Flywheel suggestions for supercharged ap1
#1
Flywheel suggestions for supercharged ap1
I recently picked up a Kraftwerks c38-81 supercharger kit for my 03 ap1. I'm going to change clutch and go with all oem parts besides act heavy duty pressure plate. I'm wondering what my best bet would be with the flywheel; ap1 flywheel, fidanza 8lb or act pro lite. Thanks everyone.
#2
I recently picked up a Kraftwerks c38-81 supercharger kit for my 03 ap1. I'm going to change clutch and go with all oem parts besides act heavy duty pressure plate. I'm wondering what my best bet would be with the flywheel; ap1 flywheel, fidanza 8lb or act pro lite. Thanks everyone.
#4
If u already have the ap1 flywheel I wouldn't bother upgrading.
Save the money n go Balladesport supercharged clutch kit; done. It will literally cost the same or less.
Flywheel options will not arguably help peak #'s ;only how neutral revving response acts, how far rpms drop during shifting, and mayyybe how weight shifts when u change gears hard...
Just saying, been there done that. Had a 8lb bisimoto fly on my all MTR H22. I street my FI ap2 22lb fly daily and deftly sometimes stop to think I'm glad I still have a good solid rotating mass. Upgrading to the ap1 fly is an option in my mind, but past that it seems negligible for the money n time. u alrdy have the best option in my mind trq'd down and haven't had any issues with it. Hate to see the stories about people saying "what the hell I have had to tear apart everything and trq down this flywheel twice" just to in the end throw something else on, Or go ap1 flywheel back on.
If u want to splurge just to say u have it by all means go ahead, if u want the minimal advantages it gives go ahead. I have done it. Honestly the OEM is fine. After my all MTR H22 I tried to control, or "prioritize" what would actually yield #'s and for cost.
GL! Have fun n keep the tires on the pavement.
Edit: with all that said; if ur trying to negate parasitic drag on the motor because of the SC, a lite FW would help but still won't help "friction zone" // clutch engagement // n ease of taking off. To me; I see very low weight flywheels to be more of an advantage for all MTR engines. With all MTR they NEED to stay in the power band. FI is a whole different storie. Not only do I have the ap2 fly but I have like a however many lbs fluidampr pulley on the front....It's not lite lol. I still make great #'s for what I have n comparison.
It might be maxed out but it's right on par for power @ psi
Save the money n go Balladesport supercharged clutch kit; done. It will literally cost the same or less.
Flywheel options will not arguably help peak #'s ;only how neutral revving response acts, how far rpms drop during shifting, and mayyybe how weight shifts when u change gears hard...
Just saying, been there done that. Had a 8lb bisimoto fly on my all MTR H22. I street my FI ap2 22lb fly daily and deftly sometimes stop to think I'm glad I still have a good solid rotating mass. Upgrading to the ap1 fly is an option in my mind, but past that it seems negligible for the money n time. u alrdy have the best option in my mind trq'd down and haven't had any issues with it. Hate to see the stories about people saying "what the hell I have had to tear apart everything and trq down this flywheel twice" just to in the end throw something else on, Or go ap1 flywheel back on.
If u want to splurge just to say u have it by all means go ahead, if u want the minimal advantages it gives go ahead. I have done it. Honestly the OEM is fine. After my all MTR H22 I tried to control, or "prioritize" what would actually yield #'s and for cost.
GL! Have fun n keep the tires on the pavement.
Edit: with all that said; if ur trying to negate parasitic drag on the motor because of the SC, a lite FW would help but still won't help "friction zone" // clutch engagement // n ease of taking off. To me; I see very low weight flywheels to be more of an advantage for all MTR engines. With all MTR they NEED to stay in the power band. FI is a whole different storie. Not only do I have the ap2 fly but I have like a however many lbs fluidampr pulley on the front....It's not lite lol. I still make great #'s for what I have n comparison.
It might be maxed out but it's right on par for power @ psi
Last edited by MorngWoodStewie; 01-22-2017 at 12:37 AM.
#5
Due to being on a budget I've decided to run my ap1 flywheel and put the money into other areas of the car. Unless I really need to upgrade for reliability reasons. So everyone think the ap1 flywheel will hold up to 400whp? If it won't I'm going to go with act pro lite
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#8
Just keep the ap1 flywheel if your on a budget. Its perfectly fine to run with your set up.
That said. Lighter is better, so If you weren't on a budget and wanted the lightest and most reliable flywheel available, get the Act pro light 8.3lb. I ran the 8lb Findanza for 5 years no issues, loved it until the replaceable friction disc needed to be changed and then would never hold a PP again without vibrating loose. After dropping the trans 2 different times and going through re machining the flywheel to try and figure out and fix what was going on, I gave up and went with a traditional one piece flywheel. In hindsight I got 5 years out of the Findanza, but if your going to be a long time keeper of the s2k like I am (13 years now) save yourself future headaches and dont get one, its a added failure point.
That said. Lighter is better, so If you weren't on a budget and wanted the lightest and most reliable flywheel available, get the Act pro light 8.3lb. I ran the 8lb Findanza for 5 years no issues, loved it until the replaceable friction disc needed to be changed and then would never hold a PP again without vibrating loose. After dropping the trans 2 different times and going through re machining the flywheel to try and figure out and fix what was going on, I gave up and went with a traditional one piece flywheel. In hindsight I got 5 years out of the Findanza, but if your going to be a long time keeper of the s2k like I am (13 years now) save yourself future headaches and dont get one, its a added failure point.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 01-22-2017 at 09:32 PM.
#9
"dont get one, its a added failure point."
I love this sentence Lol.
Today was the second time, I ran into a boosted S2k with E-boost solenoid. Goes like this. Oh you boosted? Ya. sweet me to. Somethings weird with mine tho.
I test drive. Boost gauge looks like full retard Lol. I say who tune? Oh guy went to school for tuning. I say your solenoid is effed up, or ur tuner effed up the duty cycle on the e boost. In my mind for street duty, MBC all u need but everyone wants the splurge Lol
Anyways, first guy neva listened; he just kept driving shitty boosted S2k that never wanted to go get real tune. 2nd guy listens to me, I cut solenoid out n say lets just see what the spring does ya know, what the hell. (troubleshoot)
Night n Day difference. Boost goes up n holds correctly Lol, obviously needs a real tune but the look on his face was holy shit there is such a thing as miracles lol. Point here is Ya a real tuner could dial it in and all would be hunky dory, but for me and my application; MBC gets the job done, and its mechanical no funky lag or PWM modulation equations, I guess Lol it must be rocket science cause this is a common occurrence now.
Sorry this has nothing to do with flywheels Lol. But honestly I dont mind sharing experiences and etc. if it will help a headache an misfortune that I just keep running into Lol.
I love this sentence Lol.
Today was the second time, I ran into a boosted S2k with E-boost solenoid. Goes like this. Oh you boosted? Ya. sweet me to. Somethings weird with mine tho.
I test drive. Boost gauge looks like full retard Lol. I say who tune? Oh guy went to school for tuning. I say your solenoid is effed up, or ur tuner effed up the duty cycle on the e boost. In my mind for street duty, MBC all u need but everyone wants the splurge Lol
Anyways, first guy neva listened; he just kept driving shitty boosted S2k that never wanted to go get real tune. 2nd guy listens to me, I cut solenoid out n say lets just see what the spring does ya know, what the hell. (troubleshoot)
Night n Day difference. Boost goes up n holds correctly Lol, obviously needs a real tune but the look on his face was holy shit there is such a thing as miracles lol. Point here is Ya a real tuner could dial it in and all would be hunky dory, but for me and my application; MBC gets the job done, and its mechanical no funky lag or PWM modulation equations, I guess Lol it must be rocket science cause this is a common occurrence now.
Sorry this has nothing to do with flywheels Lol. But honestly I dont mind sharing experiences and etc. if it will help a headache an misfortune that I just keep running into Lol.
Last edited by MorngWoodStewie; 01-22-2017 at 10:37 PM.
#10
"dont get one, its a added failure point."
I love this sentence Lol.
Today was the second time, I ran into a boosted S2k with E-boost solenoid. Goes like this. Oh you boosted? Ya. sweet me to. Somethings weird with mine tho.
I test drive. Boost gauge looks like full retard Lol. I say who tune? Oh guy went to school for tuning. I say your solenoid is effed up, or ur tuner effed up the duty cycle on the e boost. In my mind for street duty, MBC all u need but everyone wants the splurge Lol
Anyways, first guy neva listened; he just kept driving shitty boosted S2k that never wanted to go get real tune. 2nd guy listens to me, I cut solenoid out n say lets just see what the spring does ya know, what the hell. (troubleshoot)
Night n Day difference. Boost goes up n holds correctly Lol, obviously needs a real tune but the look on his face was holy shit there is such a thing as miracles lol. Point here is Ya a real tuner could dial it in and all would be hunky dory, but for me and my application; MBC gets the job done, and its mechanical no funky lag or PWM modulation equations, I guess Lol it must be rocket science cause this is a common occurrence now.
Sorry this has nothing to do with flywheels Lol. But honestly I dont mind sharing experiences and etc. if it will help a headache an misfortune that I just keep running into Lol.
I love this sentence Lol.
Today was the second time, I ran into a boosted S2k with E-boost solenoid. Goes like this. Oh you boosted? Ya. sweet me to. Somethings weird with mine tho.
I test drive. Boost gauge looks like full retard Lol. I say who tune? Oh guy went to school for tuning. I say your solenoid is effed up, or ur tuner effed up the duty cycle on the e boost. In my mind for street duty, MBC all u need but everyone wants the splurge Lol
Anyways, first guy neva listened; he just kept driving shitty boosted S2k that never wanted to go get real tune. 2nd guy listens to me, I cut solenoid out n say lets just see what the spring does ya know, what the hell. (troubleshoot)
Night n Day difference. Boost goes up n holds correctly Lol, obviously needs a real tune but the look on his face was holy shit there is such a thing as miracles lol. Point here is Ya a real tuner could dial it in and all would be hunky dory, but for me and my application; MBC gets the job done, and its mechanical no funky lag or PWM modulation equations, I guess Lol it must be rocket science cause this is a common occurrence now.
Sorry this has nothing to do with flywheels Lol. But honestly I dont mind sharing experiences and etc. if it will help a headache an misfortune that I just keep running into Lol.
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