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Typical Oil Pressure and Temp Readings

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Old 01-24-2013, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by c32b
Sorry guys but i must have missed out my oil cooler in my list of mods. When I was stock (no bolt ons with Flashpro) , a combo of stock radiator and Greddy oil cooler could allow me continuous hot laps from full tank to empty while revving the snot out of it.

Once I went to bolt ons and a higher rpm, the heat started to build. I needed a radiator, thermostat, fan switches but heat would still rise after 5-7 laps and I would have to start to manage the heat. I must admit that ambient temps are postiviely searing at the track that I go to. A vented hood (used J'S FRP one at 250 USD) and addition of MoCool in my coolant solved it while on Motul 5w-30. Oil pressures are stellar. Now I'm back to lapping without pause....

Except now my pads self destruct even with brake ducting lol! Just the fronts though. Getting SOS rotors to solve it for good hopefully.
Really curious how the SoS rotors help over stock rotors with brake ducting. I just assumed that the SoS rotors would be a significant improvement over stock, but with ducting the rotors wouldn't make much difference because you are already moving a lot of air through them with the ducts. If you go this direction please post a review.
Old 01-24-2013, 02:04 PM
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great thread. hope more people chime in. I will add my data soon its close to 0 degrees so any data I get now is worthless
Old 01-24-2013, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MSRS2K
Originally Posted by c32b' timestamp='1359037316' post='22288940
Sorry guys but i must have missed out my oil cooler in my list of mods. When I was stock (no bolt ons with Flashpro) , a combo of stock radiator and Greddy oil cooler could allow me continuous hot laps from full tank to empty while revving the snot out of it.

Once I went to bolt ons and a higher rpm, the heat started to build. I needed a radiator, thermostat, fan switches but heat would still rise after 5-7 laps and I would have to start to manage the heat. I must admit that ambient temps are postiviely searing at the track that I go to. A vented hood (used J'S FRP one at 250 USD) and addition of MoCool in my coolant solved it while on Motul 5w-30. Oil pressures are stellar. Now I'm back to lapping without pause....

Except now my pads self destruct even with brake ducting lol! Just the fronts though. Getting SOS rotors to solve it for good hopefully.
Really curious how the SoS rotors help over stock rotors with brake ducting. I just assumed that the SoS rotors would be a significant improvement over stock, but with ducting the rotors wouldn't make much difference because you are already moving a lot of air through them with the ducts. If you go this direction please post a review.
No prob. Probably open a separate thread to keep this thread on topic
Old 01-30-2013, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Unbr3akable
I have been logging oil pressure data for the past year, attached is some data from a recent track day at VIR.
The top, middle, and bottom plots are lateral Acceleration [g], RPM, and oil pressure [PSI], respectively. Engine is completely stock.

Observations:

1.) Above 6000 RPMS / VTEC, the oil pressure is consistently between 70-75 PSI

2.) Below 6000 RPMS / VTEC, the oil pressure would rise with RPM between ~20 (idle) to 90 PSI (just before VTEC engagement)

3.) As you noted, I consistently measure an oil pressure drop between 10-15 PSI when VTEC is engaged, and vice versa.



Hope this helps,
Caleb
Interesting the very significant drop in oil pressure on any high g turn....probably why I lost two engines....can't wait to try out the Accusump I installed.
Old 01-31-2013, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by davidc1
Originally Posted by Unbr3akable' timestamp='1347056640' post='21996046
I have been logging oil pressure data for the past year, attached is some data from a recent track day at VIR.
The top, middle, and bottom plots are lateral Acceleration [g], RPM, and oil pressure [PSI], respectively. Engine is completely stock.

Observations:

1.) Above 6000 RPMS / VTEC, the oil pressure is consistently between 70-75 PSI

2.) Below 6000 RPMS / VTEC, the oil pressure would rise with RPM between ~20 (idle) to 90 PSI (just before VTEC engagement)

3.) As you noted, I consistently measure an oil pressure drop between 10-15 PSI when VTEC is engaged, and vice versa.



Hope this helps,
Caleb
Interesting the very significant drop in oil pressure on any high g turn....probably why I lost two engines....can't wait to try out the Accusump I installed.
The drop in oil pressure is more associated with vtec engagement than lateral acceleration. I believe more motors are lost to high oil temps than oil starvation. I think most would benefit from an oil cooler before a baffled pan.
Old 02-02-2013, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by turbo8765
Originally Posted by davidc1' timestamp='1359610584' post='22304455
[quote name='Unbr3akable' timestamp='1347056640' post='21996046']
I have been logging oil pressure data for the past year, attached is some data from a recent track day at VIR.
The top, middle, and bottom plots are lateral Acceleration [g], RPM, and oil pressure [PSI], respectively. Engine is completely stock.

Observations:

1.) Above 6000 RPMS / VTEC, the oil pressure is consistently between 70-75 PSI

2.) Below 6000 RPMS / VTEC, the oil pressure would rise with RPM between ~20 (idle) to 90 PSI (just before VTEC engagement)

3.) As you noted, I consistently measure an oil pressure drop between 10-15 PSI when VTEC is engaged, and vice versa.



Hope this helps,
Caleb
Interesting the very significant drop in oil pressure on any high g turn....probably why I lost two engines....can't wait to try out the Accusump I installed.
The drop in oil pressure is more associated with vtec engagement than lateral acceleration. I believe more motors are lost to high oil temps than oil starvation. I think most would benefit from an oil cooler before a baffled pan.
[/quote]

You're right, I wasn't looking at the graphs correctly....the scales are not real easy to read.

I disagree about why motors are lost though. While our cars do run hot at the track compared with many others, any descent syn oil can withstand temps up to 300+degrees, and the hottest I've heard anybody run is about 290degrees. These temps are not a problem for the usual 20-25min session.

The baffled oil pan I think is only a limited solution. First, it's possible that many pans are poorly designed at keeping oil around the pickup for the pump. Just putting a bunch of metal in the pan doesn't necessarily help. But, even if the baffle in the pan is designed well, it can't do much for sustained high g force turns. If you are on a high g turn for more than a couple of seconds, the oil can still work it's way around the baffles away from the pickup. And then, if the baffle is poorly designed, it can actually impede the oil from getting back into the area around the pickup.

It only takes a couple of seconds of low oil pressure to damage and engine.

Unfortunately, there aren't enough of us who have oil pressure and temp gauges, and log the info, and who have lost an engine, to really be able to check this out.
Old 02-02-2013, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by davidc1
Unfortunately, there aren't enough of us who have oil pressure and temp gauges, and log the info, and who have lost an engine, to really be able to check this out.
Very good point.

For the record, I've logged oil temps of 285 with an ambient temp of 40 degrees. I'd hate to know what my temps were last summer, but I'm sure I exceeded 300f.
Old 02-02-2013, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by turbo8765
Originally Posted by davidc1' timestamp='1359837427' post='22310304
Unfortunately, there aren't enough of us who have oil pressure and temp gauges, and log the info, and who have lost an engine, to really be able to check this out.
Very good point.

For the record, I've logged oil temps of 285 with an ambient temp of 40 degrees. I'd hate to know what my temps were last summer, but I'm sure I exceeded 300f.
From what I understand, oil temps are not very dependent on ambient temps. Coolant temps are more dependent on ambient temps, but, again, for a late model car, in 20-25min sessions, temps for both should be under control pretty easily despite high ambient temps.
Old 02-02-2013, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by davidc1
From what I understand, oil temps are not very dependent on ambient temps. Coolant temps are more dependent on ambient temps, but, again, for a late model car, in 20-25min sessions, temps for both should be under control pretty easily despite high ambient temps.
That is not the case actually. A 370Z will cook the oil causing limp mode in just hard street driving. If it's a track day and it's remotely hot, it'll only go a few laps before hitting 300F oil temps. The Evo MR with the dual clutch tranny will overheat the tranny fluid in a few laps causing it to go into limp mode. The S2k runs very hot oil temps; IMO, any stock S2000 that is tracked often should invest in an oil cooler. I hit over 270F oil temps while at Buttonwillow on a hot day and I backed off. If I had not backed off, the oil temps would have gone higher for sure.
Old 02-03-2013, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by spdracerut
Originally Posted by davidc1' timestamp='1359843173' post='22310453

From what I understand, oil temps are not very dependent on ambient temps. Coolant temps are more dependent on ambient temps, but, again, for a late model car, in 20-25min sessions, temps for both should be under control pretty easily despite high ambient temps.
That is not the case actually. A 370Z will cook the oil causing limp mode in just hard street driving. If it's a track day and it's remotely hot, it'll only go a few laps before hitting 300F oil temps. The Evo MR with the dual clutch tranny will overheat the tranny fluid in a few laps causing it to go into limp mode. The S2k runs very hot oil temps; IMO, any stock S2000 that is tracked often should invest in an oil cooler. I hit over 270F oil temps while at Buttonwillow on a hot day and I backed off. If I had not backed off, the oil temps would have gone higher for sure.
Well answered. A hot day at the track vs a cool cloudy day will be obvious in oil temp differences. Oil cooler is essential I think to me as it lowers temps throughout the engine. Buying a proper core is important as well. I went for a Greddy turbo sized core vs the regular core meant for s2k and my oil temps were always nicely maintained. Someone who tried to cheap out with a made in china replica core was experiencing 20-30 deg C higher temps.


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