Just got done building my F24
#1
Thread Starter
Just got done building my F24
2.4 built Block with ARP head studs
Finished and running
So as the title states I just finished building and installing an F24 stroker Kit into my 2001 S. I know the stroker motors have been discussed at length in these forums. But I’m going to give you my experience with the whole process for those of you that are thinking about doing something like this.
About 3 years ago I found out that my cylinder number 2 oil jet bolt would not tighten and was able to use some locktite to hold it in place. So about 1000 miles later I decided to pull my oil pan down and see how it was fairing. Well it backed out about a quarter turn. So I decided I was gonna build a motor.
I sourced an F22 bare block that had some horrible scoring on the cylinder walls. Bought a King’s Performance stroker Kit with 11.1-1 comp pistons and some Darton steel dry sleeves and took it to a local machine shop called Engine Specialties. They cleaned the block installed the sleeves decked it and finished bored the cylinders to 87MM. I began the assembly process and plastigagued the bearings and measured all my tolerances. During that process and some reading on these forums I found the pistons came into contact with oil jets. So I notched them myself with a round file and camphered the edges. Everything was now clear and the engine turned with no interference.
Now to the install. First I disassembled the original engine in the car by stripping down the engine to just the block. Removed the engine mounts. Lowered the engine enough with a jack to remove the upper trans bolts. Jacked the engine back up and removed the rest of the bolts and placed a jack under the trans to hold it up. Grabbed a cherry picker and pulled the block out. Then installed the new block in the reverse order. I did this all on jack stands with no lift.
After getting eveything back back together and all fluids filled I started it off of a previous tune (AEM series2) and obviously it was very lean. I then adjusted the fuel map on the tune and got it running well on the stock injectors. I then installed some RDX 410cc injectors and did some more adjusting. The car is running great. I’m scheduled for a tune at Evans Tuning on March 1st. And I will update this post with my dyno results.
The car as it sits right now has the following mods
2.4 liter stroked F22 block 11.1-1 comp pistons
Stock F20 head
Brian Crower stage 2 cams with BC dual valve springs
Ballade sports Header
Ballade sports step up HFC
HKS hi power 3 inch single exit exhaust
Ballade sports 70mm T-body
port matched stock Intake manifold
Ballade sports Intake tune in stock gutted airbox
Any question anyone has I'd be more then happy to answer!!!
Last edited by Ajval79; 02-18-2019 at 08:37 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Benjamean (02-03-2021)
#3
Very cool, I can't wait to see what the curve ends up looking like
#5
Thread Starter
So yeah what I did was unbolted the top bolt on the engine mounts. lifted the engine block enough to pull the mounts out, but left the brackets attached to the engine, then lowered the engine down and removed the top bolts. I then raised the engine back up and put a jack stand under the trans to hold it in place. removed the remaining trans bolts and the crank pulley which gave me enough room to pull the engine forward and cherry picked the block out. and put the new block in the reverse order. I left the drive shaft and trans mount attached. You do have to unbolt the 4 10mm bolts that hold the lower dust boot to the body.
#6
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#9
Community Organizer
I just noticed, you're still running an air pump?!
#10
Thread Starter
I kept it on there to get NJ inspection sticker. I recently purchased the delete module for next inspection, Believe it or not the car run ok off of the stock ECU with the 410cc injectors. Good enough for me to pass the NJ emissions test.