Bad Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave
#1
Bad Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave
I am posting this in order to help those who may have to same issue as I had and maybe to shed some light to a problem they are encountering.
I was told by my mechanic a year ago to change my clutch master cylinder and slave because he noticed it was leaking.
This is how it looked
I went a year with this leak and finally I check my clutch fluid reservoir and their was just black mud in there. The problems that arose was it was extremely hard to get into reverse and into gears at stop. It was also hard to get into gears while the car was moving but a lot easier then at stop and extremely hard to downshift. I also notices a different feel to my clutch pedal, probably from all the air it sucked up from letting it go dry and some weird free play to the clutch pedal.
I temporarily alleviated the issue by sucking out the bad fluid in the reservoir and filling it with clean new brake fluid. You can find a baby feeder syringe at Walgreens if you need something to take out whats in the reservoir.
I finally took my mechanics advice and changed the clutch master cylinder and slave.
Here is the parts installed.
After install I instantly felt the difference, it all went back to normal. So this thread is just for those searching for advise because I was doing the same and found a lot of mixed replies.
I hope this is helpful.
Jason
I was told by my mechanic a year ago to change my clutch master cylinder and slave because he noticed it was leaking.
This is how it looked
I went a year with this leak and finally I check my clutch fluid reservoir and their was just black mud in there. The problems that arose was it was extremely hard to get into reverse and into gears at stop. It was also hard to get into gears while the car was moving but a lot easier then at stop and extremely hard to downshift. I also notices a different feel to my clutch pedal, probably from all the air it sucked up from letting it go dry and some weird free play to the clutch pedal.
I temporarily alleviated the issue by sucking out the bad fluid in the reservoir and filling it with clean new brake fluid. You can find a baby feeder syringe at Walgreens if you need something to take out whats in the reservoir.
I finally took my mechanics advice and changed the clutch master cylinder and slave.
Here is the parts installed.
After install I instantly felt the difference, it all went back to normal. So this thread is just for those searching for advise because I was doing the same and found a lot of mixed replies.
I hope this is helpful.
Jason
#2
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: So. Cal
Posts: 26
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Thanks for your post! I am actually experiencing the same clutch problem. My clutch has more than half way freeplay and found out that my clutch master cylinder is leaking, just like yours. My clutch fluid reservoir is very low and just left with black mud. I will add some brake fluid tomorrow and see if it helps.
#4
Moderator
Keep in mnd 90 percent of s2k clutch master cyls look just like that. Fluid change (just the res, no need to bleed) is a great idea every 5k miles.
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#8
Registered User
#9
Registered User
Thanks for the response. So I'm planning on replacing the slave cylinder while I'm at it. Do I just need those basic parts (master cylinder w/resevoir and slave cylinder) or are there additional parts I need to complete the repair (hoses, screws, lines, etc).
#10
I noticed the other day my clutch master was going. I was driving down to my buddies shop and about a mile before I got there the pedal got weird and was going to the floor, then building back up pressure... well come to find out yes the master was leaking inside pretty bad. But heres the kicker... I believe when i was going to engage the clutch when i was at the shop and it wouldnt engage then powered off the vehicle the clutch is now partialy engaged so my current electrical system is weak and is now trying to turn over the clutch too and not just the flywheel like it should be. Im thinking as soon as the new master goes in and the clutch is bleed it will be fine. But my friend is thinking "it doesnt feel right" and is affraid my comp twin has been no fully disengaging this whole time so the pressure plate and material has bonded together and heated up to the point where the clutch is shot! anyone shed light on the situation? I dont see how my clutch could just be shot when it never smelled, slipped, or had any sort of issue in the 3,000-5,000 miles I have had it.