***Official Gears Thread***
02-05-2009, 07:25 AM
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***Official Gears Thread***
Welcome to "The New Official Gears Thread"! Please feel free to PM me with any and all information you would like to see included in this thread
The Gear Calculator
FD Gears Comparison
Racing & Competition Gears Thread
Puddy Mod Diff
AP2 Tranny in AP1
Another AP2 tranny in AP1 thread
Possible Gears for Us include, but are not limited to...
3.63
yes they are out there... But No one has ever done it on an N/A S2000.3.90 (longer then stock, unheard of for N/A)
4.10 (STOCK)
4.3
4.44
4.56/4.57
4.77
4.90
5.1
^from top to bottom longest-shortest gearing
Gears top Speeds (if your gears are shorter your topspeed is lower, naturally.
GEAR...AP1........................AP2............. ....AP2+9K
3.63 = 187MPH..................XXXMPH...........
3.90 = 174MPH..................158MPH...........
4.10 = 165MPH..................151MPH...........
4.30 = 157MPH..................144MPH...........
4.56 = 149MPH..................135MPH...........
4.77 = 142MPH..................129MPH...........
4.90 = 138MPH..................126MPH...........
5.10 = 133MPH..................121MPH...........
*Stock S2000's are Drag limited to about 160mph*
Effective Gearing factors include Redline 8/9k, Tranny AP1/2, Wheel/tire size. Change any one of these factors and your effective gearing is different. For example a stock Ap1 has 225/35/16 tires put on the rear of the vehicle (all other factors stock still) has about the same effect on gearing as changing the stock gears out for some 4.56s.
Originally Posted by S2KPUDDYDAD,Sep 30 2008, 07:27 PM
I have a 2002 S with a 2005 AP2 transmission and run the 4.3 gear ratio in a Stage 2 PM built differential.� I have had about 22 different rears in the car with most every popular gearing for our car 
�� I like the 4.3 best for me,� I find that speed shifting the car is effortless for me with this ratio.� My timing seems to be natural and smooth with the 4.3� I am not bad with the 4.44 or 4.56/57 but, the 4.77 I cant shift the car to save my but.� The gear comes so fast I just can�t think fast enough to time them right.� With my drive line setup and the 4.77 I could not get through an intersection without having to shift the car to second and before the car would be straight again from the turn at an intersection I would be in third.� The shift points are just to short for me with the 4.77
I have some N/A performance mods�.my own built ram air induction system, Megan wrapped� header, V1 T1R 70 RR single exhaust, Ztec CF heat shield, ARC titanium radiator air diverter, Buddy Club volt regulator & grounding kit, Apexi VAFCII, my own built short through shifter, AP2 transmission, 4.3 PM Stage 2 diff.
Before my mods the car dyno numbers stock were 185 Hp 125 Tq.� After my mods 212 Hp and 140 Tq.
I think the car should have came stock with the 4.3 gear ratio it would have been an even better hit but, I understand why Honda went with the 4.10.� Government standards for fuel efficacy is just one of many factors for the decision I bet.
�� I like the 4.3 best for me,� I find that speed shifting the car is effortless for me with this ratio.� My timing seems to be natural and smooth with the 4.3� I am not bad with the 4.44 or 4.56/57 but, the 4.77 I cant shift the car to save my but.� The gear comes so fast I just can�t think fast enough to time them right.� With my drive line setup and the 4.77 I could not get through an intersection without having to shift the car to second and before the car would be straight again from the turn at an intersection I would be in third.� The shift points are just to short for me with the 4.77I have some N/A performance mods�.my own built ram air induction system, Megan wrapped� header, V1 T1R 70 RR single exhaust, Ztec CF heat shield, ARC titanium radiator air diverter, Buddy Club volt regulator & grounding kit, Apexi VAFCII, my own built short through shifter, AP2 transmission, 4.3 PM Stage 2 diff.
Before my mods the car dyno numbers stock were 185 Hp 125 Tq.� After my mods 212 Hp and 140 Tq.
I think the car should have came stock with the 4.3 gear ratio it would have been an even better hit but, I understand why Honda went with the 4.10.� Government standards for fuel efficacy is just one of many factors for the decision I bet.
02-05-2009, 07:26 AM
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Sourcing Gears
HARDTOPGUY.COM
GTMOTORING
kiaparts.com part# 0K01427110 (4.77s)
Science of Speed
Modifry Products sells yellow jackets
Member Classifieds
WantToBuy Thread
Sponsor Engine & Drivetrain Deals
aj-racing
HARDTOPGUY.COM
GTMOTORING
kiaparts.com part# 0K01427110 (4.77s)
Science of Speed
Modifry Products sells yellow jackets
Member Classifieds
WantToBuy Thread
Sponsor Engine & Drivetrain Deals
aj-racing
02-05-2009, 07:26 AM
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DIY's
Differential Fluid Change DIY
4.44 Install DIY
J's Differential DIY
4.77 install specs and observations
4.57 install specs and observations
Yellow Box wiring how to
Yellow Box settings
01', 04', and CompTech diffs, Photos showing the differance
4.77 instalation by turbo mag *Lots of bad info on other gears in here reader beware! *
Differential Fluid Change DIY
4.44 Install DIY
J's Differential DIY
4.77 install specs and observations
4.57 install specs and observations
Yellow Box wiring how to
Yellow Box settings
01', 04', and CompTech diffs, Photos showing the differance
4.77 instalation by turbo mag *Lots of bad info on other gears in here reader beware! *
02-05-2009, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by S2KPUDDYDAD,Oct 10 2008, 01:55 PM
Break in:
Use a good 75/110 or 75/140 gear oil.
Drive the car civil for 10 miles then park it, let cool down for 12 hours or over night.� You need to do this three times to heat cycle the gears.� Iron holds heat for a long time, I like the long cool down period for this reason.
Drive the car like a civilized human for 500 miles, after two hundred miles you can start to push the car a little more.� VTEC is ok but, no hard shifts down or up.� With every one hundred miles added you can push a little more still.� After 500 miles the rear is fully broke in,
Drain the oil to inspect for problems.� It is normal to find fine metal on the drain magnet and to see a slight metallic sheen to the oil in the first few oil changes.�
Every oil change will always have some metallic cream/metal on the drain plug.
If everything looks good refill with new oil, "normal" driving can begin.
Use a good 75/110 or 75/140 gear oil.
Drive the car civil for 10 miles then park it, let cool down for 12 hours or over night.� You need to do this three times to heat cycle the gears.� Iron holds heat for a long time, I like the long cool down period for this reason.
Drive the car like a civilized human for 500 miles, after two hundred miles you can start to push the car a little more.� VTEC is ok but, no hard shifts down or up.� With every one hundred miles added you can push a little more still.� After 500 miles the rear is fully broke in,
Drain the oil to inspect for problems.� It is normal to find fine metal on the drain magnet and to see a slight metallic sheen to the oil in the first few oil changes.�
Every oil change will always have some metallic cream/metal on the drain plug.
If everything looks good refill with new oil, "normal" driving can begin.
[QUOTE=S2KPUDDYDAD,Feb 12 2009, 07:10 AM]Even with used gears, it is best to do a short break in.
A freshly built rear using used gears will still need a short break in to seat the bearings and run in the newly set gears.
