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Mid range TQ with SC

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Old 12-23-2016, 11:57 AM
  #21  

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Sos does say they don't mesure their pulley the same way other do ?? Could be why their chart seems of??

Smaller pulley stars to look like an option ...

My fmic is the PLM one. I had to modify their piping cause they were way off !! The intercooler is big enough tho. It's not the first time we have this discution over the fmic vs aftercooler. If you ask me fmic with sc is underrated. I had one before and my pressure was the same.

My friend as the ultimate racing fmic kit witch plm copied. He also sees under 1psi of drop.

Btw just bought a intake manifold for cheap locally!!!!
Old 12-23-2016, 01:21 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Sylvain2000
Sos does say they don't mesure their pulley the same way other do ?? Could be why their chart seems of??

Smaller pulley stars to look like an option ...

My fmic is the PLM one. I had to modify their piping cause they were way off !! The intercooler is big enough tho. It's not the first time we have this discution over the fmic vs aftercooler. If you ask me fmic with sc is underrated. I had one before and my pressure was the same.

My friend as the ultimate racing fmic kit witch plm copied. He also sees under 1psi of drop.

Btw just bought a intake manifold for cheap locally!!!!
I think you mean 1.6psi drop, which is what your getting based on your pulley size, which makes 11psi with aftercooler. Which still isn't bad, considering 2-4psi is the average loss on an fmic/supercharger combo. Just depends on the size of the fmic and pipe diameter and maybe routing. .5psi is the loss on an aftercooler vs strait through pipe from the filter.

Last edited by s2000Junky; 12-23-2016 at 01:24 PM.
Old 12-23-2016, 03:34 PM
  #23  

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Well I could be wrong ... I don't know what more to say . I hear you and everything you said is true and everything i can read on the net confirm what you say on pressure loss. Hell even plm stated more psi drop then what I have.

I must have a magic kit 😂. My before and after aftercooler / fmic showed less then half a psi diference.

If we get back on the topic , nothing beside the size of the TB and intake manifold as been proven to gain TQ , when I think about it ... there is not much more that can be done ... except going crazy with ported head and cams I guess.
Old 12-27-2016, 08:30 PM
  #24  
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I started reading all this, all the replies and suggestions. I have an answer and it's the same as what others gave you and just like theirs it's from experience. LOWER THE VTEC AND UP THE BOOST. My Novi1000 went from 4.0-3.6-3.4-3.2 to finally 3.0 pulley size and I'm at 30K+ 3.0 now.

In regards to VTEC...

As an entertainment I also have a funny story for you. Two dynos side by side, the shop owner (my tuner) is tuning my car. At the same time this "well known" ITR/Civic tuner is tuning his race Hondas. My tuner, the shop owner, rented his second dyno to him. This guy keeps going on and on about how dropping my VTEC that low doesn't do sh*t. My tuner responded with "at his boost levels it makes a big difference and on F22 in general." The guy wouldn't drop it or leave my tuner alone. My tuner looked at me and asked if I minded if he showed him, I smiled and laughed. Long story longer, VTEC drop made a HUGE difference in mid-range and this Honda tuner stopped talking and my tuner could pay attention to his work again.

As for overspinning, if you REALLY that worried, just program in an earlier fuel cut or use your gauges and right foot to control AIT on the track. Shift sooner.

Last edited by EOE; 12-27-2016 at 08:42 PM.
Old 12-27-2016, 11:18 PM
  #25  

 
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Kinda off topic sorry ill be sure to add something Has anyone ever buffed or polished their compressor wheel. The Novi 1k I helped with was awfully textured from what looked like the cast flash I'm thinking. This stemmed from me also thinking; I would be more worried about the mechanical limitations of over spinning, stuff like exploding housing and wheels but I think it would have some stature as a worthy diy mod.

Someone mentioned earlier with tons of miles on a certain setup. Id have to lean towards proven setups with shade.
Old 12-27-2016, 11:25 PM
  #26  

 
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Originally Posted by EOE
I started reading all this, all the replies and suggestions. I have an answer and it's the same as what others gave you and just like theirs it's from experience. LOWER THE VTEC AND UP THE BOOST. My Novi1000 went from 4.0-3.6-3.4-3.2 to finally 3.0 pulley size and I'm at 30K+ 3.0 now.

In regards to VTEC...

As an entertainment I also have a funny story for you. Two dynos side by side, the shop owner (my tuner) is tuning my car. At the same time this "well known" ITR/Civic tuner is tuning his race Hondas. My tuner, the shop owner, rented his second dyno to him. This guy keeps going on and on about how dropping my VTEC that low doesn't do sh*t. My tuner responded with "at his boost levels it makes a big difference and on F22 in general." The guy wouldn't drop it or leave my tuner alone. My tuner looked at me and asked if I minded if he showed him, I smiled and laughed. Long story longer, VTEC drop made a HUGE difference in mid-range and this Honda tuner stopped talking and my tuner could pay attention to his work again.

As for overspinning, if you REALLY that worried, just program in an earlier fuel cut or use your gauges and right foot to control AIT on the track. Shift sooner.
Funny you mentioned this story. I was just in a lil debate the other day about this same thing. Even tho. there is even documented power on NA setups. He must have tuned alot of Junk2's Pro cam lineup on NA. I will vouch the primary lobes will carry power high. The seamless X over is pretty cool, but thats another day, different setup.
Old 01-01-2017, 11:15 PM
  #27  

 
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
I dont know what track you run, but in my general experience, if your finding the need for more power out of the turns then what your currently using, id assume your just not carrying enough corner speed. If your using the full track width and pushing the car to its limit of adhesion, then the last thing you need is more mid range trq to try and modulate and bite you in the ass. If your making mistakes or poor line choices/ falling out of the fast line and need to recover regularly, then a car with low/mid range grunt will help mask that poor driving and get you to recover status quicker. The S2k is a momentum car, with fast cornering speeds compared to most other cars, and thats how it should be driven to capitalize on it. As a result, more top end trq/hp will shorten the runs between corners and nothing wrong with that. SC has the perfect powerband for road course duty. And yes, also easier with heat management/reliability. Id toy with the idea of upping the boost a few psi if you really feel lacking in power to reach your track time goals. 9psi isnt much. 11-12 psi is reasonable. You will gain 10-12trq at 5-6k rpm from that and will be noticeable. Double that at near redline along with another 30-40whp peak rpm.
This makes sense.
Old 01-01-2017, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
Don't know what "black box" you have, but generally (unless you have an old apexi vafc 1-2) vtec is tuned based on rpm and throttle % as well, so your not engaging it wile cruising bellow 6k rpm.
Is it possible to tune VTEC lower on a piggyback unit? If not then is stand alone the only type of ECU which gives you control over VTEC engagement point? Lastly, how safe is lowering VTEC from stock to 4000 rpm and engaging it often?
Old 01-04-2017, 06:17 AM
  #29  
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I make pretty good midrange for a supercharger. if your using a solenoid to control the water/meth you should be good. I currently run a rep tb aem meth kit and working on a multiport system for above 10 psi I will include a pic with different jet in the meeth kit.
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