AP1 S2000 Engine ticking - Stumped!!
02-22-2017, 02:05 PM
#41
RTFM! 
My '06 owners manual states:
-- Chuck
My '06 owners manual states:
Your vehicle is designed to operate
on premium unleaded gasoline with a
pump octane of 91 or higher. Use of
a lower octane gasoline can cause
occasional metallic knocking noises
in the engine and will result in
decreased engine performance. Use
of a gasoline with a pump octane less
than 87 can lead to engine damage.
on premium unleaded gasoline with a
pump octane of 91 or higher. Use of
a lower octane gasoline can cause
occasional metallic knocking noises
in the engine and will result in
decreased engine performance. Use
of a gasoline with a pump octane less
than 87 can lead to engine damage.
02-22-2017, 05:28 PM
#42
Thread Starter
02-23-2017, 03:22 AM
#43
You're probably good if you didn't drop below 87 octane. You're forgiven for not reading the missing sticker, but not for ignoring the owner's manual. 
We has someone here last year who failed to read the manual and put some lightweight oil in his differential and wondered why it died. Information is readily available on fuel and lubricants.
-- Chuck
We has someone here last year who failed to read the manual and put some lightweight oil in his differential and wondered why it died. Information is readily available on fuel and lubricants.
-- Chuck
02-23-2017, 03:58 AM
#44
I saw this thread several days ago but was reluctant to comment as I really have no knowledge of the S2000 engine (any engine, for that matter) and because Billman had chimed in with advice - and I'm not going to second guess him. When I heard the video, my immediate reaction was piston slap or rod knock.
The history of "recent engine rebuild" pointed me in those directions. I think both piston slap and rod knock would be caused by improper clearances during a rebuild. I was unable to see the photo posted on the engine rebuild, but unless it was a blueprinted engine, I don't think it would tell you much. I recently had an engine rebuilt (not S2000). I know all of the trick parts that are in it, but have absolutely no idea of the actual clearances utilized by the builder. He is sort of famous / infamous for departing from the factory manual on bearing clearances and who knows what else.
The history of "recent engine rebuild" pointed me in those directions. I think both piston slap and rod knock would be caused by improper clearances during a rebuild. I was unable to see the photo posted on the engine rebuild, but unless it was a blueprinted engine, I don't think it would tell you much. I recently had an engine rebuilt (not S2000). I know all of the trick parts that are in it, but have absolutely no idea of the actual clearances utilized by the builder. He is sort of famous / infamous for departing from the factory manual on bearing clearances and who knows what else.
02-23-2017, 04:37 AM
#45
Thread Starter
You're probably good if you didn't drop below 87 octane. You're forgiven for not reading the missing sticker, but not for ignoring the owner's manual.
We has someone here last year who failed to read the manual and put some lightweight oil in his differential and wondered why it died. Information is readily available on fuel and lubricants.
-- Chuck
We has someone here last year who failed to read the manual and put some lightweight oil in his differential and wondered why it died. Information is readily available on fuel and lubricants.
-- Chuck
I saw this thread several days ago but was reluctant to comment as I really have no knowledge of the S2000 engine (any engine, for that matter) and because Billman had chimed in with advice - and I'm not going to second guess him. When I heard the video, my immediate reaction was piston slap or rod knock.
The history of "recent engine rebuild" pointed me in those directions. I think both piston slap and rod knock would be caused by improper clearances during a rebuild. I was unable to see the photo posted on the engine rebuild, but unless it was a blueprinted engine, I don't think it would tell you much. I recently had an engine rebuilt (not S2000). I know all of the trick parts that are in it, but have absolutely no idea of the actual clearances utilized by the builder. He is sort of famous / infamous for departing from the factory manual on bearing clearances and who knows what else.
The history of "recent engine rebuild" pointed me in those directions. I think both piston slap and rod knock would be caused by improper clearances during a rebuild. I was unable to see the photo posted on the engine rebuild, but unless it was a blueprinted engine, I don't think it would tell you much. I recently had an engine rebuilt (not S2000). I know all of the trick parts that are in it, but have absolutely no idea of the actual clearances utilized by the builder. He is sort of famous / infamous for departing from the factory manual on bearing clearances and who knows what else.
I still think the valves may need adjusted. None of the shops messed with them but like everyone on here warned me the s2k engine has tricky valves that it seems no one wants to mess with. If borescope comes back good I am going to adjust the valves myself and go from there.
02-24-2017, 11:05 AM
#46
Registered User
why not adjust the valves first? i think that's the easiest thing to do diagnostics wise at this point.
highly recommend you use the Honda valve adjustment tool if you're doing it yourself.
highly recommend you use the Honda valve adjustment tool if you're doing it yourself.
02-27-2017, 10:20 AM
#47
Thread Starter
To update everyone on where I am at, I have been trying to find a good borescope to check the cylinder walls, I got one but I couldn't see the walls very well. Pistons have a decent amount of carbon buildup but nothing crazy.. Since the shop claimed they pinpointed it to cylinder 4, I decided to do my own work on it and ran the engine with all the coil packs unbolted and pulled individual coils to try and verify it is a specific cylinder. I was unable to do so, the noise made absolutely _no_ distinguishable difference when I pulled any of the coils. I tried each one at least twice. I feel relatively confident in saying it is not a specific cylinder causing the noise, leading me back to thinking it is valve train related. I am going to take another video and rev the motor and try to show the sound better to get some more opinions.
02-28-2017, 03:57 AM
#49
Thread Starter
I just dropped it off this morning at another shop who I've had done work for me in the past and I pretty much told them to diagnose it and adjust the valves.. hopefully they will actually do it.
02-28-2017, 04:23 AM
#50
Thread Starter
Here is the second video anyways, I understand the next step is to adjust the valves I have just had more than a few shops tell me to scrap the engine and I am really looking for any other advice on things to check for a noise like this.