wildcardtrd

Yup....fixed all my cold start issues. I had to extend my fuel pump prime value to 10 seconds to fully pressurize the rail, and advance my idle timing up a few degrees. Fires up first time, everytime, and idles about 850-950 until warm, where it sits at 1100 comfortably all day long. I can now drive it immediately after start up...no more waiting for the engine to warm up

I sat in my driveway for about 6 hours one saturday, and retuned the crap out of my start and idle load cells. The car runs amazing now.

wildcardtrd

If you go with TWM, be sure to get one of the newer kits. The FPR that comes with the older kits is not vacuum dependant, so makes tuning a biotch. The new ones are much better, from what I hear. I'm running an Aeromotive FPR. It's a very expensive piece, but the quality is 2nd to none.

ITB's don't suck as much air as you'd think they do...bear in mind, at full song, the F20C draws roughly 325 cfm of air. (9000 rpm * 1997 cc) / 2 (4 stroke only draws in air every other revolution). Divide that among 4 runners, you're looking at 81.25 cfm per runner, or a face velocity (based on my throttles being 50mm diameter) of 27.08 feet per minute each(math nerds check my math please). You can't barely feel that amount of airflow. The advantage to ITB's is the even, linear flow of air to each combustion chamber, and the lengthened distance of the injectors from the cylinders. On most ITB kits, the injectors are located almost directly behind the throttle plates. This provides much more plenum volume for the fuel to atomize into the air stream.

As for the quality of the air...you are right, it's not as "cool" or "clean" as a scoop would be right from the front of the car, but based on what I've seen while tuning my car, with the hood vents in place, my IAT's hover between 5 and 20 degrees above ambient, depending on highway cruising or sitting in traffic with my A/C on. Any car guy knows that having IAT's in the 60's and 70's for your engine is the equivalent of giving a redbull to a toddler.

icemans2k02

this is seems pretty awesome and a possibly route since i just sold the supercharger

wildcardtrd

I would like to add a disclaimer to those of you considering ITB's...

They require ALOT of tuning to run right, so make sure you know someone who's GOOD at it.
They require a stand alone ECU. If you get the AEM EMS, your coolant temp readout on the dash will no longer function, and the coolant temp and iat calibration tables that ship with the ecu are wrong, no matter what AEM tells you. You will need to recalibrate them.
No ITB kits are direct bolt-in. None of them. I don't care what they say. You will have to fabricate various pieces to get it all to work. In my case, we had to fabricate a TPS bracket, throttle cable linkage bracket, vacuum block brackets, and fuel lines.

The use of larger injectors are mandatory. Stock injectors simply can't flow enough w/o being pushed into unsafe duty cycles.

Expect to spend 1-2 days install, a few good hours on the dyno, and at least a full day street tuning the part throttle, idle, and startup cells. I'll be more than happy to help anyone out, since I've been though enough pain and agony over getting these right...the knowledge I'd be able to give you will greatly increase your enjoyment of this type of product.

It is NOT an easily reversible project. You may need to cut fuel lines, coolant lines, or extend coolant lines. The dissasembly part of the process will leave you terrified of where all the little misc. bullshit would need to go, should you ever decide to go back. Make sure you only take on this project if you fully know what you are getting into, and realize that it's pretty much a permanent modification. Removing 60 lbs of Prime Honda engineering, and replacing it with 8 lbs of aftermarket engineering, is an unnerving task. Do so at your own risk.

ITBs2k

Not if I have anything to say about it!

ITBs2k

Well put Nate.

This is definetly NOT a walk in the park project. You can ask Nate what I had to go through just to get my car back to me up and running and still not 100%. In the past 6 months I ve had 2 different ITB kits on my car and both had their share of problems during the installation process. No matter what the companies say, THEY ARE NOT A DIRECT BOLT-ON! TWM is very hard to tune especially. Just keeping the car at a good idle was hard in itself. They require much attention and detail during the whole process even after the cars is running. Before I put my TWM ITB kit on (2nd one), I knew I could not go back to stock. The damage that was done to making it back to its original state woulda been costly and a major headache. So I decided to stick with ITBs. If you can accomplish it, you will love it and say it was worth it. Its def. unique and get alot of attention. It just depends how commited you are...and how deep is your wallet.

Nate i Need the diamter of your stacks so I can order your filters.

Roger

wildcardtrd

my stacks are 3 5/8" diameter, Roger.

CwestinAP1

great information wildcardtrd, thanks.

wildcardtrd

np

hcar

The TWMs come with the reguluator attached to a -10 fuel rail you can look at them here http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/T...ody2000-FR.html