When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I don't understand why those numbers lead to the conclusion that 10/40 oil is best for you. There are variables other than oil weight changing for each analysis and the changes in your numbers are minimial. What am I missing?
In the OP other post about oil pressure I said that I read(and saw some firsthand) engine failuers on here a few years back. So that made me check my oil pressure, it was a little low at idle so I moved up a grade and never looked back. That was when my car had around 45k miles, my wear numbers are now under avg. the TBN shows I could run my oil longer and sometimes I do. Now that they changed the damn oil again because of CAFE I am going to have to find out if the new CAFE will change A/W and F/M in these H/M oils.
The OP has 12 to 20 psi at idle, how low would you let it go before you moved up a grade of oil? Or would you just take the car off the street and rebuild it? I've had a car that I ran striaght 40w because the bearings were so loose but the 40w gave enough boundary layer strengh that that '61 Dodge made it through 3 1/2 years of college.
I just changed my oil so I have a few months to find out if the new CAFE standards change the 10/40 HM oils or not. If they did, then I'll go with a oil that is not under the governments thumb and has the A/W and F/M that will protect my Honda. And if I do have to change oil's I will check with a uoa to see if its doing what I what it to do and that is to keep wear numbers low.
To the OP I would still take off your oil filter and cut it open to see what there, if you don't have a bunch of small, medium to large flakes I'd just move up to a 10/40HM oil and see what your oil pressure is at NOT.
In the OP other post about oil pressure I said that I read(and saw some firsthand) engine failuers on here a few years back. So that made me check my oil pressure, it was a little low at idle so I moved up a grade and never looked back. That was when my car had around 45k miles, my wear numbers are now under avg. the TBN shows I could run my oil longer and sometimes I do. Now that they changed the damn oil again because of CAFE I am going to have to find out if the new CAFE will change A/W and F/M in these H/M oils.
The OP has 12 to 20 psi at idle, how low would you let it go before you moved up a grade of oil? Or would you just take the car off the street and rebuild it? I've had a car that I ran striaght 40w because the bearings were so loose but the 40w gave enough boundary layer strengh that that '61 Dodge made it through 3 1/2 years of college.
I just changed my oil so I have a few months to find out if the new CAFE standards change the 10/40 HM oils or not. If they did, then I'll go with a oil that is not under the governments thumb and has the A/W and F/M that will protect my Honda. And if I do have to change oil's I will check with a uoa to see if its doing what I what it to do and that is to keep wear numbers low.
To the OP I would still take off your oil filter and cut it open to see what there, if you don't have a bunch of small, medium to large flakes I'd just move up to a 10/40HM oil and see what your oil pressure is at NOT.
ROD
I do plan on cutting my oil filter open on my next oil change when I switch to 10W-40. I'll also be going back to the OEM filter, currently using a mobile1 filter. I put a magnetic drain plug in and the last time I changed it I found no metal on the plug, not sure if that's a good thing or not but I thought I would share. Thanks for the help guys, I'll keep you posted.
I just received the whole amsoil line up myself , I'll be changing all the fluids this weekend. And re greasing my shifter, I've always noticed that the amsoil trans fluid helps some with the notichness. Just my 2 cent
Once the snow is gone and the salt off the roads so I can get my car out of the storage barn and in my garage I'll be changing the engine oil, transmission oil and dif oil to fresh Amsoil. I am anxious to see if it has any noticeable impact on the transmission function. I doubt it. But, we shall see.
Filter looks good, if you had bearings going south you would see a LOT of it in the filter. Same goes for rings, piston skirts or cylinder walls, cams and rockers too. They would all end up in the filter.
03-26-2017, 11:19 AM
