cesarortiz

you guys i been getting this problem for ever this is my second thread i make on this

the last time was a while back i never got to the conclusion to this and now it is giving me a headache .

so my car kept going on limp mode after washing it or heavy rain and i would get this code
2138 is the APP Sensor A/B (TP Sensor D/E) Incorrect Voltage Correlation

i would clear the code the car would go back to normal so i figured i had to replace the sensor that goes on the driver side in the engine bay..


A couple of days later i wash my car same issue again car on limp mode same code again.

now by this time i was frustrated i would just clear the code car back to norma or disconnect the battery car back to normal .

now not to long ago i started to track my car and now it doesn't even have to be raining for it to go on limp mode i would take a hard right turn and my car would go on limp mode and same code would pop out ..

yesterday while driving it normal and being at the drive thru getting food again limp mode the car being at idle

i mean wth? is there something i have to do ?





billman i need help on this one lol

Slowcrash_101

There's a wire shorting or opening, or has varying resistance from rubbing on something. You'll have to look at the harness, check for continuity, wiggle the wires while you check. Pretty sure you can find it. Use a DVOM and check ohms, should be 0 or very little ohms, if you wiggle and you get a spike that's your issue.

*Check with the car off.

cesarortiz

thanks ima give that a try and see hows it goes i will update you soon how it goes..

cesarortiz

so it seems like i found my problem i found a blue cable all wrapped open like if maybe a rat had maybe chewed it or something I'm not too sure exactly what happen but any ways this cable is located right below the small fuse box that is driver side engine bay area were the abs is at.
this cable looks like it goes in to the harness that goes towards the throttle body sensor


earlier today i didnt have a check engine light after finding the problem and moving this cable around check engine light came back on so I'm guessing thats my problem right there.

Slowcrash_101

Yep all you gotta do is repair the wire. The proper way would be to cut the wire place some shrink wrap, and then solder the wire and heat the shrink wrap to get a weather tight seal. Alternately, you can wrap it in electrical tape and weather proof the wire by sealing it with clear rtv.

cesarortiz

still can't find the issue to this i found a wire a while back that looked like it was chewed up some how some way i got it fixed
so that wasn't the problem
I'm getting tired of this problem it randomly happens when ever i go to the track or canyons it happens to me on hard right turns!.

is so weird 2138 is the APP Sensor A/B (TP Sensor D/E) Incorrect Voltage Correlation

thats my code all the time...

BrickOwens

Did you ever find the problem? I’ve been having this issue lately. If so please help it’s like I’m chasing a ghost

Car Analogy

Is yours the same right turns trips it? Or is it more when you're flooring the pedal?

First step is normally replacing the APPS sensor. Honda only sells this as an assembly, for around $250. Its only the sensor that will go bad, but it has to be calibrated to work, so they factory calibrate it then lock it down with tamper proof screws.

On most Honda & Acura, aftermarket sells just the sensor. Grind screwdriver slot into head, and they give you normal screws for the new one. Calibration is on you.

But no one makes one that really works with our engines. Found one thats supposed to work, but its really for Honda Pilot, and to get ot to calibrate on our engines is near impossible.

I did it, and created a diy thread, but a couple years later and its acting up again.

Rock Auto sells aftermarket version that includes the entire, calibrated assembly. Around $175. Seems decent.

The part that actually goes bad is a simple potentiometer. Normally some contact cleaner spray would renew it for years more life. But its sealed.

My latest idea is dissect a sensor to determine best place to drill small hole to fit red hose from contact cleaner spray can to clean it out and renew. Then seal hole with like silicone or something. Maybe need two holes, one for drain.

This could then be the go to solution for when this code trips. Best part is you'd maintain factory part ans factory calibration, and fix would be practically free (if you diy it).

Car Analogy

Update:

S2000 APPS p/n: 37971-pzx-003

On a whim I ordered the part from Rock Auto. What arrived is the oem part!

url=https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=37971-pzx-003]RockAuto APPS[/url]

RA lists it as made by WVE (Wells Vehicle Electronics), which is now owned by NTK, which itself is part of the more familiar NGK. The part came in a WVE box. But what was in the box is the oem part, made by Keihin. Even has same hand made factory assembly markings for calibration and fixture placements as the original.

There is one difference, the throttle return spring tension is stiffer on the new one. I can see the spring is ever so slightly thicker, so its not simply old spring became slackened. I'm gonna guess Honda revised spring tension for '08-'09, and subsequently all replacement parts use the newer spec.

Remember the throttle cable from pedal goes directly to this sensor (and actual tb butterfly controlled electronically by ecu to a stepper motor on tb, dbw). So this spring is the resistance you'll feel at pedal.

My theory: NGK/NTK bought the rights to make this part from Keihin. Keihin supplied their fixtures and inventory. WVE either made the part I received using those fixtures, and they didn't bother to change casting mold that still says Keihin, or maybe WVE hasn't sold all the inventory they received from the Keihin, so my part is NOS.

Either way it appears buying WVE from RA will result in an oem part!