SOS novi 1220 question
09-23-2013, 04:54 AM
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SOS novi 1220 question
Hey guys,
I am in the middle of getting everything ready for my SC install this winter. I have a SOS Stage 1 Supercharger, and was wondering if i am on the right track. Any help/suggestion will be appreciated.
My goal is to get anywhere between 375-425whp with sufficient torque. I have the following things ready so far. Let me know if i need or do not need anything:
1. Novi 1220 Blower
2. IDs 1000cc Injectors
3. ap1 flywheel
4. ACT HDDS clutch (Complete kit)
5. SOS 3in pulley (Please let me know if this is a correct size and will i have slipping issues. Should i go with a bigger belt?)
6. Bigger Heat Exchanger
7. AEM EMS v2
8. AEM Failsafe gauge
9. Oil pressure gauge
10. Dual gauge pod
11. Walbro 255 fuel pump
Thank you
I am in the middle of getting everything ready for my SC install this winter. I have a SOS Stage 1 Supercharger, and was wondering if i am on the right track. Any help/suggestion will be appreciated.
My goal is to get anywhere between 375-425whp with sufficient torque. I have the following things ready so far. Let me know if i need or do not need anything:
1. Novi 1220 Blower
2. IDs 1000cc Injectors
3. ap1 flywheel
4. ACT HDDS clutch (Complete kit)
5. SOS 3in pulley (Please let me know if this is a correct size and will i have slipping issues. Should i go with a bigger belt?)
6. Bigger Heat Exchanger
7. AEM EMS v2
8. AEM Failsafe gauge
9. Oil pressure gauge
10. Dual gauge pod
11. Walbro 255 fuel pump
Thank you
09-23-2013, 06:07 AM
#2
I just went through the same steps upgrading from a Stage 1 Comptech Novi 1220 setup to a 13 PSI standalone ECU setup. Your goals are realistic (for DynoJet numbers) and your parts list looks good. Here are my comments:
The 3.0" pulley will be difficult to keep from slipping. Looking at SOS's chart on pulley sizing and from what I know about my own setup, you might be better off going with the 3.2". I have an AP1 and am running the 3.4" pulley on my 1220 and saw 13 PSI peak at 9k RPM even though SOS's chart says I should only see 11.25 PSI peak. I bet you would see at least 12 PSI with the 3.2" pulley and you would be less likely to experience belt slip at high RPMs. I don't have any slip issues with my 3.4" pulley even at 9k RPM.
I don't have any first-hand experience but have *heard* that the ACT friction disc that they supply in their HDDS clutch kit has some buzz to it. The go-to setup for clutches is using the ACT HD pressure plate with an OEM Honda friction disc. ACT had their PP on backorder when I was upgrading, so I went with the SOS Sport Clutch. Holding power is about the same as with the ACT PP. S2000Junky has the same clutch setup on his higher-boost 1200 setup.
I'm assuming you have an 04-05, which is why you're going with AEM v2 instead of Hondata? If so, its a good choice. Seems like more tuners are well versed in AEM than the other options (Haltech) and Jeff Evans does e-tune with AEM too so you always have him as a fall-back. I wish I had gone AEM now after going Haltech and not being able to find many tuners that are up on the software.
The AEM Wideband Failsafe gauge is awesome. Two thumbs up there.
May I recommend the Aeromotive 340 LPH fuel pump instead of the Walbro... I've had both and the Aeromotive is much quieter than my Walbro was.
The 3.0" pulley will be difficult to keep from slipping. Looking at SOS's chart on pulley sizing and from what I know about my own setup, you might be better off going with the 3.2". I have an AP1 and am running the 3.4" pulley on my 1220 and saw 13 PSI peak at 9k RPM even though SOS's chart says I should only see 11.25 PSI peak. I bet you would see at least 12 PSI with the 3.2" pulley and you would be less likely to experience belt slip at high RPMs. I don't have any slip issues with my 3.4" pulley even at 9k RPM.
I don't have any first-hand experience but have *heard* that the ACT friction disc that they supply in their HDDS clutch kit has some buzz to it. The go-to setup for clutches is using the ACT HD pressure plate with an OEM Honda friction disc. ACT had their PP on backorder when I was upgrading, so I went with the SOS Sport Clutch. Holding power is about the same as with the ACT PP. S2000Junky has the same clutch setup on his higher-boost 1200 setup.
I'm assuming you have an 04-05, which is why you're going with AEM v2 instead of Hondata? If so, its a good choice. Seems like more tuners are well versed in AEM than the other options (Haltech) and Jeff Evans does e-tune with AEM too so you always have him as a fall-back. I wish I had gone AEM now after going Haltech and not being able to find many tuners that are up on the software.
The AEM Wideband Failsafe gauge is awesome. Two thumbs up there.
May I recommend the Aeromotive 340 LPH fuel pump instead of the Walbro... I've had both and the Aeromotive is much quieter than my Walbro was.
09-23-2013, 09:43 AM
#3
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I just went through the same steps upgrading from a Stage 1 Comptech Novi 1220 setup to a 13 PSI standalone ECU setup. Your goals are realistic (for DynoJet numbers) and your parts list looks good. Here are my comments:
The 3.0" pulley will be difficult to keep from slipping. Looking at SOS's chart on pulley sizing and from what I know about my own setup, you might be better off going with the 3.2". I have an AP1 and am running the 3.4" pulley on my 1220 and saw 13 PSI peak at 9k RPM even though SOS's chart says I should only see 11.25 PSI peak. I bet you would see at least 12 PSI with the 3.2" pulley and you would be less likely to experience belt slip at high RPMs. I don't have any slip issues with my 3.4" pulley even at 9k RPM.
I don't have any first-hand experience but have *heard* that the ACT friction disc that they supply in their HDDS clutch kit has some buzz to it. The go-to setup for clutches is using the ACT HD pressure plate with an OEM Honda friction disc. ACT had their PP on backorder when I was upgrading, so I went with the SOS Sport Clutch. Holding power is about the same as with the ACT PP. S2000Junky has the same clutch setup on his higher-boost 1200 setup.
I'm assuming you have an 04-05, which is why you're going with AEM v2 instead of Hondata? If so, its a good choice. Seems like more tuners are well versed in AEM than the other options (Haltech) and Jeff Evans does e-tune with AEM too so you always have him as a fall-back. I wish I had gone AEM now after going Haltech and not being able to find many tuners that are up on the software.
The AEM Wideband Failsafe gauge is awesome. Two thumbs up there.
May I recommend the Aeromotive 340 LPH fuel pump instead of the Walbro... I've had both and the Aeromotive is much quieter than my Walbro was.
The 3.0" pulley will be difficult to keep from slipping. Looking at SOS's chart on pulley sizing and from what I know about my own setup, you might be better off going with the 3.2". I have an AP1 and am running the 3.4" pulley on my 1220 and saw 13 PSI peak at 9k RPM even though SOS's chart says I should only see 11.25 PSI peak. I bet you would see at least 12 PSI with the 3.2" pulley and you would be less likely to experience belt slip at high RPMs. I don't have any slip issues with my 3.4" pulley even at 9k RPM.
I don't have any first-hand experience but have *heard* that the ACT friction disc that they supply in their HDDS clutch kit has some buzz to it. The go-to setup for clutches is using the ACT HD pressure plate with an OEM Honda friction disc. ACT had their PP on backorder when I was upgrading, so I went with the SOS Sport Clutch. Holding power is about the same as with the ACT PP. S2000Junky has the same clutch setup on his higher-boost 1200 setup.
I'm assuming you have an 04-05, which is why you're going with AEM v2 instead of Hondata? If so, its a good choice. Seems like more tuners are well versed in AEM than the other options (Haltech) and Jeff Evans does e-tune with AEM too so you always have him as a fall-back. I wish I had gone AEM now after going Haltech and not being able to find many tuners that are up on the software.
The AEM Wideband Failsafe gauge is awesome. Two thumbs up there.
May I recommend the Aeromotive 340 LPH fuel pump instead of the Walbro... I've had both and the Aeromotive is much quieter than my Walbro was.
Im so excited to get this thing on and i hope i achieve my goals
09-23-2013, 10:11 AM
#4
Do a bit more research on the 3.0" pulley; I don't have first-hand experience on it so I can't discount it myself. But I believe most people that are running a 3.0" pulley are running the Reichard Racing pulley.
09-23-2013, 10:37 AM
#5
The CFMs for the the 1220 and the older 1000 is the same correct? If so, I think with an ap2 (8k redline) and a 3.2" pulley, he's not going to see enough boost to make ~400whp on a 1220. I'm gonna be using a 3.2" pulley on my ap1 and plan on making about 380whp at 9k rpms.
OP, if you want those goals, I would suggest maxing the blower out, which means using the 3.0" pulley. Or you could use a bigger crank pulley that would allow you to use a smaller supercharger pulley but obtain the same amount of boost.
Also, some things I noticed missing on your parts list;
- 3 or 4bar Map sensor (SoS/Hondata)
- Upgraded water pump (if you use a bigger heat exchanger, which I recommend)
- I second the usage of the HD PP w/ OEM clutch. It's what I'm using right now and will be using for my SC set up, it grabs nicely and is a little stiffer than stock, but after about a weeks worth of driving, I dont notice it anymore.
I'd also like to recommend looking into replacing the stock diverter valve and maybe opting for a higher flowing BOV that vents to atmosphere, that is unless you like the idea of recirculating hot compressed air back into the intake.
Other than that, you look like you are on the right track. Dont forget that upgrading parts like the clutch means buying a few more parts other than just the clutch / flywheel themselves. You will want to replace the throwout bearing and pilot bearing at least. I ended up replacing some of the bolts of the subframe that are made to expand, and since my car had 150k miles on it at the time, I didn't like the idea of reusing some of these bolts and picked up new ones. Some may consider this overkill, but like everyone says, do it right the first time or dont do it at all.
OP, if you want those goals, I would suggest maxing the blower out, which means using the 3.0" pulley. Or you could use a bigger crank pulley that would allow you to use a smaller supercharger pulley but obtain the same amount of boost.
Also, some things I noticed missing on your parts list;
- 3 or 4bar Map sensor (SoS/Hondata)
- Upgraded water pump (if you use a bigger heat exchanger, which I recommend)
- I second the usage of the HD PP w/ OEM clutch. It's what I'm using right now and will be using for my SC set up, it grabs nicely and is a little stiffer than stock, but after about a weeks worth of driving, I dont notice it anymore.
I'd also like to recommend looking into replacing the stock diverter valve and maybe opting for a higher flowing BOV that vents to atmosphere, that is unless you like the idea of recirculating hot compressed air back into the intake.
Other than that, you look like you are on the right track. Dont forget that upgrading parts like the clutch means buying a few more parts other than just the clutch / flywheel themselves. You will want to replace the throwout bearing and pilot bearing at least. I ended up replacing some of the bolts of the subframe that are made to expand, and since my car had 150k miles on it at the time, I didn't like the idea of reusing some of these bolts and picked up new ones. Some may consider this overkill, but like everyone says, do it right the first time or dont do it at all.
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