eromeroS2K

so you think it could deff be that pedal ? i found a replacement for 25$ it dosnt hurt me to get it switched no big deal, just wondering, cuz i remember that i tested for current and there was no current going to those switches so i think its something like a relay ? 2007 Honda S2000 OEM Factory Clutch Pedal 77k miles AP2 F22C 2.0L S2K a57 | eBay

eromeroS2K

i think its also a long shot, i found this clutch pedal, worst case scenario ill replace it and cross that out, but being said that i tapped them with a wire and bypassed them i find it hard to believe it could still be that.

2007 Honda S2000 OEM Factory Clutch Pedal 77k miles AP2 F22C 2.0L S2K a57 | eBay

Spartarus

Don't spend any money throwing parts at it until you have identified the problem. Here goes, "Sherlock Holmes Style" Let's use a logical sequence of tests to eliminate all the possibilities until only 1 remains. That will be your problem.

This assumes that you replaced the solenoid along with the starter for testing, because they're built into the same unit.

Step 0: Turn key on

Step 1: Jump the starter solenoid terminal (Where the Black and White wire connects to the starter solenoid) to battery positive. The engine will crank. (If not, it can only be an open in the starting/charging subharness or a bad ground.)

Step 2: Connect the Black and White Solenoid wire to battery ground thru multimeter. Press start. If no voltage observed, continue. (If there's voltage, it can only be a bad ground)

Step 3: pull the start switch and connect the Blue and White wire to a multimeter, and to battery positive. If there's 12v, and the engine doesn't crank, it's the starter cut relay. If there's 0V, It's the clutch switch or its wiring. If the engine cranks and there's 12v, it's the starter switch or the No. 3 fuse.

The Step 3 assumes you still have the clutch switch bypassed (the light blue wire jumpered to ground). If you do not, follow the same steps with the clutch switch connected, hold the multimeter, and press the clutch down. One of the 3 conditions will exist when the clutch hits the floor.

eromeroS2K

i will attempt all of these and get back at you, thank you for the solid answer, sorry for being a nag, im not an electrician but i understand concepts and logic. i will try to interpret your text as best as i can and update you with results

eromeroS2K

you think you could email me these steps explained in baby talk ? meaning ? be more specific, im having a hard time understanding portions of your explanation im guessing because of my lack of knowledge.

eromeroS2K

here is my email, erlanromero@msn.com

Spartarus

Ok... Here it is in simpler terms... You will need a length of wire to use as a jumper.

Turn the key to the "on" position. This closes the necessary circuits for the tests to take place, and the engine to run.

Fortunately, we know your engine bump starts and runs, which is awesome. You also already put in a known good starter, which is doubly awesome. That means it's an electrical problem in the starter circuit. That's the big stuff out of the way already! Now we have to find it by isolating parts of the starter circuit (because there are many circuits, relays, and switches involved) and testing them individually.

Look at the starter. There is a heavy duty positive cable connected - this is the starter motor positive cable. There is a less heavy black-and-white wire connected up higher. This is the solenoid relay wire. When the required switches close, positive current is applied to this wire, it closes the magnetic switch in the solenoid, which completes the circuit from the high current cable, through the starter motor, to body ground, and eventually back to the negative battery terminal.

If the starter cable is damaged, then the switch will close, but there will be no current to turn the starter. If there is a bad ground, you can apply positive all day, but the circuit will not be complete, and nothing will happen.

The easy way to test that on the car is to bypass all the fancy circuitry and examine 1 circuit at a time. Attach a length of wire to the solenoid terminal (that the B/W wire connects to, and jump it to battery positive. Don't shock yourself. This closes the relay, and because the starter is hard-wired to positive and ground, the engine will turn. You could do this with the key off and the starter would turn over. If it doesn't then you know the problem is in the starter cable, or the ground. There are several grounds from the motor and a ground cable from the battery to inspect at this point.

If it turns over, then that circuit is eliminated. Go to step 2.
If it doesn't, you need to determine if the problem is the starter cable or ground. Go to step 2 anyway.

So, you take the black-and-white wire and connect it to one wire on a multimeter. Set the multimeter to VDC, and touch the other tester to battery negative. Press "start." as if you were starting the car. (clutch in, Key on) If you see 12 volts, then everything upstream on the low current side is working fine, and the ground is to blame. If you see 0 volts, then something in the series of relays and switches upstream of the solenoid wire. Good. Next step.

Hook the starter stuff back up.

Next, we have to figure out which relay or switch is causing the problem. This is easy, because we can test all 3 with 1 wire. Pull out the starter switch, unplug it. There is a blue and white wire on the plug. Ordinarily, when you press the button, it connects the black and white wire (positive) to the blue and white wire, which continues on downstream through a series of switches and relays until it reaches ground. The relay it passes through is the starter cut relay. That relay, when energized, passes current down the solenoid wire to engage the starter.

So, we put a multimeter pin in that blue-and-white wire. We take the other end straight to battery positive, and either push the clutch in, or bypass the clutch switch by jumping the plug or grounding the light blue wire. Only 1 of 3 things can happen at this point.

If there is 12V and the engine doesn't crank, then that means we have energized the starter cut relay, but it hasn't closed its relay circuit. Bad relay, then. It's relay number 4 in the main under-hood fuse box. middle in the row of 3 at the forward end.

If there is 12V, and the engine cranks, then we've determined 1 of 2 things, either the starter button is bad, or the circuit that contains the #3 fuse in the in-cabin fuse box is bad. So, we test the starter button with the continuity or ohms function on the multimeter, and there ya go. If the button works, it's the #3 fuse or its circuit. If the button doesn't work... Well, then, it's the button... Probably just corroded contacts.

If there is 0V, then that means the circuit that runs through the low side of the starter cut relay is not complete. Sad face. In order to close this circuit, current has to flow through the relay, and then through the clutch switch to ground. So, we know the clutch switch is bad, or adjusted improperly.

When you finish the procedure, you can report your findings, and we can proceed. The solution will be to directly test the part that we have determined to be defective. If it tests bad, it can be repaired or replaced. If the part tests good, then that means we have bad wiring to chase. But, we will know what circuit it is, and I can give you the list of wires, locations, colors, and terminals... From there you can find the bad wire or terminal and fix it. Hell, you may find rodent damage, or a ground that has corroded out.

blueosprey90

Spartarus, I like your diagnostic approach.

Eromero, although despair has probably impacted caps and sentence structure, your posts are painful to read. You're lucky Spartarus got through them, Good luck with the fix, lad.

eromeroS2K

I have an update . On switch b there is 12v on switch i there is no voltage, does that help ? Thats with the ignition on by pressing or depressing he pedal

shind3

Welcome to Facebook where all you need are two thumbs and even fewer brain cells.

WTF does this mean? English mothafu**a! Do you speak it?

And why are you testing switch B? It has nothing to do with the starter interlock.

Switch B only detects movement at the top of pedal travel. Only used to disable cruise control.

Switch I only detects movement at the BOTTOM of pedal travel. This is the switch that is used as part of the starter interlock because we want to make sure the pedal is pushed in all the way to guarantee the clutch is disengaged.