JamesD89

I'm going to be swapping springs on my coil overs next weekend and figured I'd replace/clean some other parts while the shocks are off the car. I have a few questions:

1. Is there some sort of formula I can use to estimate my ride height for a given shock length? I know the standard DFV setting of 536/420mm front/rear should give you a ride height that's approximately 25mm lower than stock. Since I plan on raising my car a little bit I'd like to figure out how long to set up the shock bodies before putting them on the car.

2. I've never installed coil overs before, just removed them (stripping cars is fun...). I know I'm supposed to clock the suspension bushings before torquing everything down, but I'm not 100% sure on how to do this. Jack the wheel up to ride height? Higher? Which bushings should I focus on? I understand why this needs to be done, but none of the tutorials I've watched so far have included this step.

3. Do you guys replace the locking nuts on your alignment bolts every time you align the car? Or ever? I'm about to order new bolts and I'm tempted to order spare lock nuts if it's necessary.

noodels

Thread rate of the dfv is 1.5mm one turn will raise or lower 1.5mm

bgoetz

This thread is your friend, preload proper

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-br...nside-1166830/

JamesD89

Yep, I'm shooting for 9mm of preload in the rear with 10k springs. Most likely going to have to raise my car a bit which will hopefully be offset by the RCAs I'm installing.

bgoetz

that is exactly what I am setting up on mine. We came up with around 20mm drop with 10k springs 9mm preload. They sent me measurements for the front to match that, but I have front RCAs that I just use as extended ball joints (no RCA plates) which were accounted for. IMO 20mm drop on this car should good, beyond that is pure aesthetics. If I wanted lower I would buy their lower mounts vs the rear RCAs.

JamesD89

If the ball joints are extended, and you have to account for them in your ride height calculations, then I'm fairly certain they've changed your roll center.

I'm shooting for around 25-30mm after the RCA install. I'll be fine with 20mm if that's all I can get though-more fender clearance for the upgrade to 255s from 245s

ZDan

One turn will change the length of the coilover by 1.5mm, but this will raise or lower the car by more than that, by a factor of one over the motion ratio. Motion ratios for the S2k are ~0.70 IIRC, so 1.5mm at the coilover results in 1.5mm/0.70 = 2.1mm change in ride height.

Car Analogy

To clock a bushing, you want the car level, at ride height, with that corner supported by the suspension, not the frame.

Ideally the car would be on a lift, with all 4 tires on the 'ground' of the lift, and you'd then tighten the bushing bolts (CA's, lower shock mount, etc).

Since most of us don't have such a lift, the typical way is car level on stands, then floor jack under that corners lower CA, lifting until that corner just barely fully unloads off that corners jack stand.

The problem is now that corner is a little less stable, and you're going to crawl under there and wrench hard on those bolts. Not the safest thing in the world.

I try to stay off to side as much as possible, only arms under the car. Long socket handles/torque wrench. Be careful here!

JamesD89

^That's exactly what I was looking for, thanks.

Which bushing bolts would I have to tighten to clock? Everything, or just the bolts I loosen to remove the shocks?

bgoetz

An aftermarket adjustable ball joint does slightly change your roll center, but not nearly like adding the plates on. I had SakeBomb give me the target numbers for the front pre-installed shocks with the ball joints accounted for. But that should only effect the fronts correct? A front extended ball joint wouldn't cause the rear to sit higher would it?