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OEM swaybars/struts for Autocross

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Old 03-08-2017, 03:45 PM
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Default OEM swaybars/struts for Autocross

Going to do some auto-X this year and want a suspension that will handle better then my current MY02. I am running staggered 17" 225/245. I just picked up a MY00 28mm front sway bar on EBay for a great price. Not sure if I should try this with the current rear sway or go ahead and look for a late model "softer bar".
Also want to eventually change coils to later model specs maybe CR's. Are all S2000 dampers valved the same or should I look for complete struts ? Also do the CR springs work on none CR dampers and do they have a lower ride height? Any help appreciated, don't care about being ultra competitive this year just want to get my feet wet and learn the car. I have had the rear kick out a couple times during aggressive driving requiring some quick counter steering.
Old 03-08-2017, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by C4vettrn
Going to do some auto-X this year and want a suspension that will handle better then my current MY02. I am running staggered 17" 225/245. I just picked up a MY00 28mm front sway bar on EBay for a great price. Not sure if I should try this with the current rear sway or go ahead and look for a late model "softer bar".
Also want to eventually change coils to later model specs maybe CR's. Are all S2000 dampers valved the same or should I look for complete struts ? Also do the CR springs work on none CR dampers and do they have a lower ride height? Any help appreciated, don't care about being ultra competitive this year just want to get my feet wet and learn the car. I have had the rear kick out a couple times during aggressive driving requiring some quick counter steering.

Drive the car stock first and then find out what YOU like or dislike. Its hard to recommend a setup.

I will say that it would be unusual to want a softer (AP2) front bar with an AP1 rear bar. People usually try and snag a MY00-MY01 or CR FRONT bar...and usually an AP2 rear bar or MX5 front bar used in the rear.

But, again, everyone is different.

CR dampers are valved differently. The dampers on most years are also valved differently. Whenever they made a spring rate change, they likely also changed damping rate.

CR springs will not lower the car. They are shorter...but also stiffer. So the ride heights stay the same.

People do note that the CR springs and dampers result in a faster-than-base car, even when used without all the rest of the CR's equipment.

Again...drive it first. Then mod it based on what you like or dislike. They're fast stock. Learn to make the most of your stock setup before moving on...or you'll just be blindly modding it.

Look on S2KI at their autocross community for more pointed advice. But you'll likely hear the above again.
Old 03-08-2017, 06:30 PM
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I would also recommend running at least a whole season first before modding anything. Those that tend to mod first seem to fall into the trap of buying their way into faster times. Believe me I know because I tend to fall into that category. I started out as a beginner with an already somewhat modded car that put me into the STR class and I'm still trying to catch up in times with my friend who runs his s2k in BS.
Old 03-09-2017, 05:30 AM
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I did buy the MY00 28mm front bar and was asking about the softer rear. Maybe I explained wrong, anyway I only gave $45 for so it was worth it just to have on hand. If I can get the same deal on a rear I will probably grab it, I can always sell the popular more sought after bars to get my money back. If I start looking for struts I will look for entire assembly, thanks.
Old 03-09-2017, 07:41 AM
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Of the OEM bars, you'll want the stiffest front and softest rear, at least from a handling balance standpoint. (repeating some information I know, but my two cents) Realistically, you want to get used to the car "as is" at the limit prior to changing things. If you haven't spent a lot of time at autox or tracking the car prior, you haven't been close to the limit. Most people don't even come close to the limit on the street, no matter how fast they think they are, and those that do tend to end up as cautionary tales on YouTube. Once you have a feel for the car, decide what class you want to end up in before you start modifying the car, that way you aren't throwing money at items you can't use for your class or you aren't pigeon-holing yourself into a class that you can't or don't want to spend the money on to be competitive in. Even something as relatively mild as STR can chew a hole in your wallet to fully prep a car (depending on parts chosen).
Old 03-09-2017, 09:48 AM
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Your new front bar is virtually same as cr front bar. If you go with cr coils (shocks and springs), you will be close to cr suspension setup, except, as you mentioned, the rear bar.

Your current rear bar is stiffer than cr. An ap2 rear bar will be softer than cr.

Plugging these specs into my wheel rate calculator, I get:

'00 front bar, cr springs, '02 rear bar:
F58.6%, R41.4%

'00 front bar, cr springs, ap2 rear bar:
F60.2%, R39.8%

'00 front bar, '02 springs, '02 rear bar:
F54.6%, R45.4%

'00 front bar, '02 springs, ap2 rear bar:
F56.3%, R43.7%

Stock '02: (where you are now)
F51.3%, R48.7%

Stock cr: (where it seems you want to end up)
F59.2%, R40.8%

So even without the cr shocks, just changing front bar will go a long way. Then also changing rear bar to ap2 will bring you a little closer. I suggest making one change at a time, and see if its enough.
Old 03-09-2017, 01:17 PM
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Wow, great info guy's. Yes, I am shooting for a CR setup a little at a time as they come available. I think this will give me something to shoot for and not a lot of $ plus is already a proven setup. Couple questions.

1.) What do most S2000 auto-x guys shoot for as far as front/rear percentages ?
2.) What size tires do the CR's come with, 225/255 ?
3.) Will an Apexi-Neo or Koni Yellow's put me in another class above stock?

I want to stay in the stock class if possible. Currently my only mods are CAI, TP with vibrant-Y and UK mod. Also put a new clutch in this winter with the ACT high pressure plate. New EBC cryoed rotors and not sure what pads but they don't have a lot of initial bite so they will be replaced before long with maybe some Hawks ? I run the HP's on my Vette and was happy other then horrible dusting.

Last edited by C4vettrn; 03-09-2017 at 01:27 PM.
Old 03-09-2017, 02:50 PM
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1.) Stiffer front bar (much higher than any OEM option) whether you're running B-Street or STR. Balance is going to be a matter of driver preference/driving style and what springs you have. If you're aiming for B-Street, a Karcepts FSB would be my recommendation as it will go much higher than OEM and will give you the tuneability to find your sweet spot and it is something you could carry over to STR if you wanted to go further. (I run STR and have Karcepts front and rear with the front set at 947 lbs/in and the rear set at 164 lbs/in, but I'm also on a square setup with 255 tires.)

2.) CRs come with 215/255 stock.

3.) B-Street allows you to change out shocks (can't be more than 2-way adjustable), but you cannot touch the perch height or springs. (Pgs. 73-75 of the 2016 rule book covers it. (62-64 for 2017still draft I believe))
Old 03-09-2017, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by C4vettrn
I did buy the MY00 28mm front bar and was asking about the softer rear. Maybe I explained wrong, anyway I only gave $45 for so it was worth it just to have on hand. If I can get the same deal on a rear I will probably grab it, I can always sell the popular more sought after bars to get my money back. If I start looking for struts I will look for entire assembly, thanks.
You were clear. I just mis read your post. I also thought I was replying to a honda tech post...which is why I suggested you look at S2ki.

I must have been deep....DEEP in space.
Old 03-09-2017, 07:55 PM
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Stock cr tire size is 215/255, BUT, that was with the stock RE070. Those rears didn't come in 245, and the section width was a little narrower than the RE050 which were stock tires on the standard S. Comparing section width of 255 070 with 245 050, the section widths are similar. So it could be argued the correct tire sizing to mimic cr front rear balance with most tires would be the same 215/245 that is stock on standard S.

With most tires, 215/255 sizing would leave you oversized in rear compared to stock cr tires.


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