Sticky / Rough / Squeaky clutch pedal, How to fix with pics...

Hey all,
My clutch pedal has been feeling very rough. You would depress the pedal all the way then bring it up slowly and it would stick and feel very rough down the bottom.
After not driving it for over a week it started to squeak everytime i pressed the clutch pedal down aswell!!

Heres the fix...

First remove the Clutch slave cylinder from the side of the transmission housing. There is only two bolts holding this in..


Here is the slave cylinder with the boot and rod removed. There is not need to remove the banjo bolt.


Pic of the rubber boot and the cylinder rod removed. This should come apart from the slave cylinder with next to no force.


When removed you can see that it is slightly damaged and rough. There is a nipple at the top which needs to be grinded down flat. When i removed the rod there was no grease on it.


Grind the nipple down carefully and polish up to a high finish. Should look something like this


Inside the clutch, you can see the release fork and the cup for the slave rod. Clean this out and reapply high temp grease. If you have a dremel with a polishing bit it would make the job alot easier.
The actual boot over the fork can come out with a tug.


Assemble the Slave cylinder with the boot and rod. Make sure there is high temp grease inside the boot and on the ball end of the rod.

Slide the slave cylinder back into the transmission housing making sure that the rod arm ball sits in the cup of the release fork.

Bolt up and you're done! Step on the clutch pedal a few times to work the grease between the joints..

I should also add that you might want to lubricate the rod and pin on the clutch pedal side inside the car. This should be done frist as your problem may only be that..

Nice! You should post this in Under the Hood.

Do you use stands when you are under there dbzerk?

Mad if you don't.

LOL... i used buckets under the wheels..

Of course!!!
Its a habbit of mine to use the stands on either side and also leave the jack up but not full pressure...

AUS: Want to move this to UTH for me??

Thanks

You the man. This just happened to me in the past week. How long did it take?
This should def be put in the faq and DIY thread.

my 2002 had the same problem for a while. i finally kicked the laziness and did the same repair. i just used the dremel on the nipple, no fine polishing and it is super smooth.

and it look all of 15 minutes. it was more of a pain to jack the car up!LOL

So there's no draining or bleeding necessary?

^nope,don't take off the hose, just the two bolts that hold on the slave.

No more than half hour.. and the results speak for itself!
Dont need to touch the hoses at all

Just don't get so happy and step on the clutch before everything is back in and tighten

Mine is doing the samething, thanks! Sometime i wonders how you guy found DIY like this. GREAT HELP



I used dremel here also

This post has been edited by iam7head on May 23 2006, 01:18 AM

Excellent thread, I need to do this. I already got some Honda high temp urea grease (I think that's the right type). I wasn't even aware that the "nipple" needed to be ground down. Do you also need to do the shift fork with urea grease, or is this enough to elimate that notchy feeling?

EDIT: Honda recommends "Super Hi Temp Urea Grease" Honda part# 08798-9002

This post has been edited by SenderGreen on Jul 29 2006, 07:58 PM

four questions:

is there any real reason for that 'nipple' to be there?

could there be any side effects for grinding it down?

how did it get there?

where do i get the grease from and does anyone know a product no.?

Thanks!

Answers are IMO

#1 - The reason the "nipple" is there is because the cup has a dimple in the centre (visible in the picture), so it doesnt wear there and forms the nipple on the rod.
Nipple & dimple are eachothers "opposite", right?

#2 - No side effects I can think of, smooth = better
Don't grind it down millimeters, just the surface to polish.
Start with 800 grid sandpaper or so and get a can of elbow grease

#3 - It got there because of wear (and lack of grease)

#4 - Any automotive store should have some high temp / EP grease.
Molycote is a brand that comes to my mind.

You're welcome

great answers

thanks again!

yeah, for stuff like this, oil pump gears... and stuff that will be needing high heat, you want to find a grease that has molybdenum in it. It is usually abbreviated as moly, and also usually listed on the front (no need to look through all the ingredients).

My car have had this issue since the day I bought it. Dealer couldn't find out whats wrong. All they did is re-adjust the pedal height, which seem to works for a few days, then it came again.

Thanks God I Found This Thread!!!!

Cool!
hope i works for you!

Today was the day I actually performed this easy but rewarding maintenance.
Almost no grease found on the clutch fork & rod.
The rod was a little damaged, less then the one in the picture.
May I add that I also polished the other end of the rod.
That's the end that "pivots" in the slave cylinder piston.
For grease on the rod & fork I used a home cooked mixture of a never seeze compound & Molycote.
Needless to say the clutch is working very VERY smoothy now.


IMHO everyone should do this, I'm not sure how much grease Honda puts on during assembly.
And / or how long it lasts.

Make sure you replace your clutch fluid at a regular interval as well. I'm suffering from that now after the new clutch.

Had to replace the master and slave due to what i fugure was rust/contamination since the flud was in long enough to asorb too much water.

Is this in the FAQ post yet? If not can a mod please add it as I want to be able to find it later this month when I start going through all the fluid replacements etc... Thanks.

Thank goodness for this post! Mine started doing this yesterday. I will get on this right away. SAAAWEET!