jeffbrig

I am the original owner of a 2002 with 14k miles that is my daily driver (short commute). Lately I've felt like I was off a bit in the shifting department (I've driven sticks exclusively for almost 15 years now), and I just realized the lack of smoothness is because the friction point of the clutch is higher than it once was. When the car was new, the friction point was just off the floor, now it's near the top of the pedal travel, which is a little awkward. This is throwing off my timing a little bit on quick shifts, unless I shift slowly and consciously. The car is not abused, and has never been clutch dropped. Clutch hydraulic fluid was changed out last summer.

So, what could cause the friction point to move, and is there any sort of adjustment/fix for this? Car is under factory warranty through July, and has an extended warranty for 7 years through the dealership where I bought it.

Thanks for your help,
Jeff

mbilderback

You might want to bleed the clutch system incase there's some air in there. I'm not sure what kind of adjustment there is on a hydraulic clutch.

Boston Duce

Jeff,

There is an adjustment procedure done with clutch pedal inside the car.

It is in the Helms manual. If I remember right, there is not a lot adjustment travel available.

Try a search here, I seem to remember a thread last year about it.

Regards,
BD

xviper

As suggested already, do the clutch bleed first and see if this helps. A clutch that progresses more toward a high friction point may be indicative of advanced wear. If this is the case, then you should be able to test it for slippage.
As a last resort, adjust the clutch pedal itself to move the friction point back down, however, don't do this unless you run out of other options.

bigpurp

Jeff, PM rateds2k about this. We adjusted mine a few months back.

Gernby

Moving the engagement point is simple. The master cylinder's pushrod is adjustable in length at the pedal. You just pull a pin, loosen the locknut, then rotate the rod to shorten or lengthen it. In your case, you would want to shorten it. Shorten it until there is about 1" of free play in the pedal movement.

jeffbrig

Thanks guys, I'll bleed it first then look for the adjustment.

s2k_9000rpm

i experienced a similar problem when i had a new clutch installed by the dealer. when i was given the car back the friction point was now very close to the floor as opposed to the higher point it was at when it came from the factory.

BTW isn't it better to have it engage higher up? less pedal movement=less time in between shifts right?

Billman250

There is only one correct setting for the clutch rod....zero, or barely noticeable freeplay.

When I say this, I mean play between the end of the rod, and the master cyl piston...you should barely see play in the rod when using light pinky pressure to move the clutch pedal in and out.

Adjusting it in any other way is only masking another problem.

Shortening the rod will decrease the amount of disengagement, and most likely cause disc drag and second gear grinding.

**this may be difficult for some to grasp. When pressing on the clutch with your finger, you will usually feel two different "freeplays". The first is pushrod play, in which 99% should be removed by loosening the 12mm nut, and turning the rod with you fingers to remove the play.

The second is the built in play in the master, which is normal.

Billman250

You most likely have:

Air in the hyd clutch.

Major play in the pushrod.