Stevens2000ap1

Hi guys I wanted to know with some of you, if you guys could tell me what horsepower i could run SAFELY on my new setup

First of all i want to tell you guys I live in quebec and 93oct gaz or Ethanol isn't available here. Where I live 91 octane max is available

Last year I had issue with my motor has almost no more compression on 2 cylindre. Result where 120-145-200-190, which seem VERY LOW and out of specs

This year i'm building a new engine with the following parts:
-Darton Dry sleeves
-Cp piston 10:1
-Skunk2 h-beam rods
-ARP head studs and rods studs
-OEM honda head gasket
-ACL race main and rod bearings
-Brand new Comp stage 3 clutch
-Brand new 1000cc injectors

My turbo setup is :
-Log cast manifold
-Hx35 turbo
-2.75 inch downpipe
-2.5 inch IC piping
-30X10x3 intercooler
-electronic boost solenoid
-Doctronic pro ecu-k
-38mm external wastegate with 10psi spring
-hks ssqv BOV
-Snow water meth kit

I was running 780cc last season with 10psi low boost on 91oct and 15psi high boost with water meth injection nozzle number 5 from the snow kit

My target is making 500hp to the crank. Is it possible honestly without blowing and engine again? Should i Aim for more? less hp? just wanted to know if im doing it right

Jaspah

I would save all that money and buy a good, used f20c with low milage.
Stock is very reliable. Maybe on 91 not much more than 450+/- but saves you a ton of money.

If you're gonna build anyway, don't just put in the acl bearings and assume it should run fine. Check the clearances.

Oem Honda Rod & main bearings come in 5 different sizes to get the perfect clearance. Acl only makes 1.
Just so you know

s2000Junky

Yeah I tend to agree, that's a big investment for basically just dropping compression 1 point, which is helpful, but not when you consider your still on 91 so the net power effect difference is going to be minimal maybe 25-40whp between sticking with a stock engine/stock compression and water/meth vs a lower compression engine with the same fuel. At the end of the day your still relying on 91 and supplementing with water/meth.15psi with the stock engine with the addition of water meth to help suppress detonation with a good tuner should find no issue making that reliable. Just make sure you employ some kind of safety measure if the water/meth fails to inject, like boost dump.

Stevens2000ap1

Thanks for the answer guys. The thing is with the canadian money beiing so low at the moment the price of a jdm low millage engine here is similar to the price of my built engine ( i already bought the parts anyway)

A use motor here, cost me about 4200$ canadian dollar while my build engine cost me so far 4800$ but its new basicly

I'm a mechanic so i pay no labor for the work itself. The only thing i had to pay is the machine shop for sleeves installation which is already include in the 4800$ price

BTW i knew about the bearing size but had to order new bearing since my stock one where a lil dmg. The crank is ok and has been checked

I know im only dropping 1 on CR, but i just wanted to play a lil safer without the sacrifice of having no power before the turbo. since my plans are MAX 20psi for the next summer.

I tune the car myself too, i always keep the laptop in the car with datalog recording most of the time. This car is for fun and has no plan for beiing on the track. Its a street car with some highway pull nothing too intense

And i wasnt lucky with used engine, last time i bought one, i got screwed since the engine was already out the car couldnt hear it running and compression on 1 cylinder had 20% difference on the first day. And mysteriously the seller disappeared when was time for refund

MorngWoodStewie

Maybe posting your last cal and or a datalog with would be more beneficial to you from us....And us meaning them lol.

I won't street water+meth, my tuner and engine builder have always gone against it for a street car. They both have been in business longer then the first time I turned a wrench. It separates sitting, people say it's a never ending battle of maintenance n such.
I'm guessing u put to much eggs in your water meth basket thinking it was gonna turn ur 91 Into race gas. Just saying.
If u already got the parts n block sleeved, build it! Run the kit, tune it. High compression n boost isn't an easy area for some. Even if your well familiar with built engines with tolerable compressions n tune drag racers all the time, Once that static keeps creeping up there, the margin gets very thin. With the 10cr I would up the boost keep timing conservative and dial the afrs in an have fun. But I'm no tuner, u prolly know more then me. The margin should open considerably tho with one whole point down.
Where was ur VTEC switch?
Alot of people know that lowering VTEC shows improvements and tons of gains n mid-range. Also tho. Switching to that high cam low thats meant for high rpm, it has more lift n overlap creating a lower dynamic compression; in a way, taking stress away from the high static cr.

Ultimately don't go by some # someone spits out at you here. If need be. Read more about tuning, schedule a self serve dyno. Make some knock cans. Educate yourself, there is lots to learn. Boost n timing is a equilibrium. Boost can cool, to much gets to hot. To lil no potential or max. Retard can allow more boost but to much Ret. Gets hot on Exhaust valves. To much advance causes knock.
Just blabbing now, u prolly already know this. Make it safe n have fun is important.

Singh_snisen

I have 91 up north in California. With that kind of reinforcement I think u can safely make 400-500whp. U might run outa fuel after 500 with 700cc injectors. But with the hurdles ur going thru u can make some where near 4-500 whp. Also If ur going thru all those troubles and cash get a very good ecu like infinity.

Stevens2000ap1

Ill be running ID1000cc injection with aem adjustable FPR

Singh_snisen

looks like ur good for 500whp safely. Don't forget the titanium valvetrain

Stevens2000ap1

My work laptop is at the garage atm but if i remember correctly the vtec point was set at 5800rpm, which is the negative point about log manifold. Vtec crossover can't be lowered much or it does a big creep in torque and hp and make the car lose power in the early vtec engagement point.

Im street tuning car for the past 10years and a lot of people can argue with that but never had trouble with STREET tuning and I tuned over 200 cars for customers without any issues.

water methanol is simply magic. Most people that hate it or dont recommend it, never use it OR don't know how to tune it. My ECU knows when the system is armed and will spray progressively and adjust timing and fuel based on that. When use properly it can do very nice thing to an engine. It clean carbon and deposit too.

Stevens2000ap1

is there a problem with the stock valve train?? never had issue so far and im running the ap2 retainers, except that everything is stock, valves are lapped and perfectly seal