DIY: Clutch Bleed (Gravity Method)
03-25-2017, 11:09 AM
#81
Made a mistake while bleeding the clutch using this method... I pressed the clutch pedal while it was open. Now the pedal feel very soft and the clutch ils working only near the floor when pushing it.
Seems that I introduced air in the circuit? Should I restart the procedure to resolve the issue or did I damages?
Seems that I introduced air in the circuit? Should I restart the procedure to resolve the issue or did I damages?
03-25-2017, 11:20 AM
#82
Made a mistake while bleeding the clutch using this method... I pressed the clutch pedal while it was open. Now the pedal feel very soft and the clutch ils working only near the floor when pushing it.
Seems that I introduced air in the circuit? Should I restart the procedure to resolve the issue or did I damages?
Seems that I introduced air in the circuit? Should I restart the procedure to resolve the issue or did I damages?
03-30-2017, 12:21 PM
#83
09-20-2019, 12:33 PM
#85
Did this in my '03 with 64k miles (after 2 years of ownership).
My clutch pedal had suddenly gone soft (turned out I'd let the clutch fluid get too low).
My mechanic initially thought it was the master and slave cylinders, which would've cost CAD500 total to replace - on the advice of the good people on this board, I figured I'd try to just bleed the clutch.
Clutch feel is completely back to normal, and it seems to have fixed a slight notchiness to the gear engagement (particularly for reverse).
Engagement point is back up to where it had been before (it had gotten to the point where it was near the floor).
Will be following Billman's 5k clutch fluid replacement cycle to see if I can cure the leak on the CMC.
A million thanks for the DIY!
My clutch pedal had suddenly gone soft (turned out I'd let the clutch fluid get too low).
My mechanic initially thought it was the master and slave cylinders, which would've cost CAD500 total to replace - on the advice of the good people on this board, I figured I'd try to just bleed the clutch.
Clutch feel is completely back to normal, and it seems to have fixed a slight notchiness to the gear engagement (particularly for reverse).
Engagement point is back up to where it had been before (it had gotten to the point where it was near the floor).
Will be following Billman's 5k clutch fluid replacement cycle to see if I can cure the leak on the CMC.
A million thanks for the DIY!
10-19-2019, 11:45 AM
#86
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Hey guys. Here is a quick DIY of a clutch bleed using the same gravity method I used on the brakes.
Here is a link to the brake bleed. DIY: Brake Bleed (Gravity Method)
I've seen people complain or experience difficulty getting the car into gear, the clutch pedal feeling very light, and the engagement point being very low. Good chance you have air in your system. The clutch fluid is something you want to check more often then you do your brake fluid. It evaporates a lot quicker, and may need to be toped off. Make sure you are always checking to make sure it's clean and at the level it needs to be.
Gravity Method: The method I'm using to bleed here is the gravity method. Unlike the brakes, it doesn't take a long time to do this for the clutch. Took me under 10 minute total from start to finish to finish. This method uses the least amount of fluid. You'll be surprised when you are finished. The pedal feels better then it did when the car was brand new! The shifting will feel a lot smoother, and the engagement point in the pedal is right away. No more gear grinds.
Essentially you are just opening up the bleeder and allowing gravity to flush the line for you.
What's needed:
Brake Fluid - Your choice what fluid to use. I use the ATE Super Blue since I had plenty left over after my brake bleed. I would recommend using it either way.
8mm or 5/16 Wrench
Turkey Baster
Short Clear Hose - I've seen some people use very long hoses, and I never understood why. Keep it short and sweet.
Jack and Jack stands - Factory jack is fine to use, but if you have a decent jack around it'll make things faster and easier. I like to use a good pump jack and have a jack stand in place once up for safety.
Funnel
Clean Rag or Towel
Plastic Cup - I know what you're thinking...wtf? I used a plastic cup to catch the fluid while bleeding. You can use anything you like.
Main parts shown below. (Photo taken after bleed had already been completed)
Alright let's get started. The first thing you want to do is remove the cap from the clutch cylinder reservoir(put the cap aside for now as the reservoir will be left open for the duration of the bleed) and begin sucking out the old fluid using the turkey baster. (Pic Below)
Once you get all that old fluid out, grab a clean rag/towel and wipe off any dirt you see inside the reservoir. Make sure it's nice and clean. Once you are done, grab your new brake fluid and fill the reservoir to max. Make sure not to get any on your paint. Using a funnel is the best way to avoid spilling. (Pic Below)
Now time to lift the car. You want to jack the car up from the Left Front of the vehicle using either the factory jack or another jack of your choosing(factory jacking location). I recommend using a jack stands also if you have them. Once up crawl under the car and locate your slave cylinder. You'll see the bleeder on the cylinder with the cap. Remove the rubber cap. (Pic Below)
Grab your clear hose and put one end over the bleeder. Grab your 5/16 wrench and loosen the bleeder. The fluid will begin to come out right away. In my case the clear hose I was using was a little bigger then the bleeder, so it wouldn't hold firmly onto it. However, honda was kind enough to include a nice holding point for your clear hose that will keep it in place over the bleeder. At least this is the way I do it, and easiest way in my opinion. (Pic Below)
While it's bleeding the old fluid out you want to make sure to check the reservoir. The clutch bleeds very quickly, especially if there is air in the system, and you'll want to add more new fluid as it does. Keep the fluid level at Max. Within a minute or two you will start to see the new fluid bleeding out. Mine was a nice rich blue. (Pic Below)
Grab your 5/16 wrench and tighten the bleeder up. Remove the clear hose from the bleeder, and wipe off any excess fluid. Pop the rubber cap back onto the bleeder. Your almost done.
Lower the car to the ground. Grab your new fluid and fill the reservoir to Max. (Pic Below)
Put the reservoir cap back on nice and tight. You're finished!!!
The pedal will feel nice and firm. The engagement point should be much earlier if you had air removed from the line during the bleed. Go for a drive and check out how smooth that transmission shifts.
Even after doing both the brake and clutch bleed, I still always have about 1/3 or more of ATE Super Blue left in the canister.
Hope this helps the DIY'ers out there. All comments and suggestions appreciated.
Here is a link to the brake bleed. DIY: Brake Bleed (Gravity Method)
I've seen people complain or experience difficulty getting the car into gear, the clutch pedal feeling very light, and the engagement point being very low. Good chance you have air in your system. The clutch fluid is something you want to check more often then you do your brake fluid. It evaporates a lot quicker, and may need to be toped off. Make sure you are always checking to make sure it's clean and at the level it needs to be.
Gravity Method: The method I'm using to bleed here is the gravity method. Unlike the brakes, it doesn't take a long time to do this for the clutch. Took me under 10 minute total from start to finish to finish. This method uses the least amount of fluid. You'll be surprised when you are finished. The pedal feels better then it did when the car was brand new! The shifting will feel a lot smoother, and the engagement point in the pedal is right away. No more gear grinds.
Essentially you are just opening up the bleeder and allowing gravity to flush the line for you.
What's needed:
Brake Fluid - Your choice what fluid to use. I use the ATE Super Blue since I had plenty left over after my brake bleed. I would recommend using it either way.
8mm or 5/16 Wrench
Turkey Baster
Short Clear Hose - I've seen some people use very long hoses, and I never understood why. Keep it short and sweet.
Jack and Jack stands - Factory jack is fine to use, but if you have a decent jack around it'll make things faster and easier. I like to use a good pump jack and have a jack stand in place once up for safety.
Funnel
Clean Rag or Towel
Plastic Cup - I know what you're thinking...wtf? I used a plastic cup to catch the fluid while bleeding. You can use anything you like.
Main parts shown below. (Photo taken after bleed had already been completed)
Alright let's get started. The first thing you want to do is remove the cap from the clutch cylinder reservoir(put the cap aside for now as the reservoir will be left open for the duration of the bleed) and begin sucking out the old fluid using the turkey baster. (Pic Below)
Once you get all that old fluid out, grab a clean rag/towel and wipe off any dirt you see inside the reservoir. Make sure it's nice and clean. Once you are done, grab your new brake fluid and fill the reservoir to max. Make sure not to get any on your paint. Using a funnel is the best way to avoid spilling. (Pic Below)
Now time to lift the car. You want to jack the car up from the Left Front of the vehicle using either the factory jack or another jack of your choosing(factory jacking location). I recommend using a jack stands also if you have them. Once up crawl under the car and locate your slave cylinder. You'll see the bleeder on the cylinder with the cap. Remove the rubber cap. (Pic Below)
Grab your clear hose and put one end over the bleeder. Grab your 5/16 wrench and loosen the bleeder. The fluid will begin to come out right away. In my case the clear hose I was using was a little bigger then the bleeder, so it wouldn't hold firmly onto it. However, honda was kind enough to include a nice holding point for your clear hose that will keep it in place over the bleeder. At least this is the way I do it, and easiest way in my opinion. (Pic Below)
While it's bleeding the old fluid out you want to make sure to check the reservoir. The clutch bleeds very quickly, especially if there is air in the system, and you'll want to add more new fluid as it does. Keep the fluid level at Max. Within a minute or two you will start to see the new fluid bleeding out. Mine was a nice rich blue. (Pic Below)
Grab your 5/16 wrench and tighten the bleeder up. Remove the clear hose from the bleeder, and wipe off any excess fluid. Pop the rubber cap back onto the bleeder. Your almost done.
Lower the car to the ground. Grab your new fluid and fill the reservoir to Max. (Pic Below)
Put the reservoir cap back on nice and tight. You're finished!!!
The pedal will feel nice and firm. The engagement point should be much earlier if you had air removed from the line during the bleed. Go for a drive and check out how smooth that transmission shifts.
Even after doing both the brake and clutch bleed, I still always have about 1/3 or more of ATE Super Blue left in the canister.
Hope this helps the DIY'ers out there. All comments and suggestions appreciated.
11-14-2019, 06:27 AM
#89
You can use any off the shelf DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. Often people use whatever they have leftover from brake work. Clutch is a much less demanding application than brakes.
If you use expensive brake fluid it could be worth buying a bottle of more pedestrian stuff for clutch. Otherwise just use whatever you have leftover on the shelf.
If you use expensive brake fluid it could be worth buying a bottle of more pedestrian stuff for clutch. Otherwise just use whatever you have leftover on the shelf.
11-14-2019, 09:43 AM
#90
You can use any off the shelf DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. Often people use whatever they have leftover from brake work. Clutch is a much less demanding application than brakes. If you use expensive brake fluid it could be worth buying a bottle of more pedestrian stuff for clutch. Otherwise just use whatever you have leftover on the shelf.