SS Braided Lines - Poor Pedal Feel and handbrake light on
10-10-2016, 05:51 AM
#11
OP, you have air in the lines. Try gravity bleed at this point. Don't let MC get low. No pumping, just connect a bleeder hose to each caliper, and let it drain.
You can also do the press in caliper piston too, with bleeder loose. Also tilt caliper around slowly so any air trapped in a cavity can slip out.
Its ironic that people buy ss lines for better brake feel, and often end up with worse.
You can also do the press in caliper piston too, with bleeder loose. Also tilt caliper around slowly so any air trapped in a cavity can slip out.
Its ironic that people buy ss lines for better brake feel, and often end up with worse.
10-10-2016, 06:57 AM
#12
Moderator
I concur. Sounds like there's still air in there. Gravity bleed is the best way to go. Run 1/4 qt of fluid through each line to be sure. I usually will use a whole quart for a full bleed.
10-10-2016, 07:28 AM
#13
I recently swapped the factory lines to StopTech SS lines. Bled the system thoroughly. Pedal felt like garbage.
Here is the process that got me a rock hard pedal (so to speak)
1) Replaced lines
2) Bled huge amount of air out of the system, no apparent air remaining.
3) Test drive, awful pedal
4) Start car, drive the front wheels up onto some wood or jack the car up to raise the nose 4-5", fully depress brake pedal, block it fully depressed with a 2x4, shut off the car, disconnect negative battery terminal
5) Wait 12 hours, unblock pedal, reconnect battery, pedal got 80% better
6) Drive for 20 min, get some good heat in the brakes, multiple ABS engagements
7) Rebleed all 4 corners, pulled about a 1/2" air bubble out of each rear
8) Repeat step 4
9) I repeated step 6, 7, and 4 again for the hell of it, didn't get any air out during the bleed.
Now I couldn't be happier with the pedal feel.
Compliments to Billman for the pedal "blocking" procedure.
Here is the process that got me a rock hard pedal (so to speak)
1) Replaced lines
2) Bled huge amount of air out of the system, no apparent air remaining.
3) Test drive, awful pedal
4) Start car, drive the front wheels up onto some wood or jack the car up to raise the nose 4-5", fully depress brake pedal, block it fully depressed with a 2x4, shut off the car, disconnect negative battery terminal
5) Wait 12 hours, unblock pedal, reconnect battery, pedal got 80% better
6) Drive for 20 min, get some good heat in the brakes, multiple ABS engagements
7) Rebleed all 4 corners, pulled about a 1/2" air bubble out of each rear
8) Repeat step 4
9) I repeated step 6, 7, and 4 again for the hell of it, didn't get any air out during the bleed.
Now I couldn't be happier with the pedal feel.
Compliments to Billman for the pedal "blocking" procedure.
10-10-2016, 06:36 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hi,
Thanks for the all info.
I have found a leak in my front right where the banjo bolt is. Found some spots of fluid on the inside of the rim...
Will need to sort this out first before doing the methods suggested.
Thanks for the all info.
I have found a leak in my front right where the banjo bolt is. Found some spots of fluid on the inside of the rim...
Will need to sort this out first before doing the methods suggested.
10-10-2016, 09:02 PM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
I recently swapped the factory lines to StopTech SS lines. Bled the system thoroughly. Pedal felt like garbage.
Here is the process that got me a rock hard pedal (so to speak)
1) Replaced lines
2) Bled huge amount of air out of the system, no apparent air remaining.
3) Test drive, awful pedal
4) Start car, drive the front wheels up onto some wood or jack the car up to raise the nose 4-5", fully depress brake pedal, block it fully depressed with a 2x4, shut off the car, disconnect negative battery terminal
5) Wait 12 hours, unblock pedal, reconnect battery, pedal got 80% better
6) Drive for 20 min, get some good heat in the brakes, multiple ABS engagements
7) Rebleed all 4 corners, pulled about a 1/2" air bubble out of each rear
8) Repeat step 4
9) I repeated step 6, 7, and 4 again for the hell of it, didn't get any air out during the bleed.
Now I couldn't be happier with the pedal feel.
Compliments to Billman for the pedal "blocking" procedure.
Here is the process that got me a rock hard pedal (so to speak)
1) Replaced lines
2) Bled huge amount of air out of the system, no apparent air remaining.
3) Test drive, awful pedal
4) Start car, drive the front wheels up onto some wood or jack the car up to raise the nose 4-5", fully depress brake pedal, block it fully depressed with a 2x4, shut off the car, disconnect negative battery terminal
5) Wait 12 hours, unblock pedal, reconnect battery, pedal got 80% better
6) Drive for 20 min, get some good heat in the brakes, multiple ABS engagements
7) Rebleed all 4 corners, pulled about a 1/2" air bubble out of each rear
8) Repeat step 4
9) I repeated step 6, 7, and 4 again for the hell of it, didn't get any air out during the bleed.
Now I couldn't be happier with the pedal feel.
Compliments to Billman for the pedal "blocking" procedure.
10-11-2016, 07:37 AM
#17
Originally Posted by Z32MadMan
Did you use new crush washers whe you installed the line?
Raising the nose helps evacuate air to the master cylinder.
Raising the nose helps evacuate air to the master cylinder.
10-11-2016, 02:37 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
I used the new washers that came with the kit. I've tightened it more and in the last 24 hours and there doesn't seem to be an drips on the inside of the rim but will check more thoroughly over the weekend.
10-11-2016, 02:52 PM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
One more question (unlikely lol) in regards to bleeding since my car is RHD. I still follow the below order?
Master Cylinder is on Drivers side
Front Passenger Side
Front Driver Side
Rear Driver Side
Rear Passenger Side
Cheers
Master Cylinder is on Drivers side
Front Passenger Side
Front Driver Side
Rear Driver Side
Rear Passenger Side
Cheers
10-17-2016, 01:54 PM
#20
-Heath
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SAKEBOMB GARAGE > Click here to contact Us
Check some of our most popular products for the S2000:
- Ohlins DFV Billet Lower Mount
- Rear BBK RX-8 Caliper Conversion
- Front BBK AP Competition
- Setrab Oil Cooler Kit