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Has anyone successfully lowered AIT's (SC'ed)

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Old 12-30-2016, 01:27 AM
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Default Has anyone successfully lowered AIT's (SC'ed)

So I've posted before and now I'm posting again....

I'm running a Novi 1200 CT after-cooled kit with Bosch pump and large heat exchanger. Since I'm using a 3.4" pulley and making 19psi @ redline my AIT temps hit 65'c/149'F.

In a nut shell I suspect my CT after-cooler is too small. When I look at my AEM data logs the cooler seems be able to cope up to about 10psi then after that is can't cope. I see AIT's go up 20'C/68'F throughout the rev range.

To make all this worse as I'm currently still using my OEM AIT sensor so then when I let off the throttle my AIT's nearly match my intake manifold temperatures. I have an AEM AIT sensor now in my after cooler but I just need to change the wiring before I can use it (so I can get a quicker response).

So... has anyone successfully managed to lower AIT's using my kit? Has anyone installed a custom aftercooler or anything else?

I would like to avoid water/meth injection...
Old 12-30-2016, 06:26 AM
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Without running water meth your kinda stuck with little options. On my SOT kit my front mount heat exchanger is from a sc Mustang and is about the size of the front bumper opening. It has 2 slim fans on the backside pulling air through to help with stop and go traffic heat soak. Might want to think about upgrading the heat exchanger/fans.

Im BARELY above ambient ait but Im running 600 ml/hr of water meth.
Old 12-30-2016, 08:46 AM
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Look up laminova cores. It would have to be made custom but I think used properly 3-4 of them would do the trick. Google images it and get an idea of how to use them.

Air to water coolers are the best, but making them the most efficient is another story. Company's making really good after coolers with these cores would charge alot more. But the surface area and way the air has to pass by them I think is the most efficient.
Old 12-30-2016, 10:22 AM
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That's exactly what i found on my old novi1000 after 12psi the AC and CT setup is no good even with an upgraded larger heat exchanger (i basically used a fiat cinquento radiator!).

Spraying 25/75 meth and water helped massively around 25c almost instantaneously, at 50/50 it gave a small increase in power around 15BHP i was 430BHP at 16psi.

Moving the IAT is worthless it depends on what the compensation table is doing in the ECU, so say over 50psi it might be doing nothing at all.

You only way now is to introduce a FMIC and loose a little boost if chosen correctly 1psi is achievable.
Old 12-30-2016, 02:07 PM
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I have a turbo setup @ 23psi and I'm using this w/a intercooler from frozenboost. I wrapped it up in heat reflecting stuff, and gold reflective tape on the water lines. (both couplers on top are inlet, the outlet is at the bottom)

At the water inlet I use a small 1/8 sensor, which never really gets hotter than about 30 C. Even when everything in the engine bay is cooking... this intercooler still feels pretty cold!

The heat exchanger is a thin radiator from a suzuki swift. Thing costs about 15 bucks new and is waaaay bigger than any W/A heat exchanger setups available. It's a tight fit, but it works!
The oem s2000 radiator fan fits perfectly on this radiator. Whenever I'm driving slow, I switch the fan on.



I mounted a GM IAT sensor beneath the BOV, and used the wires of the oem IAT sensor for reading. Just cut them and solder some longer wire onto it. I must say, the readings are not that much quicker or better than the oem sensor. But the position is better, it doesn't heat soak as quick when throttle is shut.

Especially for you, I just downloaded the latest log from my aem v2 from tonights ride. Here is a screenshot of the IAT: highest temp was 41 C. And when off the throttle, the temp goes down pretty quick.



Hope this is any good for you. Cheers
Old 12-30-2016, 02:15 PM
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Oh and on the water/meth thing... I wouldn't trust a system like the aem or whatever. It just looks and feels too fragile to fully trust my tune on. If it fails, and the engine gets too hot and starts detonating... you're screwed.

You can setup ignition retard as soon as your knock sensor reads more than 2V on your aem v2.
Old 12-31-2016, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Jaspah
Oh and on the water/meth thing... I wouldn't trust a system like the aem or whatever. It just looks and feels too fragile to fully trust my tune on. If it fails, and the engine gets too hot and starts detonating... you're screwed.

You can setup ignition retard as soon as your knock sensor reads more than 2V on your aem v2.
thats a sick setup bro
Old 12-31-2016, 02:37 AM
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Thanks for the post everyone!

@ Jaspah, wow great aftercooler setup. Thanks for the post and graph.

Yeah AIT is mainly for heat soak/time, interesting that it isn't much faster than the OEM sensor.

When I lift off throttle mine just shoots up rather than down to equal intake manifold temps. Is your sensor an open element type like this?




I'm in the UK and have been looking at these:

http://www.chargecooler.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=67

But I like the way you have mounted yours! Also interesting is the charge cooler systems water temp

I'm going to add a fan to my heat exchanger like yours, temperature sensor so I can see what's happening with the water temps, then look at a new aftercooler like yours.

Really appreciated your post

Last edited by E4RTH WORM JIM; 12-31-2016 at 02:56 AM.
Old 12-31-2016, 03:29 AM
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Agreed If u want some better performance add some fans.
Old 12-31-2016, 05:01 AM
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That's the iat sensor I use yes. Open one responds quicker than closed. It's mounted just before the throttlebody.


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