Built motor guys; Rod & Main Clearances
#71
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by wadzii,Sep 9 2010, 06:41 AM
its kind of hard to use plasti gauge on rod bearings w/o the stuff in the block.
if you rotate the rod any at all you have to do it again
if you rotate the rod any at all you have to do it again
Btw, when assembling the rods/pistons..which way do the tabs (where the bearings go) on the rods face, exhaust or intake.
I know on B-series they face the exhaust side, but since our motors spin the opposite direction, does that mean they go on the intake side or is it still the exhuast side.
#73
sorry to bring up an old thread from dead but... no one seams to be addressing oil pressure. i am building my motor, and am aiming for in between .025 and .038mm. i am supercharged and i was under the impression that using larger tolerances would drop the oil pressure. from what i have heard - around 10 psi. i am supercharged doing abotu 12psi. what do u guys think about doing it that way?
i am speaking of mains btw
setup - aebs t sleeves
BC rods -
CP 11.5-1 pistons
oem bearings
i am speaking of mains btw
setup - aebs t sleeves
BC rods -
CP 11.5-1 pistons
oem bearings
#74
Well just an update for all of you wondering -
so i ran about 2k miles on this motor - tuned by church .
im super ocd when it comes to my car and building, so every measurement and full blueprint is DEAD NUTS . here they are
mains .025mm across the board (sucks cuz ocd made me wait for bearings to come in, stock was not at .025)
rods are all at .038 (.0015")
so after 2k of running 10w30, went to church for final tune. motor started loosing oil pressure.
you can see the parts posted in previous post (right above)
so speaking with a lot of people, this happened most likely because of the lack of clearance (too tight) for 2 reasons.
1) aftermarket rods tend to flex/twist and need a little extra clearance from bearings
2) the extra boost (14-15 psi) could definitely use the extra "cushion"
so, got the car back, going to be doing a tear down this week, taking it apart to check everything, and probably be putting back the motor with looser tolerances.
.045mm (.0020") on the rods
and depending on how the mains look, i may just leave the mains if they are not damaged, from what i understand if this theory is correct the mains should still be in good condition as they are in the center of the ballanced rotational mass and should not be as affected as the rods. but we will see.
so from my experience i think a little looser is best for a forced induction BUILT motor.
so i ran about 2k miles on this motor - tuned by church .
im super ocd when it comes to my car and building, so every measurement and full blueprint is DEAD NUTS . here they are
mains .025mm across the board (sucks cuz ocd made me wait for bearings to come in, stock was not at .025)
rods are all at .038 (.0015")
so after 2k of running 10w30, went to church for final tune. motor started loosing oil pressure.
you can see the parts posted in previous post (right above)
so speaking with a lot of people, this happened most likely because of the lack of clearance (too tight) for 2 reasons.
1) aftermarket rods tend to flex/twist and need a little extra clearance from bearings
2) the extra boost (14-15 psi) could definitely use the extra "cushion"
so, got the car back, going to be doing a tear down this week, taking it apart to check everything, and probably be putting back the motor with looser tolerances.
.045mm (.0020") on the rods
and depending on how the mains look, i may just leave the mains if they are not damaged, from what i understand if this theory is correct the mains should still be in good condition as they are in the center of the ballanced rotational mass and should not be as affected as the rods. but we will see.
so from my experience i think a little looser is best for a forced induction BUILT motor.
#76
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Originally Posted by Anthrax-VX
so from my experience i think a little looser is best for a forced induction BUILT motor.
#78
so its 0.0020" the holy grail measure mains&rods to built motors with turbo?
how many miles can i expect from this oversize clearances vs normal clearances?
I will build a f22c turbo and I think it will hit 700hp or more. darton sleeves , aftermarket rods and pistons
And thrust bearing clearance?
how many miles can i expect from this oversize clearances vs normal clearances?
I will build a f22c turbo and I think it will hit 700hp or more. darton sleeves , aftermarket rods and pistons
And thrust bearing clearance?
Last edited by R-Poizon; 01-01-2017 at 07:10 AM.
#79
there are many factors to take into account when setting bearing clearances. What materials, what will the engine be used for, Torque/hp, Rpm limit, dry or wet sump oiling, etc?
Most common mistake I see for "diy" engine builds are usually do to thrust clearances (crank and rods) as well as contaminates from machining, painting, sand blasting, silicone, etc.
Most common mistake I see for "diy" engine builds are usually do to thrust clearances (crank and rods) as well as contaminates from machining, painting, sand blasting, silicone, etc.
#80
there are many factors to take into account when setting bearing clearances. What materials, what will the engine be used for, Torque/hp, Rpm limit, dry or wet sump oiling, etc?
Most common mistake I see for "diy" engine builds are usually do to thrust clearances (crank and rods) as well as contaminates from machining, painting, sand blasting, silicone, etc.
Most common mistake I see for "diy" engine builds are usually do to thrust clearances (crank and rods) as well as contaminates from machining, painting, sand blasting, silicone, etc.