the inner button. You may have to work on one side then the other to avoid breaking the button.
3c: once the button is popped up, use the screwdriver to pry the main body of the clip out. It should pop right out:
3d: remove the 2 10mm bolts.
3e: the panel should now be free. Pull it out
4) loosen the 4 14mm bolts (2 on each side) that hold the sway bar brackets to the frame. Do not remove them completely yet.
5) remove the stock endlinks:
You will need to insert a 5mm hex bit into the end of the stock endlink bolt and use a 14mm wrench to remove the nut. Without the 5mm hex bit to hold the threaded portion, the nut will just spin freely. ***NOTE -- THE PICS INDICATE 12mm for the nut. It is acutally 14mm***
NOTE -- these pics show removing the endlink from the bar, but you will also need to remove the other end of the endlink from the mounting tab on the lower control arm. In fact, if you want to save a couple of minutes, you can just disconnect the endlink from the lower control arm and leave it connected to the stock swaybar.
6) Remove the 4 14mm bolts from step 4. This will completely release the bar. Take it out and set it on the ground. You will not be reusing the bolts.
7a) Locate the stock brake line mount and remove the 12mm bolt
7b) Place the relocation bracket against the stock mount and reinstall the 12mm bolt.
7c) Use the supplied 1/2 inch nut, bolt, and washers to fit the stock brake line to the relocation bracket.
8) Put the metal collars on the bar loosely, grease the bushings and place them on the bar, and fit a bracket over each bushing. Place one of the new 14mm bolts through the top hole on the bracket and then through the spacer plate. This will allow you to lift the whole end into position and start the bolt without having to line everything up individually.
9) Lift the bar into position and start all 4 14mm bolts. Do not tighten these down, as you want to be able to move the bar around some.
10) center the bar -- I measured it, but it doesn't have to be perfect.
11) Install the new endlinks
11a) The correct order of parts should be:
11/16ths nut, washer, bar, large spacer, endlink, small spacer, 5/8ths bolt
11/16ths nut, washer, control arm tab, large spacer, endlink, small spacer, 5/8ths bolt
If you need additional clearance around the shocks, you can reverse the orientation of the bolt, in which case the order of parts should be: 5/8ths bolt, washer, bar, large spacer, endlink, small spacer, 11/16ths nut
You will likely need to adjust the length of the endlinks to fit.
11b) If you want to pre-load the bar, you can do so by placing jacks under the control arms and jacking them up before setting the endlink length.
12) With the endlinks in place, tighten down on the 4 14mm bolts and the 3/16ths inch hex screws in the metal retaining collars. Make sure the collars are snug against the bushings.
13) Reinstall the under tray plastic & wheels
NOTES:
The stock torque specs are:
4 bolts on the sway bar brackets: 29 ft/lbs
'bar side' of the endlinks: 28 ft/lbs
suspension arm side of the the endlinks: 22 ft/lbs.
I'm lazy and set my torque wrench to 30 for everything on the saner bar.
Please post corrections/additions and I will incorporate them.
What a lifesaver. I just got my bar today, and was planning to spend time going through the posts trying to put together my own directions. Now it's all in one place. The timing on this post is perfect.
Highlander, I wish this would have been up one month earlier. I learned the long way by doing it myself. I cant say I did it exactly this way but pretty darn close. I cant wait to get my car on the track. So far no wierd noises or clunking. I still cant belive this doesnt come with any directions, but now Saner is off the hook since your post is out. Great work!!!!!
Sorry I didn't get it pulled together for you when you asked about it. I had a million other things going on and didn't get a chance until this weekend. In fact, I've had the updated parts (spacer plates and brake line brackets) for a couple of months now. In fact, the only reason I got it done this weekend was that I had the car up on jackstands anyway while my street tires were getting mounted up.
01-12-2004, 01:10 PM
