AP1 Jozu

Anyone have any recommondations on someone with wrenching experiance in my area of the PNW within a resonable distance or Port Townsend, Washington 98368. I'm two hours and a water crossing to Seattle, so hoping to find someone more local. Thanks

s2000Junky

That's a tough one, other then you I seem to be the only S2000 In port Townsend when I'm over there to visit my Dad, which doesn't help you very much. What kind of work do you need done? Maybe a local mechanic can help... or you might have to make a trip.

AP1 Jozu

Sorry for the delay in replying... my 2002 AP1 is new to me. It's got a clean trail of mechanical records back to new and now with 86k, I'd like to start fresh with flushing all the fluids and (the bigger deal to me) having the intake side retainers and cotters replaced and upgraded to the AP2 type, and while it's open a good valve adjustment.
Is is really the recommended thing on the AP1's to do this upgrade to AP2 valve retainers or have I just been watching the same YouTube vid too many times lol

s2000Junky

The retainers and keepers are a bit beefier on the ap2 so in a severe case of mechanical over rev (miss shift) your more likely to bend a valve rather then drop one entirely, which is better obviously. Its more a recommendation if you track the car or find yourself being a more then spirited driver with inconsistent shifting prowess. Otherwise no its not necessary to have a long lasting and reliable F20. However depending on your comfort level with the previous owner ie; if you know previous driving habits) peace of mind goes a long way, and a full inspection of retainers along with a valve adjustment wouldn't be a bad idea. Retainers tend to crack on the under side, so not always apparent, but can tell if the keepers are showing signs of sinking. That means the retainers are crack and bending/folding under spring pressure. There are several threads with pics of such cases on this website if your not sure what to look for. Plenty of DYI/fluid change info as well.

One other thing you may want to strongly consider, is looking up your engine serial number/manufacture date for the upgraded oil banjo bolts since you have a transition year of this part, which happened sometime in mid 02 manufacturing. There is also threads on this as well if you do some searches. In a nutshell these squirters cool the skirts of your pistons, and have a 2 hole early years and 4 hole later revised years. European cars were the culprit in large part for instigating this change due to higher mph cruising speeds and burning up motors to oil starvation. In primary cam cruising not enough oil was being injected. At sustained high rpm cruising its a problem. If you take frequent long road trips cruising at 4500k/80mph+ you want these updated banjo bolts.

Hope this helps.