Jaspah

Oh and about the link of the barrel type aftercoolers... Check this out first before you buy one:

http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/?osCsid=638544470389db734ef781c4d61d9faf

Maybe there is an aftercooler available that would fit much easier than a straight pipe. There are many options.

E4RTH WORM JIM

Lots to looks at on frozen boost I nearly got my exchanger from them a few years ago.

After looking into fans, my only worry is that it will block air flowing to my oil cooler and rads.

I have an amuse R1 bumper and the exchanger is right up front, there is room for a fan behind it but will it restrict air flow afterwardfs when on the move?.....

Jaspah

I don't think you will be able to notice the difference. The fan will probably rotate when you're riding... Right?

s2000Junky

It wont be any worse then what he is running now, which is 150F AIT and 'working'. In general I agree, but only in the case where people tune around the water/meth for making more power with aggressive tuning, so if proper fail safes aren't utilized then sure, its going to create a problem when it fails. In the OP case that wouldn't happen, since its sole purpose is to run the current tune wile supplementing with the injection set up to significantly lower AIT for track, which will increase the performance just from that lower AIT to a good degree wile increasing the life of the motor/longevity.

Im a big proponent of water/meth injection when its utilized properly for its list of beneficial qualities. There really is no replacement for what it can do. You can spend a lot of money and time modifying and customizing better aftercoolers/radiators/fmic to get marginal improvements, but the fact is you just cant fully combat the kind of heat being produced at this high level of charging the air without lowering boost, which negates the whole point of spinning the blower this fast. So if you want to yield the highest potential of the blower to the rear wheels wile increasing the health management of the motor, water/meth is the sol most effective option. Once you come to terms with that, then its just a matter of researching the kind of kit that is best going to be able to deliver for the circumstance, or design your own kit. There are some basic things one needs to know to have the best working system for the circumstance.

Probably a simple and traditional single port pre TB progressive injection system at 50/50 ratio with the larger 550cc nozzle would be really effective and least costly. Most off the shelf kits are configured this way with a selection of nozzle sizes. Ive run this config, and ive also run a custom multi port single stage system as well. I tend to not like progressive style kits as much, because they lag a bit in response and dont deliver very good injection at lower pump pressures wile its spooling up (progressing) where atomization suffers, so I would steer more towards a single stage instead, and just have it kick on with its 100% injection at a set pressure like 10psi/6k rpm where the motor can best cope/ingest without risk of washing cylinders or cutting ignition with spark blow out. Of course nozzle cc choice is most important, having the most impact here. So just some of the things one needs to understand/learn before going down this road for example for OP. There is some good reading out there on the web to quickly get one up to speed on the technology and its various uses, with which design works better for the circumstance as I previously mentioned. There is also a decent amount of people that run it in the club here too, with various levels of knowledge and experience to pool from.

E4RTH WORM JIM

Hey Junky,

I've heard of a few issues relating to water/meth which has put me off, rightly or wrongly.

The first is that it kills map sensors and after time can damage the TB. You also mention in your post bore wash and spark blow out which concern me.

To me it seems a simpler and the more correct approach to up the cooling via the aftercooler system.

As you have run water/meth with success can you point me in the right direct of the exact kit you would recommend so I can look at prices and options?, as I'm still not 100% convinced.

E4RTH WORM JIM

So I've ordered a fan and water temperature sensor so I can see if it makes any difference.

Ive also been looking at new aftercoolers and water meth.

Some of the issues in this thread still put me off it (w/meth) though. Looks like an SOS TB is required as a minimum, but how do you stop map sensor damage and other damage if spraying a single jet pre TB?

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-forced-induction-142/official-water-methanol-injection-thread-630654/page18/

s2k manic

I went air to air and I make 18 psi open exhaust with an equivalent of a 3.6 pulley on my novi 1200. The problem is if you have to pay someone to make it your looking at over 1000$ in labor as you need to draw air outside the engine bay. There is a misconception the air to air doesn't work with superchargers and its not true at least on high boost situations. Without my water/meth in the summer on track I would see 150-160f iat's in manifold mounted sensor with the intercooler I have not seen more than 110f iat's in boost and 136f in 30 minutes of traffic in 105f Texas heat. The trick with air to air is large piping smooth radius large intercooler core that is low restriction and efficient. I run the treadstone 840hp intercooler with 3'' piping. Dual 50mm bov's and staggered spring rates are the trick to keeping your blower responsive. You need the hot side bov to close while your in vacuum and the cold side to close near 0 vacuum this lets the blower charge the intercooler without restriction from the throttle body or the engine it self. I also run a very low vtec engagement 3300 rpm by way of changing the relief pressure on my oil pump so I have the 50psi minimum oil pressure to lock the rockers. This was needed to combat compressor surge due to air density. I also put my oil cooler under the driver headlight and air intake under the passenger side along with 2 kings racing vents ducted into the radiator diffuser to allow air directly to the radiator as the intercooler takes up a lot of space. That said with a vented hood and the heat distributed across the front of the car I have yet to pass 195f on coolant temps and the oil temps have not exceeded 230f. I have a fan on the back side of the oil cooler that runs at 220f so if your hot after a session you can pop the hood and leave the fans on to extract all the heat from the motor oil and coolant. This is just my personal observation's if you want to see how I did it click on the link in my avatar
sloth2k out

E4RTH WORM JIM

Nice looking motor!

MorngWoodStewie

noice!

s2k manic

New setup on Sloth2k
vmount time attack areo honey badger level