Prokaw875

It also has the hydro throw out bearing like all the competition clutch twin discs have.

travanx

I just had my master clutch cylinder replaced and couldn't believe how easy it it to shift into gears now. I wasn't able to get into reverse very easily this morning when driving to the shop to replace the clutch which I thought was bad. They said with how the clutch was sticking to the floor and bouncing back I was going to burn the clutch out really fast. They also said I should be flushing the system at least once a year to help prevent the problem. The problem must have been slowly getting worse as I noticed shifting getting worse and worse over the last 6 months, not to mention the clutch pedal getting a strange feeling to it to the eventual almost sticking to the floor.

BEASTMODE

I would agree on changing the fluid annually. That stuff gets nasty real quick.

stakss2k

I was at a complete stop then went into first gear and started rolling when I went into first I heard a funny noise so I dropped it into 2nd and my clutch fell all the way down to the ground then I picked it up with my foot and tried to step on the clutch again but the peddle is stuck at the top where it normally sits and doesnt go back down like if theres heavy pressure on the clutch now , I went under and looked at the clutch master cylinder and theres some grease/oil in there now as it shows on the top pictures , I plan on changing the CMC but any other advice I should look into ?

silvermonster

i notice i am losing clutch fluid and see that its coming from the slave. What would cause the slave to go bad? is it because of the seal?

I have a 2006 and removed the cdv. Do I just buy a pre-2004 to put in...i guess i have to research but I do remember something about having to modified the ap1 slave to work on the 06+

shind3

Mine looks the same. Fluid change (res only) is totally doable and something I don't mind doing. But just for curiosity's sake, when a CMC looks like that, does that mean it's out-of-spec?

slipstream444

I just cleaned and bled my system - the fluid in there was a mess. Before power bleeding the system I took the slave cylinder apart, lightly ran some 1200 and 2000 grit over and adjacent to the worn areas on the piston and cylinder (one side of the piston and one area of the cylinder bore had noticeably polished wear), thoroughly cleaned everything, greased the seals, fresh grease on the piston to pushrod contact point (under the dust boot), fresh grease on the release fork pivot - and then primed the system, gravity bled and finally power bled the system. Took about 1.5-2.0 hrs - but the difference was night and day.

What possessed me to do all that? I was trouble shooting a clutch-buzz type of sound. I have the improved disc so I was pretty sure it wasn't the classic clutch deceleration buzz, and I could feel the vibration in the clutch pedal (light pedal touch also made it go away). Sure enough - the buzz not only was greatly reduced, it almost completely went away. I think the clip that retains the release fork pivot point is the instigator, and the vibration was being amplified by every linked part that had sloughed off any residual grease. A little more grease in strategic locations should eliminate the last remnants of the buzz.
My car has 90k miles and the master and slave cylinders are original. I will take the slave cylinder apart again in another 20k or so to see how everything is doing, and to re-lube with fresh grease.

Anyway, I have an ACT PP, which has a noticeably heavier feel than stock. After all that work - it felt much lighter.

Note to self - I WILL swap out fluid in the clutch master cylinder every 5-10K miles or 6 months from now on.

slipstream444

The slave cylinder piston seals can go bad. Additionally, if at some point when the slave cylinder was unbolted from it's mount someone stepped on the clutch, it would have forced the piston to come out of the cylinder (resulting in fluid pushing past the piston and filling the dust boot with brake fluid). If you don't disassemble the slave cylinder to clean up the mess - this can allow sand/abrasive grit to get into the slave cylinder and damage the seals. The seals could have also been damaged when the slave cylinder was disassembled for modification - or again, sand or other abrasive substance could have been introduced into the slave cylinder during disassembly.

rzrDrew

Hi guys, as you can tell i'm new to the forum last August but parked the car for the winter and now am getting it back and ready for spring/summer. Last year I did a complete bleed of the clutch and sanding of the ball end of the rod per someone's posted instructions on here (easy to follow) and that helped my problem a bit but not completely. So this spring I want to just replace the whole lot with new parts because I'd rather spend a few bucks and have it work perfectly than try and skimp and not be happy. Does anyone have recommendations of manufacturer? or just stick with Honda oem parts? I see on partsgeek.com one brand is twice the price of another (looks like Alder is oem and the other isn't). Then my next question is, I was just reading about people removing the delay portion that was added to 2004. If i'm replacing everything, would it be more useful to use a 2000-2003 slave? someday I would like to do the solo autocross stuff that SCCA does but who knows.

Thanks anyone for your help!!!!

cj_in_seattle

What parts do you replace them with? Any particular maker? I notice a lot of price variation and I'd like to not pay $200+ for the parts alone if there are good ones out there for cheaper.