Front sway bar preload
#3
You need to install a sway bar with both wheels on the ground ( or on ramps) with the weight of car on the suspension. Installing the bar with the wheels dangling could possibly preload the bar.
The bar ends where the end links attach, should be as parallel to the ground as possible.
Angled up or down can add preload to one or both sides.
The bar ends where the end links attach, should be as parallel to the ground as possible.
Angled up or down can add preload to one or both sides.
#4
I can see where you might need to have both wheels at ride height to be physically able to install the bar. But I can't see how a swaybar can have preload from install. Unlike stock control arm bushings, its free to pivot in its mounts. The end links pivot as well. As soon as car goes over one bump, any possible preload would disappear.
Now, preload from uneven suspension left to right is a different matter. If you have suspension with adjustable preload, and especially if you have corner balanced them, then adding adjustable swaybar endlinks is a very good idea. You can change the length on each end to make sure you don't have any suspension length difference induced swaybar preload.
Now, preload from uneven suspension left to right is a different matter. If you have suspension with adjustable preload, and especially if you have corner balanced them, then adding adjustable swaybar endlinks is a very good idea. You can change the length on each end to make sure you don't have any suspension length difference induced swaybar preload.
#5
You need to install a sway bar with both wheels on the ground ( or on ramps) with the weight of car on the suspension. Installing the bar with the wheels dangling could possibly preload the bar.
The bar ends where the end links attach, should be as parallel to the ground as possible.
Angled up or down can add preload to one or both sides.
The bar ends where the end links attach, should be as parallel to the ground as possible.
Angled up or down can add preload to one or both sides.
Dont confuse end link length with sway bar pre load, not the same thing.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 03-19-2017 at 04:16 PM.
#6
The swaybars *will* experience "preload" whenever the L-R static weight distribution is unequal. The best way to minimize it is to get adjustable endlinks and have your alignment shop set them while you're sitting in the car on the lift. For best results, also make sure the car is configured exactly as you'll be using it. (For example, track guys typically remove the spare, the toolkit, and sometimes even the passenger seat.)
I've had success with endlinks from McMaster-Carr. The part numbers are (or were - this info is several years old):
60745K64 High-Strength PTFE-Lined Ball Joint Rod End Linkage, 3/8"-24, Male Shank
60745K84 High-Strength PTFE-Lined Ball Joint Rod End Linkage, 3/8"-24, Female Shank
Note: These will work for both front and rear bars, so you can get four of each.
I've had success with endlinks from McMaster-Carr. The part numbers are (or were - this info is several years old):
60745K64 High-Strength PTFE-Lined Ball Joint Rod End Linkage, 3/8"-24, Male Shank
60745K84 High-Strength PTFE-Lined Ball Joint Rod End Linkage, 3/8"-24, Female Shank
Note: These will work for both front and rear bars, so you can get four of each.
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#8
#9
Moderator
Welcome to one of about 60 pieces of mis-information in the Honda manual.
Stock bar:
There are no rubber bushings in torsion in the system, so there is no preload that happens. Nor is there any need to load anything. You can install the bar with the suspension hanging on the lift, on the ground, does not matter.
Adjustable bar:
Same here. Install the bar with suspension hanging no problem. However, once on the ground, the bar may have side-to-side activation. So having the weight on the car is important here, so the bar can be set in a no-load state. Put the driver in the driver’s seat for even more precision, before attaching the last end link.
In short
-install bar on lift, tighten everything, leave one end of one adjustable link disconnected
-lower car to ground or front on ramps, put driver in seat, and attach the last link. Shorten it, or lengthen it, so it goes into the bar with no load
Stock bar:
There are no rubber bushings in torsion in the system, so there is no preload that happens. Nor is there any need to load anything. You can install the bar with the suspension hanging on the lift, on the ground, does not matter.
Adjustable bar:
Same here. Install the bar with suspension hanging no problem. However, once on the ground, the bar may have side-to-side activation. So having the weight on the car is important here, so the bar can be set in a no-load state. Put the driver in the driver’s seat for even more precision, before attaching the last end link.
In short
-install bar on lift, tighten everything, leave one end of one adjustable link disconnected
-lower car to ground or front on ramps, put driver in seat, and attach the last link. Shorten it, or lengthen it, so it goes into the bar with no load
Last edited by Billman250; 12-14-2017 at 04:05 AM.
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LaosguyAP1 (12-14-2017)
#10
I found it really strange that the factory manual recommends preloading a bar with ball/socket links.
Its written that way in the TSX manual too.
I thought it was to account for hole slop in the bar eyelet
Its written that way in the TSX manual too.
I thought it was to account for hole slop in the bar eyelet