cheddaboy

True. Now im not a brake engineer or anything but I would think that if I decided to go with the 12.2 TL rotor from Racing Brake and stick with the stock rear brakes, the brakes would be improved overall. The rear OEM caliper would have 12% increase over the TL rear caliper.
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What this thread is grasping at is the comparison of [rotor radius X piston area X coefficient of pads] for various setups. I labeled the resulting value the "torque factor" for a given brake setup. Those are the primary parameters needed to determine friction torque of the brake system. Anytime one of those variables changes, you need to reassess the torque factor.

If you decrease piston area, increase rotor radius and maintain the same pad material coefficient of friction, the braking torque could remain constant. Looking at the numbers will give you an analytic comparison instead of an educated guess.

Determining the proper rotor radius to use is not as easy as taking the rotor diameter divided by 2. You need to consider where on the rotor the pads will sit. Then you need to determine the centroid of the pad face. Note: centroid does not equal the average of the inner pad radius and outer pad radius. The shape of the pad is important. The distance between the rotation axis and the centroid point is the effective rotor radius.

Using terms and phrases like "brakes would be improved overall", "barely noticeable", etc. are subjective for comparison of braking systems. Show the numbers, test the setups and let the numbers do the talking. Other characteristics you'll want to document are consumable part costs, weight of components, availability of consumables, etc.

If done properly, there are probably some cool brake conversions out there.
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Alot more is involved than I thought lol. I do agree with having some data to show pros/cons. However I WILL try to get some data within the next couple months(probly on a dyno). I will update the first post with more info as we go. Really hope this turns out great!

Thanks for the brakes 101 lesson.

Keith P

It sounds like an adjustable prop valve will fix the biasing. The question still remains if the tl-s calipers are acceptable for our application. Keep in mind you would be putting the left on the right side and the right on the left side. So the calipers will be working in reverse.

cheddaboy

I think it would be best to call/email a couple different brake manufacturers to get the real answer. I'd only be guessing lol. The next update, hopefully with pictures should be in about 2 weeks.

Stay tuned!

User 121020

Also keep in mind the TL-S calipers feature asymmetric pistons. They are designed for a specific rotation direction of the rotor. You probably wouldn't want to mount the "right" caliper on the left side and vice versa.

cheddaboy

Ill have to do some more research on this.

cheddaboy

Im now wondering if its possible to swap the bleeder screw...looks like on the other end theyre just allen plugs

cheddaboy

Still waiting on my calipers.

Figured i'd look for a compatible rear caliper.(will probly tackle this @ a later time if the fronts are successful)

Evo 8/9:
Front disc: 320x32mm
Rear disc: 300x22mm
Front caliper: 4-piston 40/46mm pistons
Rear caliper: 2-piston 40mm pistons(same piston size as oem s2k)

Cons:
-will need thicker vented rear rotor
-will add weight to the rear(would be so bad if it equals out)
-may need to fab a bracket to mount


Quick question.

Is this an optional brake line? Does it have to be used or does it simply transfer fluid to the other side quicker?





Without brake line


[img]

cheddaboy

Okay so i have the caliper and in order for these to work out we will need a 7mm spacer bebind the rotor or shave off 7mm off the mounting points. You can also run a 3mm spacer and shave off 4mm from the mounting points as well.

Will post pictures soon.

*Edit*

1997-2005 Acura NSX front rotor seem to tbe the best choice for rotors. This leaves me with only having to shave off 3.4mm off of the mounting bracket on the caliper(alot safer than the full 7mm). And of course you can always just add a 4mm hubcentric spacer if you didnt want to machine the calipers.

Polaris0352

That brake line you were asking about is critical. It doesn't just get fluid to the other side of the calipers faster, it's the ONLY way fluid gets to the other side of the caliper.

cheddaboy

There must be another way to get fluid to th other side with the TL calipers though. TEyre being ran with hex plugs at the bottom so thats what im confused about.