flywheel
#1
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flywheel
So, I have an 01 s2k...and with that comes the lovely clutch chatter than anybody with an 00 or 01 knows about....so im replacing the clutch in a week or so. My question is, since i MIGHT also replace the flywheel to acocmptech flywheel (9lbs) is if i did, does anyone think i would see a significant change in accel? I understand the concept of rotating mass and how in theory it can help, but two things remain in my way
1. i dont know how much the stock flywheel weighs
2. i want answers from those who know by way of experience
Chris
1. i dont know how much the stock flywheel weighs
2. i want answers from those who know by way of experience
Chris
#3
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ok the toda seems to be the best choice... comptech is 9.2 or so and toda is 8.3.... anyone have a good suggestion on where to buy one? ive only been able to find a price of over $400....while the comptech one i should be able to get around $300...anyone seen the toda flywheel on any websites for around $300??
#4
There is a noticable difference ... and I've tried both flywheels. I really didn't notice much of difference between the two flywheels though. The Comptech has the benefit of being resurfaceable though. The Toda is about a half-pound lighter but is at the limit when surface material is considered. The Toda is meant for race cars where every little ounce counts ... but also where parts are replaced often. I had a problem with the Toda/Mugen (PP) combo slipping. However, I'm the only person to have this problem to date. I have the Comptech/ACT setup currently and have NO complaints to post. The ACT PP has a much stiffer pedal feel, but the 'sweet spot' for engagements is much better defined, compared to stock or the Toda/Mugen setup. The Comptech comes with the pilot bearing installed as well (and is included in the weight ...).
A suggestion for you when you do the deed here: replace everything you can when you change out your clutch - T/O bearing, flywheel and PP bolts, inspect (replace if needbe) the rear main seal, and the pilot bearing if you go with Toda. I recommend (via countless recommendations to me) to use the stock disk. It's as good as any of the aftermarket 'stock style' disks. Only go with the puck style if you are racing the car ... I'm talking real racing: as in roll bars, $4000 brake systems, sponsors ... etc. They are not meant for street applications.
A suggestion for you when you do the deed here: replace everything you can when you change out your clutch - T/O bearing, flywheel and PP bolts, inspect (replace if needbe) the rear main seal, and the pilot bearing if you go with Toda. I recommend (via countless recommendations to me) to use the stock disk. It's as good as any of the aftermarket 'stock style' disks. Only go with the puck style if you are racing the car ... I'm talking real racing: as in roll bars, $4000 brake systems, sponsors ... etc. They are not meant for street applications.
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ok, but on an s2k with basic in's and out's is a flywheel a good upgrade? i refuse to spend in exess of $400 if it's not gonna be worth while. I understand the mechanics behind it, rotating mass, but does it help the car ACCELERATE faster(what im hoping for) or ONLY REV FASTER WHEN IN NEUTRAL?
Chris
Chris
#7
I noticed a difference. The worth is up to you ... as in $.
The engine does rev faster and it also has reduced the amount of braking I do because the downshift HP is more noticeable as well ... i.e. just let off the gas and you'll slow down.
Remember, the flywheel is an energy storage device (along with being an integral part of the clutch system).
The OEM FW is
The engine does rev faster and it also has reduced the amount of braking I do because the downshift HP is more noticeable as well ... i.e. just let off the gas and you'll slow down.
Remember, the flywheel is an energy storage device (along with being an integral part of the clutch system).
The OEM FW is
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#8
As you read the article, you'll find the largest benefit is in your lower gears. There is little or no benefit in higher gears.
The combined rotational inertia of your crank rotational assembly (everything rotating at crank speed) acts as a constant multiplier. The lower this constant, the lower your equivalent mass.
The combined rotational inertia of your crank rotational assembly (everything rotating at crank speed) acts as a constant multiplier. The lower this constant, the lower your equivalent mass.
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