Mugen_is_best

You should get in touch with this guy,

https://www.instagram.com/chrishuang/

I recently found his ig account. He has a very nice Amuse build.

cleenyc99

very cool. interesting iac setup, no map sensor? why did you remove the haywards?

pezee

The Toda ITBs look so sexxxxxxxxxyyyyyy!!!!

imstimpy

I have to say I'm extremely impressed with the attention to detail that has gone into the TODA assembly. As I was digging around for ideas of how to easily sync my URGE throttle bodies I came across a smaller resolution photo of the TODA assembly and noticed fittings on the flange. Your photo confirms it: the ITBs include big macro line fittings for MAP/vacuum source and small fittings tapped into the flange for throttle body synchronization. While these little fittings may not seem like much, it is a pretty big revelation to see how TODA did it.

Much the rest of your technical challenges I am also going through. I'm nearly done cleaning my URGE throttle bodies and then I move on to installation.

Issues to Resolve

Lower Coolant Line
I have a metal neck from the flange, though location has been moved from OEM. I intend to buy or build an aluminum coolant male/male extension to lengthen the coolant line slightly. The small TB coolant line will be capped as it has no home.

Surge Tank
I've opted with a basic ITG sausage filter to start. I am no fan of sucking in hot engine bay air, but I want to get the system running first prior to sorting out a plenum. Once running, I intend to mock a plenum out of blue foam then either make it out of fiberglass and then carbon fiber or jump straight to learning vacuum bagged carbon fiber.

Intake for Surge Tank
I've been mulling over this for some time. A few vendors have intake snorkels as you listed- I have a Password JDM intake that could be used. In any case, I'm shooting for 4" piping to a 4" inlet. to produce the most power. They hacked apart an AEM intake to use the filter, 4" inlet tube, and mounting bosses to get from the bumper into the engine bay. The far more elaborate solution would be something like the C-West kit with a custom panel filter box that sources air from the driver's side. Drawing from spdracernut and his work, my intention is to eventually print a NACA duct and have a hybrid of solutions.

Fuel Injectors
While I have yet to confirm, I'm told the increased efficiency of the ITBs pull the OEM injectors back into the safe zone. My car, albeit an AP2, runs into 85% IDC currently and I'm hopeful it comes down and not up with the ITBs. If not, I can use the RDX 440cc injectors. With yours being an AP1, necessitating different diameter injector tops, your best bet is probably ID725s if you need the headroom.

Fuel System Configuration
My system came with a standard fuel rail with fittings on either side. I do not care for just capping an AN fitting so I wanted to go with an ORB style plug instead. Unfortunately for me, my fuel rail uses a proprietary M12x1.75 o-ring to AN fitting and all I can do is cap it. Instead, I'm going to attempt to retrofit a K-series fuel rail with a center feed and a fuel pulse damper. I will either be able to use the EFI fitting and factory fuel line or I'll build an Aeroquip Push-Lok hose that comes from the firewall hardline and drops in. It is too bad the ITB companies introduce proprietary fuel rails and mounting apparatuses because there are a few decent AP1 fuel rail offerings. Nobody does AP2 fuel rails...

Vacuum Lines & Routing
I bought the URGE V2 Vacuum block. It includes a mounting bracket and all the 1/4" hose to plumb from each runner to the block. It balances the signal for MAP, evap, and brake booster vacuum and includes ports to plumb them. All that I need, hopefully, is to source some vacuum line to plumb in the evap and brake booster lines.

Valve Cover Lines & Routing
I've been using a recirculating Saikou Michi dual catch-can but removing the OEM intake manifold and intake tract, with recirculating bosses, leaves nowhere for the separated air to return to the intake. It is true the front breather can be plumbed back into a plenum, pre-throttle. The PCV, however, requires vacuum to function properly and neither plumbing into the vacuum block nor tapping another hole into the small post-throttle runner is desirable. I'm converting to an atmospheric "return" with a PCV delete. I am ditching the Saikou Michi in favor of a Radium dual catch can, with optional filters, to receive the valve breathers and an Aeroflow M18x1.5 barb to replace the PCV.

I realize I'm installing URGE ITBs onto my AP2 while you are installing TODA ITBs onto your AP1, however your installation woes struck a chord with me and so I wanted to share.

djdoc

Hi Feezy,

Any update on your ITB upgrade?

MB

Selling mine if anyone wants the ultimate setup

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-irela...ntake-1171884/

andrewhake

Amazing writeup and photos sir. I am going to casually hang out in this thread until you solve everything and then I will install TODA ITBs on my car, thanks.

S2kAndTheAnt

Andrew Just buy my new in box set, kidding not kidding......

Matt Andy

Whats the ETA on an update !!! V excited to see more

Lost_Remorse

Looks good, can't wait to see it all put together. The surge tank has no issues clearing my Spoon hood so i doubt you will run into any issues with whichever one you use. Right now my focus is plumbing for cooler air, ive been toying with the idea of an airbox with a wide scoop to allow the same volume as a 4inch radius pipe... Or mounting the radiator at an angle to get a pipe over it to snag fresh air from the bumper inlet. I had the guys at InlinePro handle the installation and they nailed it.