Clear corner mod How To (long)

I realize this is a long post but I tried to be detailed and included pics of everthing. The image limit (which I can't seem to locate!?!) is making me do this in multiple posts. In any case, I hope it's helpful.

First off let me thank S2K0, SilverStreak, MKH, JerryPeterson, and others for their posts and suggestions. This would have been much harder without them.

Disclaimer: I claim no responsibility for mistakes or injuries made by anyone using this post. This represents the actions I performed and are submitted as suggestions only.

Required items:

• 4-6 hours (if this is your first time performing this mod)
  
• Phillips head screwdriver
  
• Socket wrench
  
• Socket wrench extension
  
• 10mm socket
  
• 8mm socket
  
• Oven
  
• Damp towel
  
• Prying tool(s) like a flathead screwdriver(s) or small scraper(s)
  
• (2) 7440 bulbs*
  
• (2) 168 bulbs**
  
• Adhesive Sealant (like silicon)

* I could not find amber 7440 bulbs locally and the bulbs I ordered from LightLens.com turned out to be dual brightness bulbs that were slightly different than 7440 bulbs. So, I used MKH's method and colored the stock bulbs with an orange Sharpie! There are several online retailers (some listed below) that sell replacement bulbs and I found similar bulbs at PepBoys (they would probably fit the 7440 socket but they were not the exact same bulb).

** I could not find amber 168 bulbs locally. However, 194 bulbs are the same design, are available in amber, and are supposedly brighter. I found these at several auto parts retailers and they work just fine.

Sources for replacement bulbs:
ClearTailLights.com
LightLens.com
MatrixMotorsport.com
ImportTrader.com
AutoBulbDepot.com




Helpful items:

• T25 tamper-proof Torx bit
  
• Clean soft gloves (ones that wont scratch or mark the clear plastic)
  
• Service manual (Helm)
  
• Assistant
  
• Alcohol
  
• The Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch and, of course, the Book of Armaments

Note: I've indicated names of certain components from the Helm manual in quotes. To see the pictures in full size just click on them.

Step 1: Remove front bumper.
(The order of removing the bolts is extremely important and should be followed exactly! Just kidding - just make sure you get all the bolts off before attempting to detach bits.)

There are 5 screws and 13 bolts to remove in order to detach the front bumper...

Use a phillips head screwdriver to remove the five black bolts holding the "front bumper upper stiffener". Pic 1 - numbered 1 through 5.
Pic 1[/PHOTO]

Use the 10mm socket to remove the two bolts fastened to the fender. Pic 2 - numbered 6 and 7 (not shown but in same location as 6 on opposite side).
Pic 2[/PHOTO]

Use the 10mm socket to remove the nine bolts holding the bumper onto the "front under cover" and "inner fender". Pic 3 - numbered 8 through 16.
Pic 3[/PHOTO]

Use the 8mm socket to remove the two screws on the inside of the wheel well. Pic 4 - numbered 17 and 18 (not shown but in same location as 17 on opposite side).
Pic 4[/PHOTO]

Pull the bumper off by disengaging it from the four hooks under the headlights and the two hooks under the fenders. See Pic 6 for the location of the hooks circled in red. This simply requires some tugging on each side of the bumper. (The foam "absorber" may fall out when the bumper is free. It fits onto the "front bumper beam" via two round stubs.)


Step 2: Remove headlight assemblies.

Disconnect all the electrical connections to the headlight assembly. There are four.

Use the 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the headlight assembly to the fender. Pic 5 - numbered 1 and 2.
Pic 5[/PHOTO]

Detach the "corner upper beam" by removing the four 10mm bolts in Pic 6 - numbered 3, 4, 6, and 7.
Pic 6[/PHOTO]

Use the 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the headlight assembly to the fender. Pic 6 - numbered 5 and 8. The bolt numbered 5 will require an extension on the socket wrench as it is somewhat hidden between the fender wall and the metal brace under the headlight.

Remove the headlight assembly by maneuvering it around the various connection points. Then look at what you've done to your S2000...
Pic 7[/PHOTO]

Continued...

...Continued from first post

Step 3: Cook the headlights.

Others have stated they did not remove the sockets and the HID ballast from the headlight assemblies before baking them. I removed everything to reduce the chance of damaging something. Removing the cover to the HID socket required a Torx T25 tamper-proof bit, which I bought at an auto parts retailer. However, if you're not comfortable with this step it seems to be OK to bake the sockets and HID ballast along with the headlight assembly.

The actual baking of the headlights is subjective as well. I used a temperature of about 225F degrees for around 10 minutes and a second baking for around 7 minutes after getting one corner pried open. The goal is to simply soften the glue holding the black and clear pieces together. (With all the sockets and the HID ballast removed I did not worry about damaging anything with the heat.)

I placed the headlight assembly on a damp towel on the oven rack without pre-heating the oven (allowing the oven to heat up with the headlight assembly in it). After the first baking I was able to pry open one of the corners. Some have stated they did this with their bare hands but I used flat-head screwdrivers, a scraper, and a lot of cursing . The plastic is rather hot at this point and you may want to use gloves. Once the corner was pried open I baked it again to re-soften the remaining glue. I was then able to slowly pull apart the two pieces. (This step is where an assistant might come in handy by placing separators in between the two pieces while you pry them open. However, I was able to do it alone.)

Once the two pieces are apart simply remove the amber diffuser. It's loosely attached with small tabs.

At this point you'll realize you're only halfway finished so you may want to use the Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch and put yourself out of your misery. Consult the Book of Armaments and remember to count to three, no more, no less. Five is right out!


Step 4: Reassemble the headlights.

Use some type of adhesive sealant and apply a bead inside the groove of the black piece where the clear piece fits in. (See Pic 8 for the type of sealant I used. I bought this at an auto parts retailer.) Ensure there are no breaks in the bead of sealant and be liberal with it - you want the headlight assembly to be airtight after reassembly. Place both pieces back into the oven to re-soften the old glue. I put them back in at 225F degrees for about 7 minutes. Push the two pieces back together and verify each tab is locked. Mine required another trip to the oven so I could push the two pieces together even more. After the second baking I wrapped the headlights with a towel and wound a strong string around the two pieces so continuous pressure was applied while the sealant cured. (If you do this just make sure the towel is lint-free and the string will not "shed". I had some lint and string-stuff make its way into the headlight assemblies after they were sealed. It was a big pain getting that stuff out.)
Pic 8[/PHOTO]

Allow the sealant to cure and the headlights to cool to ambient temperature. I only waited an hour or so for this but I live in Phoenix and the humidity was extremely low when I did this. (I can imagine that if you live in a humid environment this step is crucial to ensure no condensation occurs inside the headlight assemblies after all the components are replaced and the headlights are airtight.)

If you so desire, remove the clear turning signal bulb and running light bulb and replace them with your new bulbs. As I stated above I used an orange Sharpie marker to color the turn signal bulb. Replace all the sockets and HID ballast if you removed them.


Step 5: Install the headlights and reattach the bumper.

Re-attach the four connectors to each of the headlights and work them back into place. Getting the headlights back in is a bit tricky - it takes a little bit of wiggling. Take note of the small black tab on the top of each headlight assembly. It is in the area of the red circle in Pic 5. This tab fits into a hole in the underside of the fender. If you don't get this tab into the hole the headlight will not be flush.

Bolt the headlight assembly in and re-attach the "corner upper beam" as shown in Pics 5 and 6. Don't forget the hidden bolt (#5).

Re-attach the bumper by pushing it back into position. Ensure the bumper slides into each of the three hooks noted above (circled in Pic 6). Also, make sure the foam "absorber" is in place before the bumper is re-attached and the "inner fenders" and "front under cover" are tucked into the bumper.

Bolt the bumper on and re-attach the "front bumper upper stiffener" as shown in Pics 1, 2, 3, and 4.


Step 6: Adjust the headlights???

I did not adjust mine after performing this mod as they did not need it. However, you may need to adjust yours. To do this use a Phillips head screwdriver and turn the small "vertical adjuster" that is on the back of the headlight assembly. It's accessible through the inside of the engine compartment via a small hole in the fender wall. Pic 9 shows the gear-like adjuster.
Pic 9[/PHOTO]

The Helm manual states local requirements will dictate where your headlights should be but it also indicates a standard adjustment:

• Park the vehicle on a level surface.
  
• Make sure the tire pressures are correct.
  
• The driver or someone who weighs the same should sit in the driver's seat. (This seems like overkill.)

[list=1]

[*]Clean the outer lens so that you can see the center of the headlights. (There is small cross-hair in the clear plastic directly in front of the HID lens. This is considered the center of the headlight and where all measurements are taken.)


[*]Park the vehicle in front of a wall or a screen so that the center of the headlight is 7.5m (25 feet) away from the wall or screen.


[*]Turn the low beams on.


[*]Determine if the headlights are aimed properly. Measure the height of the headlights (from the ground to the cross-hair). The edge of the headlight beam projected on the wall should be 52mm (2.1 in) below the height of the headlights.
[/list=1]


Step 7: Drink the alcohol and admire your work.

Actually, immediately after doing this I did not think it was worthwhile. That was a couple weeks ago. I now feel that it was worthwhile because the car looks so much better and I've received some nice comments on the new look...
S2000 1[/PHOTO]
S2000 2[/PHOTO]

GOOD LUCK!

very informative

Great Job!!
I'll be doing ours in about a week+/- and this will be a great help.
Thanks

-DK

Very good post. You must have spent a lot of time composing and readying the pictures for it - thanks

Great work.....I PM'd you about making a FAQ out of this. You covered the basics but we still need specifics on thew Amber Bulb to use? And how to paint it to allow the light to shine through. Great work and photos....the FAQ is 75% there.....

Utah

Here is my sample............
suzuka1.jpg[/PHOTO]

This is very informative. Thanks.

The bulb to replace the 7440 turn signal bulb is definately more difficult to get in amber than the running light. As I stated in the "How To" I simply used an orange Sharpie to color the stock one (thanks MKH for the idea). Not the most elegant solution but it worked. I did not try fitting the so called 7440 bulbs I recieved from LightLens because there were obvious differences to the stock 7440 bulbs.

Some of those other links to online retailers sold amber 7440 bulbs but were pricey. And given the experience I had with LightLens.com it's hard to tell if they are the same as the stock. Maybe somebody else has ordered 7440 bulbs that are the same as stock???

torque wrench needed for this project? also, is it facing up or down when baking? much props. thanks for the instructions!

I didn't use a torque wrench but the Helm manual does indicate amount of torque to apply to some of the bolts (just the ones for the bumper - not the headlight assembly).

I don't think the way the headlight sits in the oven matters. Just put it on the damp towel so it won't tip over and accidentally touch some hot metal in the oven.

Do you still need the oven in Phoenix? Say August timeframe

Good point. In the summer months in Phoenix it's probably possible to put the headlight on the sidewalk for 20 minutes and get the same result!

I forgot the mention this. You said to get (2) 7440 bulbs and (2) 168 bulbs. I'm not sure what part you are refering to. So there is two bulbs under the amber or did you replace the other bulbs as well? If you did replace the other bulbs outside the amber why? I don't know whats under there yet, so your response would be great. Sorry for my lack of knowledge. Planning to start tommorow. Thanks.

Hope this is in time to help you out...

Both the 168 and 7440 bulbs are under the amber diffuser.

The running light is the smaller bulb in the bottom section under the amber diffuser. It has the 168 designation. (I noted above, though, that the 194 designated bulb works too.)

The turn signal light is the larger bulb in the upper section under the amber diffuser. It thas the 7440 designation. I did not try other bulbs for this socket and simply colored the stock 7440 bulb.

i'm doing bumper removal right now. you noted to tug the bumper off. is this a upward motion? seems like something is stopping me from removing it in the areas under the headlights. i loosened the fender hooks, but seem to have problems under the headlight. thanks again.

Ha ha. Man I had to jerk that bumper off. I got it off. Thanks.

I started today and so far so good. I haven't completed the project because I got caught up on the game (NBA). I will finish up tommorow if I can find those light bulbs. I'm thinking all clear bulbs. Well I took some digital photos. They are not perfect so excuse my skills on this one.

Phase One:

http://www.roxspin.com/images/headlights/mavica.htm

I will take more pictures for the final product. Arnell, very good instructions thanks! By the way, you are right about the alcohol. I'm sipping on a beer after the hard work.

Arnell can't thank you enough for this thread.......FAQ material Schatten....do your job bro!!!! Matt 25 and I started at 12:15 PM today.....Ira came a few minute later for moral suport... and finished at 7:00 PM. If I were to do it again I'd go with 15 minutes in the oven preheated to 225. Did that with the second light and the sucker peeled right back. First was at 225 for 10 minutes and it was a MF'er.....put back in oven. Only other comment would be to bake it at 100 degrees for a few minutes (10) after it's put back together....turn signal and high bulb's removed. Turn the opening up so moisture will vent out. The damp towel is great but introduces some moisture which needs to be driven out in a final heat cycle. I set the lights (one at a time) on a couple of hot mitts at 100 degrees. As for the bumper......when you know all the bolts are out....lift and pull!!!!! Scared the S*** out of me too! But when it comes loose....cool!!!!!!

I was gonna write an FAQ on this but Arnell has done a better job of describing the mod then I ever could. Follow hios directions and you are 90% there..........

Thanks again Arnell!!!!!!

Utah

True about the baking it longer, but I was a chicken $hit to bake it any longer. I just peeled it out. But yeah, follow the instructions and make you own adjustments if needed. Its pretty acurate! Good instructions.

Arnell did a hell of a job writing up this guide. If it wasn't for him UtahS2k and I would probably still be trying to get the bumper off:p It looks great though (especially on Silverstone) and suprisingly enough is not that hard of a mod. Just very labor intensive and time consuming. Like Utah said, this took us a good 7 hours so plan on a whole day affair for this. I will promise you this though that if you do it right you won't regret it one bit. The car looks absolutely amazing with it done. I think I'm next:D

I wouldn't do all clear bulbs, but that's just me. I'm going to do it with orange painted silver bulbs...

Thanks for all the comments. Schatten and Utah both asked if they could use the post to make an FAQ. I told them they could use it in any way that will help. I'm glad I could contribute to the board.

I agree it could use some fine-tuning with some of the suggestions from others. Once that is done it should be 100%! (Utah and Schatten, I'll update it if you'd like - let me know.)

By the way, did anybody catch my Monty Python reference (Holy Hand Grenade)? I don't know why it came to me when I wrote the post.

We just did our's on Saturday.

Things to note:

• No need to remove the HID bulb, high beam bulb, or ballast. You will need the ballast to set on the rack in the overn. Do not worry about overheating anything. The temps in the engine area on a hot day are way higher than 225.
  
• Cook the light at 225 for 20 minutes. This makes the adhesive nice and gooey. You do not need anything other than glove to get it apart. Grab the first clip and the part of the light that is closest to the front. Pull while someone peels back the tabs. Quickly take the lense out and reassemble. The adhesive should be nice and hot still. Push it back together. Let it cool. Reseal around the edges. Except for the extra adhesive, it's a factory look.
  
• The more cars, the better. We had three cars and an asembly line going about 12 hours for three cars including eating, two trips to the store, and several video game breaks; 12 hours for three instead of 6 hours for one.
  
• Put a towel over the edge of the front panel. We put a small scratch in one of the lights.
  
• REPLACE THE BULBS FIRST! We found out the hard way that the bulbs are a bitch to get in after the light is installed. If you do have to replace the lights. Go though the wheel well.
  
• Use lots of adhesive. There have been incidents of condensation in the housing because of a bad seal. It is completely hidden, so go balls out. Don't worry about what Honda will think about it. They know it was opened.

How did we come up with this? Kind of funny. We were doing the brute force of a heat gun and bending the plastic back. Someone had a bright idea of putting it in the oven. We had it at 200 and it worked fine when we pryed. We turn it up to 225 to speed it up a bit. We had some hambergers on the grill and forgot about the light. When we pulled the light out it just fell apart. Much less work. No damage to the light. Very clean.

Here are a couple photos of my cleared lights with the amber turnsignals painted silver and the clear LED running light that turns amber when lit!Mvc-004s.jpg[/PHOTO]Mvc-012s.jpg[/PHOTO]