Square Ohlins DFV Damper and Sway Settings?
10-06-2016, 01:41 PM
#1
Square Ohlins DFV Damper and Sway Settings?
For those of you running Ohlins DFV's on the track with a square setup, what springs, sway bars, and damper settings are you running?
I am transitioning to DFV's and 255's and trying to figure out where to start.
It looks like most people are going 12k/10k on the springs.
For what it is worth, I use my car for about 50/50 street/track
Cheers!
I am transitioning to DFV's and 255's and trying to figure out where to start.
It looks like most people are going 12k/10k on the springs.
For what it is worth, I use my car for about 50/50 street/track
Cheers!
10-06-2016, 03:12 PM
#2
Start with the 10/8 and go from there.
I'm using 10/8 stock springs with my 255 square setup. Prior to that, I was on 12/10 with KW V3's. Always ran stock MY00 bars. Never tried disconnecting one or using different bars
Without aero....for me...the 10/8 seems a teeeeeeeeeeeny bit faster and easier to drive than 12/10.
I'm using 10/8 stock springs with my 255 square setup. Prior to that, I was on 12/10 with KW V3's. Always ran stock MY00 bars. Never tried disconnecting one or using different bars
Without aero....for me...the 10/8 seems a teeeeeeeeeeeny bit faster and easier to drive than 12/10.
10-06-2016, 04:40 PM
#3
I have used normal DFVs with 10kg/10kg HyperCo springs, and my current custom valved DFVs with 13kg/13kg Swift springs. I used the 10kg/10kg setup with both a 225/255 staggered setup and 255/255 square setups and OEM 06 sway bars as well as 3-way adjustable ASM sway bars.
The current 13kg/13kg setup I have only used with 255/255 tires. I have driven a car with DFVs and the normal 10kg/8kg springs and I definitely prefer 10kg/10kg to that personally. More neutral for me and better transition to oversteer. I like the current 13kg/13kg setup the most because on high grip tracks with the current high grip street tires available the car was taking a little longer than I wanted to transition from side to side and front to back.
All that said, you won't know what you want until you have a starting point. I would just start with 10/8 as suggested and develop it from there. If you know you prefer a car that can rotate more on entry then you might try starting with a 10/10. In my opinion the 10/10 setup is easier to drive, less prone to snapping, and generally easier to tell what the rear end is doing. But it all comes down to driving style and personal preference.
The current 13kg/13kg setup I have only used with 255/255 tires. I have driven a car with DFVs and the normal 10kg/8kg springs and I definitely prefer 10kg/10kg to that personally. More neutral for me and better transition to oversteer. I like the current 13kg/13kg setup the most because on high grip tracks with the current high grip street tires available the car was taking a little longer than I wanted to transition from side to side and front to back.
All that said, you won't know what you want until you have a starting point. I would just start with 10/8 as suggested and develop it from there. If you know you prefer a car that can rotate more on entry then you might try starting with a 10/10. In my opinion the 10/10 setup is easier to drive, less prone to snapping, and generally easier to tell what the rear end is doing. But it all comes down to driving style and personal preference.
10-07-2016, 04:38 PM
#4
I have used normal DFVs with 10kg/10kg HyperCo springs, and my current custom valved DFVs with 13kg/13kg Swift springs. I used the 10kg/10kg setup with both a 225/255 staggered setup and 255/255 square setups and OEM 06 sway bars as well as 3-way adjustable ASM sway bars.
The current 13kg/13kg setup I have only used with 255/255 tires. I have driven a car with DFVs and the normal 10kg/8kg springs and I definitely prefer 10kg/10kg to that personally. More neutral for me and better transition to oversteer. I like the current 13kg/13kg setup the most because on high grip tracks with the current high grip street tires available the car was taking a little longer than I wanted to transition from side to side and front to back.
All that said, you won't know what you want until you have a starting point. I would just start with 10/8 as suggested and develop it from there. If you know you prefer a car that can rotate more on entry then you might try starting with a 10/10. In my opinion the 10/10 setup is easier to drive, less prone to snapping, and generally easier to tell what the rear end is doing. But it all comes down to driving style and personal preference.
The current 13kg/13kg setup I have only used with 255/255 tires. I have driven a car with DFVs and the normal 10kg/8kg springs and I definitely prefer 10kg/10kg to that personally. More neutral for me and better transition to oversteer. I like the current 13kg/13kg setup the most because on high grip tracks with the current high grip street tires available the car was taking a little longer than I wanted to transition from side to side and front to back.
All that said, you won't know what you want until you have a starting point. I would just start with 10/8 as suggested and develop it from there. If you know you prefer a car that can rotate more on entry then you might try starting with a 10/10. In my opinion the 10/10 setup is easier to drive, less prone to snapping, and generally easier to tell what the rear end is doing. But it all comes down to driving style and personal preference.
10-07-2016, 09:01 PM
#5
Originally Posted by andrewhake' timestamp='1475800800' post='24078471
I have used normal DFVs with 10kg/10kg HyperCo springs, and my current custom valved DFVs with 13kg/13kg Swift springs. I used the 10kg/10kg setup with both a 225/255 staggered setup and 255/255 square setups and OEM 06 sway bars as well as 3-way adjustable ASM sway bars.
The current 13kg/13kg setup I have only used with 255/255 tires. I have driven a car with DFVs and the normal 10kg/8kg springs and I definitely prefer 10kg/10kg to that personally. More neutral for me and better transition to oversteer. I like the current 13kg/13kg setup the most because on high grip tracks with the current high grip street tires available the car was taking a little longer than I wanted to transition from side to side and front to back.
All that said, you won't know what you want until you have a starting point. I would just start with 10/8 as suggested and develop it from there. If you know you prefer a car that can rotate more on entry then you might try starting with a 10/10. In my opinion the 10/10 setup is easier to drive, less prone to snapping, and generally easier to tell what the rear end is doing. But it all comes down to driving style and personal preference.
The current 13kg/13kg setup I have only used with 255/255 tires. I have driven a car with DFVs and the normal 10kg/8kg springs and I definitely prefer 10kg/10kg to that personally. More neutral for me and better transition to oversteer. I like the current 13kg/13kg setup the most because on high grip tracks with the current high grip street tires available the car was taking a little longer than I wanted to transition from side to side and front to back.
All that said, you won't know what you want until you have a starting point. I would just start with 10/8 as suggested and develop it from there. If you know you prefer a car that can rotate more on entry then you might try starting with a 10/10. In my opinion the 10/10 setup is easier to drive, less prone to snapping, and generally easier to tell what the rear end is doing. But it all comes down to driving style and personal preference.
10-17-2016, 03:33 PM
#6
If you run the numbers I really wouldn't reccomend running the 8k springs on the rear. There is a lot of information around s2ki about the lack of stroke on the rear damper. With the 8k spring and a small amount of preload you will be touching the bumpstop once the car is on the ground. It's true that the stock setup uses the bumpstops a lot but the bumpstop that Öhlins includes isnt designed to be used like that. By the time you've added enough preload to get off the bumpstop you won't be able to get the car very low as the lower mount is pretty wasteful of space. I'd reccomend at least 10k in the rear otherwise you will just end up having to re do everything. It's a shame Öhlins couldn't find a way to get a bit more stroke in the rear damper as it's a great setup otherwise.
Check out Gernby's thread, he talks about the lack of stroke on the rear damper:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/958...-coilover-kit/
Check out Gernby's thread, he talks about the lack of stroke on the rear damper:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/958...-coilover-kit/
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10-17-2016, 07:56 PM
#9
I'm not seeing anything in that thread that disagrees. You can add enough preload to get the bumpstop clearance but you will run out of adjustment in the lower mount. The higher spring rate will not compress as far but you also don't need as much bumpstop clearance as it also wont compress as much while hitting a bump.
If you are running 14k+ spring rates then everything would be great with the limited stroke, thats what the TTX/Penske etc have. The issue is that the DFV is the stroke of a TTX without the high spring rates. I'm not saying you can make them work, its just a shame that they did't put a longer stroke rear damper as they probably could have based on the lower mount design.
If you are running 14k+ spring rates then everything would be great with the limited stroke, thats what the TTX/Penske etc have. The issue is that the DFV is the stroke of a TTX without the high spring rates. I'm not saying you can make them work, its just a shame that they did't put a longer stroke rear damper as they probably could have based on the lower mount design.
10-17-2016, 08:11 PM
#10
We’ve been looking into this after going through the DFV setup process on one of our shop cars and found similar things. After doing some investigating we determined that we could fit a significantly longer stroke damper in the rear without losing any ride height adjustment. Can't say too much yet 
but we should be ready for an announcement soon. So far looks like we will be able fit to 7-8k minimal preload required.
Our goal is also to make some parts to help the people with the original kit get lower as well so they have additional flexibility.
but we should be ready for an announcement soon. So far looks like we will be able fit to 7-8k minimal preload required.Our goal is also to make some parts to help the people with the original kit get lower as well so they have additional flexibility.
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Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
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- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit