dan_uk

have a lot of understeer in my car, it picks up a push on entry, sometimes you can get on the gas and bring the rear round and sometimes it just pushes realy bad when you get on the gas
I changed a few things on the setup I'm wondering if its possible the diff is bad and staying locked up or something?
Its a stock torsen diff, I'm realy eliminate that as a possible cause/issue

Chuck S

OEM car? Or diddled suspension, wheels, and tires?

-- Chuck

SpitfireS

Change the diff oil.
Ideally into something like 75W-110 or 75W-140, or, maybe even better, a single grade SAE 110 or 140 for a pure track car.

The thing is that the final drive gears chew up the diff oil and it will change the lock of the Torsen over time (even with the thicker oil)
There is a lot of sliding between the teeth of the high offset hypoid gears in the S2k diff.
The Torsen can live with that but the thinner oil WILL change the lock action.

dan_uk

Thanks I'll try to put one of those in, I don't remember when I last changed it or what it is it could be 2 year old redline MTL or mobil1 gear oil in there

bdo

What else did you change in your setup? This sounds more like alignment or something, to me.

Mrsideways

Or something broke. Does it do the same left and right. Drove an RSX a year or so back that would turn left but not right and found one of the struts blown.

dan_uk

Its realy both left and right but more noticeable at roebling on the right handers, it happens at medium and high speed but its also a bit pushy at auto-x speeds.

I guess it started with the Poly compliance bushings and the kognition wing (from apr cheapy wing)
I drilled the wing mounts so I can get a negative AOA on the wing
I tried to go down on the front bar and up on the rear bar so I went back to oem 03 bars (from 01 front 04 rear)
I went down 50lbs on front spring to 600/600 also adjusted shocks to lowest setting where I used to run front 1/2 turn higher than rear also tried to run less tire pressure up front which (seems to help for auto-x)

I changed the rear subframe with one with welded adjuster tabs and also checked all adjusters where good.

This last track day I put a few more turns on the front shocks and cut the bumpstops to check it wasn't riding around on the stops.

I think my tires are pretty shot to at this point but I wanted to try to eliminate everything I can for next time.
I can't believe it is the wing since other people run that wing with more AOA and to drove it feels like something mechanical/binding.

I am wondering if the swaybar(s) with oem endlinks have a lot of preload and are binding was going to try adjustable endlinks and have it re corner balanced.

the alignment I always run is about:
-2.5 camber front (max)
5 caster
0 toe or a touch of toe-out front

-3 camber rear (maxish)
rear toe-in 0.10-20degree total

flanders

Redline MTL in the diff? That would be really terrible, change it as soon as possible.

ddess

Rear diff mounts ok?

I had a lurch to the left when I would come off throttle. I found my passenger side rear diff mount was toast yet it didn't show any visibility signs. However when I tried to loosten the center nut the mount just twisted with little to no resistance.

f20kills

Kognition wing is A LOT of wing for NA if you are NA. Also if you dont have big front areo. I hated that wing when I had it
5" splitter minimum with that wing lol. But if you dont think its the wing....maybe your tires are shot like you said. Dess has a good point too