slowd16

I ran my 3.5" with koyo and stock fans. It rubbed the fan shroud and sway bar

NYS2000TURBO

What did you do to combat it?

NYS2000TURBO

What slim fans is everyone running? Sorry for going off topic for a quick sec

slowd16

Nothing. Just let it rub. wasnt hurting anything. Probably toss a slim fan in before the next motor goes in.

sirbikealot7

Same 3.5" as everyone else, except I added about 6" of 3" before the TB to maximize velocity. We dyno tested back to back between the 4"setup I had previously vs 4" with 3" between it and the TB and the little bit of 3" made more power. I'm pretty sure this setup is optimized.





Here is the dyno sheet

Mods
Berk 3" headerback with additional vibrant resonator
custom 3.5"-3" intake
ballade throttle body
mild intake manifold port to TB
stock header
AEM Infinity tuned by Kenny at SpeedFactory



The low line at 8500 is the straight 4" all the way to the TB like this


the Peak hp line was that same 4" intake with an additional 18" 90* of 3" that was laying around. It lost a couple ft lbs in the midrange but gained 12hp and 8ft lbs up top.

My tuner, Kenny at Speedfactory, who tunes the worlds fastest civic drag cars, said that a 3.5" with a bit of 3" right before the TB would probably be best based on what he has seen, I built it and it feels much stronger than with the 4"

s2000Junky

I'm always interested in checking in on what is being done with these intakes and keep going back and forth on if I actually want to pull the trigger and invest in the custom intake party here. I am still running the stock intake with quite a bit of custom work to deliver fresh cold air and ive got no complaints because I think its been pretty effective, with the main objective of monitoring and seeing AIT low, which is a huge part of getting the power out of this engine/proper timing advance and the whole bit. I have moved the sensor from manifold to the intake such as how the DBW years have it incorporated. If you look at the factory rubber elbow, its actually tapered from a 4"? filter opening to a 3" at TB, so there has to be some principal at play with building velocity already in the stock set up. Part of my reluctance is moving away from rubber intake to a metal/aluminum one. Logic would tell me that since metal transfers more heat then rubber, that your kind of shooting yourself in the foot in that respect with under hood temps heat soaking the pipe. Are any of you guys monitoring your AIT? Id be interested to see some data.

That aside, I think that 4" to 3" setup pictured above would seem to be the way to go about it. However im not sold on running the intake down through the cross member, but rather keep it in the stock location catching the cool air form my custom snorkel. Certainly much easier to service. Im not sold on either short or long ram intakes either. My understanding is each can work, by just shifting the power band up or down much like a short or long intake runner on a manifold and without other matching/coinciding breathing mods, shifting that wave length in the intake over stock might hurt or at min provide nothing, so again im reluctant to move away from the short ram concept. Always love to see data and dynos to show methodology at work with proven gains.

Apex1.0

For me I had, a modded stock air box with a snorkel. It was fine, but I did feel like it suffered from heat soak more. It just didn't seem as consistent. I made a custom 3.5 intake like many on this thread. I wanted an air source that was clear from engine compartment heat soak. It works fine, maybe drives a bit crisper and less consistency issues, but no real data to back it up. I just wanted the project.

i also did the coolant bypass for the tb and iac

s2000Junky

I did this as well although took a step further and capped it off at the block to isolate the entire manifold. Also have a Hondata gasket. Moving the AIT sensor probably was the single largest measurable drop in AIT with a single mod I saw out of all of them, but all of them together is hugely significant over stock and actually lowers AIT, not just the reading. The system still isn't perfect, as inevitably AIT will raise around town in stop and go traffic, but the Temperature ceiling and range has dropped significantly.

By relocated the sensor, I saw an average 20-30F drop in reading. The actual AIT has not dropped, but rather what the sensor actually sees at the incoming air, and that means more timing advance and more power on a stock ecu which I still use. Putting the sensor in a metal tube vs the stock rubber gives me some reservations.

s2000Junky

Some great info here. You are local to me looks like, wonder if we have met in the past. So to clarify, the picture posted at top made the most peak power/trq /229whp? and this is the long tube intake going from 3.5" to 3"? Did you try the short ram/stock location pictured with a 4" or 3.5" to 3" reduced to see what that would make? Wondering how that would fair. Any recommendation/suggestion based on what you gathered from all this?

Is this a F20 or F22?

s2000Junky

Im just wondering based on the data so far, if a 3.5" or 4"? to a 3" in the OEM short ram config would produce the best overall dyno results, with best mid and peak power with no peak drop off shown with the 4" throughout.