Does The Brand of Clay Bar Matter?
08-16-2016, 11:37 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Does The Brand of Clay Bar Matter?
So I've been trying to decide whether to spend more on a Meguiars clay bar kit (2 bars) or a local brand which is considerably cheaper (also 2 bars). Question is, does it REALLY matter? Who has experience with various brands of clay? Any advice appreciated 
08-16-2016, 01:07 PM
#2
Your choices are natural vs synthetic. Plus the newest addition, a clay mitt. If I remember correctly all the natural clays are made at one plant, so there isn't much difference. The synthetics seem to hold up better vs natural clay. I would start with a fine grade clay (natural or synthetic) and a quality lube which will work well on 90% of cleaning projects. If you can source a local brand of decent quality and grade I would use it. You might ask around of local detailers for their recommendation on their product as well.
08-17-2016, 03:08 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Your choices are natural vs synthetic. Plus the newest addition, a clay mitt. If I remember correctly all the natural clays are made at one plant, so there isn't much difference. The synthetics seem to hold up better vs natural clay. I would start with a fine grade clay (natural or synthetic) and a quality lube which will work well on 90% of cleaning projects. If you can source a local brand of decent quality and grade I would use it. You might ask around of local detailers for their recommendation on their product as well.
Good idea about asking local detailers what they use. I assume it would be the cheaper brand just to save cost but the results may really be the same.
I watched an AMMO NYC video where he uses car wash as a lube. His projects turn out just fine. What do you think of this? Lube or just good quality car wash which I currently have?
08-17-2016, 04:24 AM
#4
Just be sure the soap has adequate lubricity (slickness) or you could damage the clear coat. So soap will work if it feels slick to the touch. AMMO NYC videos have excellent advice and has great results as you indicated. I wouldn't stress over the clay type, the fine grade is excellent for glass and even wheels (just don't use it on painted surfaces afterward) or clear plastic lenses.
08-17-2016, 08:17 AM
#5
Registered User
I'd recommend the Nanoskin prep sponges and Chemical Guys Clay Luber to start out. You'll use the sponges for 99% of the times and you'll never regret not purchasing the actual clay the first time you get a little lazy and drop it on the ground. Then once you master it and get the detailing bug, maybe move up to some Iron X, a cheap DA, and DA prep pads for very fast and full decontamination.
A bar or two is nice to have around however for around emblems and in the tiny spots the sponges can't reach. I can't remember the last time I brought out my clay bar though...
A bar or two is nice to have around however for around emblems and in the tiny spots the sponges can't reach. I can't remember the last time I brought out my clay bar though...
08-17-2016, 09:28 AM
#6
For some odd reason I always got better results from the Mothers yellow clay kit, a couple times I used the Megs white clay it seemed to create more marring of the clear surface. I don't know if it is the type of clay or if it is a difference in the lubricant but I never had issues with the Mothers yellow clay kit and I will stick to using that in the future.
08-17-2016, 11:11 AM
#7
I found I like Clay Magic (it's a blue clay bar) or Mother's yellow clay bar. I had issues with the Meguire's white bar and found that for heavy dirt I like the other two better. If I know the surface is fairly clean already or for touchups I would use the Meguire's. I found the Meguires white clay bar was the least user friendly on heavy dirt or debris.
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08-18-2016, 10:25 AM
#8
Thread Starter
Just be sure the soap has adequate lubricity (slickness) or you could damage the clear coat. So soap will work if it feels slick to the touch. AMMO NYC videos have excellent advice and has great results as you indicated. I wouldn't stress over the clay type, the fine grade is excellent for glass and even wheels (just don't use it on painted surfaces afterward) or clear plastic lenses.
08-18-2016, 10:27 AM
#9
Thread Starter
I'd recommend the Nanoskin prep sponges and Chemical Guys Clay Luber to start out. You'll use the sponges for 99% of the times and you'll never regret not purchasing the actual clay the first time you get a little lazy and drop it on the ground. Then once you master it and get the detailing bug, maybe move up to some Iron X, a cheap DA, and DA prep pads for very fast and full decontamination.
A bar or two is nice to have around however for around emblems and in the tiny spots the sponges can't reach. I can't remember the last time I brought out my clay bar though...
A bar or two is nice to have around however for around emblems and in the tiny spots the sponges can't reach. I can't remember the last time I brought out my clay bar though...
Good advice mate, thanks. I think a fine or even medium clay will do what I need on my S2K as it has not been clayed in a really long time but at the same time does not look overly contaminated.
08-18-2016, 10:28 AM
#10
Thread Starter
I found I like Clay Magic (it's a blue clay bar) or Mother's yellow clay bar. I had issues with the Meguire's white bar and found that for heavy dirt I like the other two better. If I know the surface is fairly clean already or for touchups I would use the Meguire's. I found the Meguires white clay bar was the least user friendly on heavy dirt or debris.
http://www.takealot.com/shield-clay-...t/PLID38161321