icemans2k02

So I am installing a turbo kit on my car and am shooting for around 500whp. Talking to a buddy he suggested at 84k miles to give the head some new life. Springs, valve seals, retainers. Was wondering thoughts on this and suggestions. I have an ap1 02 with 84k. Good compression and no leak down but again if it's peace of mind I'll do it. Thanks for suggestions.

Bobby

bruthaboost

Won't hurt, especially if you upgrade your valve seals to a higher temp viton. I got some valve float when I dyno tuned and really wished I had upgraded my valve springs. I ended up having to upgrade the valve springs and of course had to replace the seals at well. You may not get any valve float, but in hindsight, dyno time/tuning is expensive enough and scheduling logistics is inconvenient enough that in the future I'll probably upgrade springs on any future higher mileage motor.

Edit: Forgot to mention that was on an ap1 vortech at 18 psi.

Jaspah

If you put 1 bar extra pressure on the intake valves (via FI), the springs will have to work harder to close the valve. Plus the ap1 intake valve spring retainers are known to crack. Better safe than sorry!

R00567

upgrading the valvetrain and forced induction go hand in hand. I agree on the added insurance of taking extra precautionary measures to protect your investment (because its an ap1).

If i can add one other thing. Take off the pan, and upgrade to the ap2 oil jet bolts and a oil pan baffle if your budget permits. Both help with the engine's oiling system (can only provide protection when you are loading it with boost).

Hope that helps, best of luck

MorngWoodStewie

Wonder what the seat and open pressure are of other mfg. Stock boosted engines?
just curious, thinking in basis of actual possible float FROM boost. I can understand the reasoning, just wanna see some data or comparison of this specific upgrade for pre caution. Honestly peace of mind can get excessive, but if I could find evidence of evos and STIs for ex. Running higher pressure/lbs springs I would be more involved. This is generally speaking power figures tho., not knowing your max goal, more power more boost ya totally. IE. At what point is it still negligible or running risk ya know. Not against a fresh up especially if the bottom end is healthy, just thinking out loud.

One of my first upgrades was a baffled Canton pan. Love the peace of mind on the twisties

icemans2k02

Thanks for the input guys! I am going to remove the oil pan anyways so that's good advice. I don't drive the car a lot and it's more of a joy ride but I rather do it right then cheap out. Anything else suggested would be appreciated!

With that being said any recommendations on springs and seals and from who? Thanks

Bobby

R00567

1) supertech dual valve springs are very nice for the money, Ferrea is even nicer (but costs more)
2) if you do the retainers i would get a stainless steel version also from supertech (versus titanium retainers for longevity purposes - TI ones wear out quicker BUT are lighter, pros and cons to everything)
3) AP2 oil jet bolts
4) oil pan baffle

(i think i covered all of the bases) :-)

icemans2k02

Yes you did sir thanks! Off to go shopping now!

Singh_snisen

Supertech ti valve train ftw. U don't need to change valve guid or the valve unless they look worn out or high mileage.

Jaspah

I have two cylinder heads here, both +/- 100k miles on them... All the guides are waaaaaaay out of tolerances.
Honda says to replace the guides if the clearance is above 0.11mm
Mine were at least 1mm. So 10 times more than allowed.

​​​​​​This will also lead to oil consumption.
it's worth checking