lazykiwi

here's a little diy i put together (with my gf) for installing the TEIN EDFC. we haven't had time to finish the coilover diy (part i) yet though. we just finished the coilover diy which can be found here. let me know if i missed anything.

You can download the instruction manuals directly from TEIN's website or you can use this direct link:
TEIN EDFC manual (PDF)

Here's what comes in the box:




Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

First, we'll route the front intermediate cables.


We decided to run the cables through an existing hole shown here. It's at the bottom of the firewall, on the driver's side.


Route the cables through the hole. Here's the other side of it, near the pedals.


Route the cable for the front right shock around the engine bay and make sure it can reach. Make sure the other cable can reach the left shock too (not pictured).


Next, we'll route the rear intermediate cables.


Remove the driver's side door sill trim. Just pull on it.


It has three plastic retaining clips. (The middle one is missing in this picture.)


Open the cap on each hook of the roll bar lower trim. Then, unscrew and remove the hooks.


Here, the roll bar lower trim is removed.


Remove the side trim by unscrewing the bottom screw.


Here, the side trim is removed. This car may look a little different because it has the hardtop body side catcher installed.


Remove the spare tire from the trunk. Take out all the clips that hold the cover in.


Loosen the thing that holds the spare tire in.


Then, remove the spare tire.


Tape back left side of the trunk lining so that you have more room to work.


Route the cables from the trunk through the hole behind the driver's seat.


Here are the back ends of the cables poking through the hole.


Route the cable for the right shock and make sure it's long enough to reach.


Route the other cable to the left shock.


Remove the shift knob, by loosening the nut that holds it in.


Pull up on the center console.


After it's loose, make sure to disconnect the top and emergency connectors. Then remove it.


Here is the console removed.


Now we need to remove the radio. To get the radio door off, you need to pull on it towards the shifter, not upwards. You might have to yank it really hard!


Here you can see the clips that hold it in.


Remove the four screws that hold the radio in.


Detach the two connectors to it, and then remove the radio.


Now we'll put in the Ft cable.


Plug the front intermediate connector to the Ft connector.


Then run the Ft cable to behind the radio.


Route the Ft cable from under the radio area to the shifter area and then to the area where the coin box was. You may need to push aside some of the foam in the shifter area.


Now we're going to put in the power supply cable.


Screw the grounding connector to the screw next to the radio. Make sure to put it so that it doesn't get squeezed when the radio is put back in.


Splice the three wires from the power supply cable to the radio's harness and solder. The red (accessory power) wire connects to the white/red wire. The green (illumination) wire connects to the red/black wire. And the yellow (power) wire connects to the white/blue wire.


Route the power supply cable to the coin box area (like the Ft cable).


Tie up any loose wires and make sure they're out of the way.


Now we want to install the Rr cable. To keep the installation clean, we'll hide the wires behind the edge of the storage box.


Remove the two screws underneath the 12V outlet.


Loosen the screw inside the storage box.


While pulling on the storage box, squeeze the cable under the panel.


Connect the Rr cable to the rear intermediate cables. Tie up any extra slack.



Underneath the console, you need to remove the screw for the coin holder.


Then, pop out the coin holder but pushing on three tabs. Then use a dremel to cut off the back end of the coin holder. Remember to wear safety glasses!


Here, the coin holder has been cut already.


Slide the EDFC in until it's flush with the coin holder.


We used some electrical tape to make sure it's secure.


Then put the EDFC into the center console. It will clip in. Plug the connectors into the back of the EDFC.


Put the radio, consoles, and panels back in reverse order. Here's how the EDFC will look once it's in.

lazykiwi

Now we're going to connect the motors. Remove the cap that covers the piston shaft.


Detach and remove the silver click assembly located at the top of the piston shaft with the supplied wrench.


Use the hex key to unscrew and remove the black hex screw inside the piston shaft.


Apply some grease on the threads of the gold hex screw.


Use the hex key to screw the gold hex screw until the top is flush with the into the piston shaft.


Shake the threadlocker bottle!!!


Apply some threadlocker to the threads of the piston shaft.


Remove the rubber cap from the motor. Carefully put the motor onto the piston shaft. Hold the motor and screw the motor screw 3 complete revolutions.


Gently screw in the motor until it stops.

Screw the motor screw 2 more full revolutions.


Tighten the motor.

Confirm the motor shaft turns smoothly by turning the motor screw counterclockwise one revolution and back.

Put the rubber cap back onto the motor and repeat for the three other motors.


Plug in all the connectors for each motor.


Go out for a spin!

fadiss2k

Great write up!

AusS2000

Love the 'Shake the threadlocker bottle!!!' pic! That's gold!

Nimbus

Excellent write-up

omgvtec

Great write up. I did this install myself last spring, it's really not that difficult. It's more-less just time consuming to do a nice clean install.

Siver18

Great write up. I just have one question. Do I have to turn the damper setting to 1 before install the motor?

Thanks.

NFRs2000NYC

Excellent write up! Aus, throw this bad boy into the install FAQ~!

AusS2000

Added to this and the Part 1 tot he FAQs post.

NFRs2000NYC

The car in your avatar looks like it's having a small seizure