imnida

Been a while s2ki.

Running pretty close to my 10 year ownership anniversary, and have always mulled over going FI.
This year, i was going to let myself pull the trigger on it.
Was planning to buy from a member, until profit sharing got pushed back.
So, i figured it would be high time to check the health of a 168K motor.

Now, i was an idiot and did my compression test without opening the throttle (cold engine)
7 cranks
Cyl#1 - 200
Cyl#2 - 200
Cyl#3 - 160
Cyl#4 - 205

Hoping i might just have a bent valve or an out of spec valve adjustment: I decided to try out dropping a little oil in cyl#3 with fingers crossed on no change in psi readout.

210psi

Curse words were expressed loudly in disbelief.
The thing saw 30mpg not too long before putting it in storage, and still pulls pretty decently.
I've owned it since 2007 at 58k miles. It's never seen an over rev, clutch dump, drag strip, or redline bounce. At least, in my ownership.
It's been driven spirited during pursuits of twisted roads. And grip was usually pushed more than the engine.
I'd consistently see mileage from 26-31mpg, and always at least one vtec engagement per tank.

It's and AP1, and i knew they burned oil (at least, to an extent).
It has been low on oil before, though.

It's a stock engine, aside from a Ballade sports TCT.
Oil changed every 2500 to 3500 miles, usually killing a couple quarts in that duration.
No upgraded AP2 retainers and keepers, or jet bolts (though, i did buy them in preparation for going turbo a few weeks back).
The engine has never been cracked open, aside from doing a valve adjustment in a tech day in Racine, Wisconsin a few years back.

I've got innovative engine and trans mounts with 75A bushings, and forune auto 510s with 11K spring rates all around (similar valving).
Though, i doubt the added stiffness would effect one cylinder.

Going FI is out the window now.

Though, i'm not giving up on the engine.

Would a shortblock rebuild be a better idea?
I thought of just leaving it alone and enjoy what i have going on already.
But, with the intentions of sinking around 8-10 grand going FI; why not bring the engine back up to snuff?

With that in mind: would it be more cost effective and reliable to stay oem and get new rod bearings, pistons (rings and all), and go for new FRM sleeves? Then i'd finally get myself some much desired Volks!
Or, just go for the whole get up and do crank, rods, piston, rings, bearings, etc?

Being that I've been around s2ki for a number of years: I've come to know that our engines aren't the easiest to rebuild successfully. Or, at least, given a high percentage of success for reliability afterwards.

This isn't to say i'm dumb to stroker builds that have miles on them, that aren't driven like grocery getters.

I was considering giving IP a looking into, but, also, want to know what our guru Billman250 would suggest (surprising to see "06 motor... You will need to pull the timing cover and change the trigger wheel and that is IT." Quoted from Billman250)
Haven't looked into availability of shortblocks, yet.

Thoughts?

s2000Junky

Ls3 swap

imnida

Lol another scratch on the wall for that one.

Naa, I'd really like to keep the f20c.

Thank you, though, my good sir!

Tehk

Ls3 swap.

Charper732

Pull the head and check #3 with a bore gauge to see if its the cylinder that's toast or the rings. 160 psi would equate to over 50% on a leakdown

imnida

@ Charper732

I'll give it a shot when I go back to Illinois, next month.
it's quite a massive difference between the other cylinders.

@Tehk

Looks really clean, man! I just cannot get over my categorizing LS swaps as a fad/bandwagon thing..
I like the f20 scream that I have been enjoying the past, nearly, 10 years.

windhund116

Try doing a leak-down test on #3. See if it's burnt valves or maybe tired rings.

Good luck!

MorngWoodStewie

"DId we just become best friends!" Lol ........... "Four digit street car" whats that even mean? Lol I'm so curious n giddy. Effin Honda goals!
U Sir got a thank for just posting a pic!

Car Analogy

There are no frm sleeves. Only sleeves available are iron. You can bore frm slightly over. But piston availability is scarce. So usually the remedy is a used shortblock.

But try to boroscope the cylinder walls first. Get eyes on it and see what you are dealing with. Depending on results, pull head and get hands on the cyl wall too. Then decide next steps.

To those suggesting leakdown, he already did the next best thing. A little oil in the plug hole, then redo compression test. If it goes up to normal, it was the rings leaking. The oil coats the rings, sealing any leaks. So he already knows its his rings leaking.

Tehk

How about a picture of the twin turbo build going on for this year. 454/7.4 liters ERL sleeved LS aluminum twin forged borg warner 69mm turbos. Will make more power than my pocked could handle at this point.