07 S2k SOS TS MAX build
06-22-2016, 10:11 PM
#21
Just a general rule here with regard to timing on this engine, you might want to locate a map of the stock timing map at WOT and then over lay that with where your at along with the implementation of reducing 1psi per 1lb of boost and get an idea of where your lining up. For example, the stock timing advance at 6k rpm is 30 degrees total advance, and your making 15psi at 6k rpm, you should be around 15 degrees total advance at that rpm. This is merely a starting point and for reference, and monitoring knock and power output response to timing changes has to be monitored on a dyno.
Afr should be stoich/14.7 target at idle and bellow 25% throttle/vac generally, and from 0 vac to just bellow you should enrich fuel to 13-13.5afr and once you see positive pressure you will want to enrich again, 12.5 - 11.5afr is the range. Leaner at lower boost is generally best, and richer for safety as your boost reaches the bulk of its peak amount. I generally like to shoot for 11.8-12 at peak boost.
Afr should be stoich/14.7 target at idle and bellow 25% throttle/vac generally, and from 0 vac to just bellow you should enrich fuel to 13-13.5afr and once you see positive pressure you will want to enrich again, 12.5 - 11.5afr is the range. Leaner at lower boost is generally best, and richer for safety as your boost reaches the bulk of its peak amount. I generally like to shoot for 11.8-12 at peak boost.
Also yes I did compare stock equivalent timing maps high n low to my timing maps high and low and it is retarded -1.50 per lb at this time.
06-23-2016, 12:02 AM
#23
In case it is the hose connecting to actual pump probably more important where did you buy your walbro from?
I got a genuine from SOS and it was a tight effin fit to get that bottom snap-on clamp holder hanger thing back on lol.
06-23-2016, 05:45 AM
#24
As Junky said, the best way to tune is to use the stock map and just alter the timing in boost. 1 degree per psi sounds VERY conservative, and the issue you can get into when pulling too much timing is very high EGT's. I'd highly recommend any turbo car to run an EGT gauge. On that note, it's definitely better to be a little conservative than too aggressive with timing, but somewhere between .5 degree/lb of boost and 1 degree/lb of boost will probably be your sweet spot on pump gas. I'd try to talk to other turbo guys and see what they're running and how their timing curves compare. Many people likely won't share the details of their tune with you but I'm sure you can find some folks..
06-23-2016, 06:27 AM
#25
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As Junky said, the best way to tune is to use the stock map and just alter the timing in boost. 1 degree per psi sounds VERY conservative, and the issue you can get into when pulling too much timing is very high EGT's. I'd highly recommend any turbo car to run an EGT gauge. On that note, it's definitely better to be a little conservative than too aggressive with timing, but somewhere between .5 degree/lb of boost and 1 degree/lb of boost will probably be your sweet spot on pump gas. I'd try to talk to other turbo guys and see what they're running and how their timing curves compare. Many people likely won't share the details of their tune with you but I'm sure you can find some folks..
06-23-2016, 06:57 AM
#26
I stand corrected.. I guess ~1 degree/psi is probably a good starting point as Junky said. One thing to keep in mind as well OP is that turbos/manifolds/setup/flow will obviously affect the timing curve..
Do you run a little race gas at the track Tut? I guess you aren't beating on it for whole sessions which I'm sure helps.
Do you run a little race gas at the track Tut? I guess you aren't beating on it for whole sessions which I'm sure helps.
06-23-2016, 07:58 AM
#27
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I stand corrected.. I guess ~1 degree/psi is probably a good starting point as Junky said. One thing to keep in mind as well OP is that turbos/manifolds/setup/flow will obviously affect the timing curve..
Do you run a little race gas at the track Tut? I guess you aren't beating on it for whole sessions which I'm sure helps.
Do you run a little race gas at the track Tut? I guess you aren't beating on it for whole sessions which I'm sure helps.
06-27-2016, 03:31 PM
#28
Alright guys balladesport FI turbo clutch ordered, hopefully start it Fri. Night and be tuned sat. Sunday timeframe, I just looked up the diy and I think I really should have done at the same time or b4 lol hopefully I can weasle it in there without taking to much of it apart. Will also be a good time to recap on nuts and bolts and inspect after dding it for the last two weeks. I am quite surprised by the lack of leak Gremlins and most things I read about so an inspection b4 tune will be good. But wish me luck dyno day this weekend.
I'll deffly have four jackstanfs to ease installation shouldn't be to bad.
I'll deffly have four jackstanfs to ease installation shouldn't be to bad.
07-02-2016, 10:07 AM
#29
Clutch in! :Tired: some words of advice for the two top bell housing bolts use 1/2" extensions, ratchet, n stuff. 3/8s flexes to much you'll never break the bolt loose.
And if u have a giant turbo in the way and can't get to engine mounts and still can't get to those bolts, I loosened the 6 subframe bolts (19mm) it was needed to get to the passenger top bolt, drivers is accessible but for the other one and having some extra clearance helped in the end. Hope this helps, thank you to all the diy instructionals it would of took me the weekend lol to get everything sorted.
First impressions the pedal is softer then stock which is somewhat relieving lol but hopefully does not effect performance, engagement is around the middle of pedal throw distance n grabs pretty progressively I have some experience with puck style disks and this beats out my ACT 6 puck hands down.
My buddy put a stage 3 something in his ap1 and it's one of those nothing, nothing, nothing last inch of pedal engages. Personally I can't stand those.
Honda urea grease and Honda mtf made the first drive feel like the drivetrain was brand new and then with the pedal feel I was getting, it was almost like it loosened the tweaky feel/character of the car it was niice lol felt like I could relax in the driver's seat and then at the same time you kno it's smooth butter and power is just a push away.
Took me and a friend 8hrs including the drive back for another set of 1/2" tools cause we were done playing around!
Edit:cel gone, forgot to plug in the sensor on valve cover
I do have a cel on now, it was to late to hook up anything and or diagnose it, but hopefully it's something stupid and figure it out later today. Stay tuned for dyno figures as well hopefully this weekend. Think that was about it, thanks the read and comments guys n gals.
Oh! N after inspection my Canton is leaking from rear passenger area and the NPT drain bolt and yes it's tight
And if u have a giant turbo in the way and can't get to engine mounts and still can't get to those bolts, I loosened the 6 subframe bolts (19mm) it was needed to get to the passenger top bolt, drivers is accessible but for the other one and having some extra clearance helped in the end. Hope this helps, thank you to all the diy instructionals it would of took me the weekend lol to get everything sorted.
First impressions the pedal is softer then stock which is somewhat relieving lol but hopefully does not effect performance, engagement is around the middle of pedal throw distance n grabs pretty progressively I have some experience with puck style disks and this beats out my ACT 6 puck hands down.
My buddy put a stage 3 something in his ap1 and it's one of those nothing, nothing, nothing last inch of pedal engages. Personally I can't stand those.
Honda urea grease and Honda mtf made the first drive feel like the drivetrain was brand new and then with the pedal feel I was getting, it was almost like it loosened the tweaky feel/character of the car it was niice lol felt like I could relax in the driver's seat and then at the same time you kno it's smooth butter and power is just a push away.
Took me and a friend 8hrs including the drive back for another set of 1/2" tools cause we were done playing around!
Edit:cel gone, forgot to plug in the sensor on valve cover
I do have a cel on now, it was to late to hook up anything and or diagnose it, but hopefully it's something stupid and figure it out later today. Stay tuned for dyno figures as well hopefully this weekend. Think that was about it, thanks the read and comments guys n gals.
Oh! N after inspection my Canton is leaking from rear passenger area and the NPT drain bolt and yes it's tight
