MorngWoodStewie

An1 willing to look at a datalog, its not smooth infact I did a little bit more buffing after I took this and forgot to save the last one.
Will my stewie live Lol?
Im doing a little extra ontop of what this guy did and gave up after my clutch started slipping on sunday.
theres still partial throttle that wasnt nailed down I felt. I couldnt get it to slip again either until the very last run I did tonight
when I really started getting the afrs on tgt.

Please answer with some educated reasoning on what needs to be fixed, you can flame me if you want but Im just trying to learn
no audible knocks and cant seem to get the sensor to read anymore now after today trimming fuel #4 its a working progress I guess at this point. Let me rephrase that there was no audio knock but the sensor was still reading like 1 or 2 after a full throttle 2 shift run, once I trimmed some into #4 it stopped counting onesy's twosie's and the day IT did audibly knock was with the tuner in the car right b4 clutch slipped and I noticed he trimmed some into #3 and pulled another .75 timing or so from entire low side. But I would still get the sensor picking some up on 4 so today during my own endeavors I trimmed some into #4 didnt touch timing tho. and it stopped counting.

it pulls and feels great, no smoke sounds healthy. Ill check plugs tom. after a pull and update. I checked them the other day after I had that guy tuning it but I pulled them after I rode home cruising and then pulling into my driveway n stuff so I dont think that counts to much. The very bottom deck was sooty the porcelain was clean white with black ring not even quarter inch down porcelain electrode very clean and hook thing was clean but with grayish white tint on it which lead me to believe it was running lean, Im thinking it was during the low throttle drive to my parking stall tho. cause soot at the very bottom of threads and then black ring that close to electrode tells me its rich.


Thank You for any input, comments, your time is appreciated. Already sent map and log to another that said he would look but never got back to me.

Edited: I chose file and attached but I dont see it. If you PM me I email it Thanks.

Jin_SK

So just to make sure we all understand, the car isn't done being tuned because you need a new clutch right?

MorngWoodStewie

Chyess it only won't hold wot tho. Isn't drivability and partial throttle tunable still tho?

Jin_SK

Typically drivability related stuff gets fine tuned off the dyno for accuracy, driver preference etc (in my experience). How much time did you spend tuning? On a related note, WHO is tuning your car?

MorngWoodStewie

Well we stuck with FLSHPRO ID1k base cal. cause it was already running smooth, we did some tip in live tuning for like 10 minutes, and then we did like 3 pulls and some adjustment and then clutch started slipping he said just streeting around and cruising were all good tho. we just didnt get high side completely nailed down because of the slip and I feel the only problem was it was going pig rich the timing is still considerably conservative, but that just sounds really fast to me :/ it cant be this easy Lol Im not buying it. So I spent the rest of yesterday and last night live tuning the tables into the 11:5 range is not stupid smooth I make adjustment rich if there above 12:2 and start leaning them out if there below 11:08 11:18 These were all just datalog pulls live tuning with my friend driving.

^^^^^^Those #'s are for like 2 psi and up half throttle to full. tip in is weird with this manifold -17 to about 0.1 they go from 14:xx, 13:xx, 12:xx
Never read about this but even tho Map is still being in negative I realized even in that range; I hit atmospheric pressure alot faster so even out of boost the turbo is still pushing air in so not sure how I deal with that, afr Im trying to go 12:5 for 0lbs 12:2 @ 1lbs leading into 11:5 from rest but like I said its not smooth right now itll go 11:2x 11,8x 11.55 10:98 and thats what I did yesterday lean out the 10 areas to 11 and rich the 12's But the whole thing was 10:98 for boost side, only 12 areas were tip in and negatives so I guess it helped

Comments concerns, tips, knowledge. Id rather have a solid drivable platform then just tune for WOT anyways so fine tuning these would be nice and most dynos wont spend the time to fine tune its frustrating so maybe if I can do this and then dyno WOT and dyno my timing ill get faster end results. Derftuned said my map looked extremely scary to say the least. But I have no smoking, no hesitation, no popping, no jerks, no knock counts, seems to be pretty up in power seeing the clutch isnt holding. Smooth to.

I feel like Im not gonna get the answer Im looking for and just need to read, but I appreciate your feedback hope I answered your question.


Q:A:
Anyone else targeting 11:5?

Jin_SK

Do you have experience tuning S2000's? Does your tuner? It's going to be a bit tough to get solid advice without posting a calibration, and then there's only a small handful of people who know what they're doing (not me). If there's one single thing you cannot compromise on for a boosted setup it's the tune. All the best high quality parts don't do anything for you if it isn't done right. I would be surprised if your tuner still wanted to work on it after you were messing around with the calibration. More to the point, there's no reason to do anything more until you have a new clutch put in. Swap it in, take it back in to finish tuning. Then ask to do some part throttle, driving to make sure you are satisfied with how it drives. This doesn't need to be done on a dyno, and your tuner really ought to be doing that type of work for free.

s2000Junky

Turbochargers quiet the exhaust down a lot. Your S with factory exhaust is going to sound like a big vacuum leak on a 1983 Chevy impala when you floor it lol Hisssssss

A decent 70mm dual may not be as bad as you think. But at least ditch the Cat, if your going to stay stock, it will be a serious obstruction if you don't, and especially when it melts down 6 months from now from all the added heat and then you cant figure out why you lost a bunch of power one day and cooked all your exhaust valves or pistons from extreme EGT.

MorngWoodStewie

Sos 70mm test pipe already installed

MorngWoodStewie

Thnx, Jin dually noted.

s2000Junky

Just a general rule here with regard to timing on this engine, you might want to locate a map of the stock timing map at WOT and then over lay that with where your at along with the implementation of reducing 1psi per 1lb of boost and get an idea of where your lining up. For example, the stock timing advance at 6k rpm is 30 degrees total advance, and your making 15psi at 6k rpm, you should be around 15 degrees total advance at that rpm. This is merely a starting point and for reference, and monitoring knock and power output response to timing changes has to be monitored on a dyno.

Afr should be stoich/14.7 target at idle and bellow 25% throttle/vac generally, and from 0 vac to just bellow you should enrich fuel to 13-13.5afr and once you see positive pressure you will want to enrich again, 12.5 - 11.5afr is the range. Leaner at lower boost is generally best, and richer for safety as your boost reaches the bulk of its peak amount. I generally like to shoot for 11.8-12 at peak boost.