Car died - Any advice?
#14
[attachment=100083:image.jpg]Try and find my recent thread when my car died , I bet it's the alarm but in fact there's not a lot wrong with it other that high resistance acros the Molex edge connections which will have frued as a result of years of high current from the fuel pump , which is not working I dare say ! Listen , if not disconnected the fuel in eat the inlet e rivets out manifold ( cold engine) give see if fuel flows if it don't it's immobilised.
The cure is take driver seat out , drill the sodding rivets out that hold the alarm unit to the floor and then either find the correct security screw driver or as I did grind of the heads of the two security screws , your in !
Now in the middle of the connector you will find one or more burnt to buggery connections as result of high resistance and current , I just bypassesed these connections wi th a wire soldered straight to the next pin in the circuit on the board and out into the loom via inline crimps , bingo problem solved , alarm working , car running.
[attachment=100084:image.jpg]
The cure is take driver seat out , drill the sodding rivets out that hold the alarm unit to the floor and then either find the correct security screw driver or as I did grind of the heads of the two security screws , your in !
Now in the middle of the connector you will find one or more burnt to buggery connections as result of high resistance and current , I just bypassesed these connections wi th a wire soldered straight to the next pin in the circuit on the board and out into the loom via inline crimps , bingo problem solved , alarm working , car running.
[attachment=100084:image.jpg]
#15
If you look closely at the 2 nod photo you can see one of the pins for Molex connector has in fact de soldered and burnt through the track on the board. Hence my bodge , albeit a working bodge fix of soldering a wire direct to a pin on the board to bypass the connector .
Off corse you do need to trace the track around the board , find a suitable pointg to solder the wire onto which. All sort of takes soom experience and confidence to do such things.
Also you can't just unplug the board in future ! I couldn't see any other points on the board that were suffering, no hot spots of over heated components
Wouldn't mind this is the cause of most alarm failures and because every one wants to seek u a new alarm rather than simple repair , they all get stuffed in the bin ! Mines is 16 years old and now working ok again other than the bonnet contact which has rotted away and is now by passed as well, pays yer dosh and takes yer chances !,,,
Off corse you do need to trace the track around the board , find a suitable pointg to solder the wire onto which. All sort of takes soom experience and confidence to do such things.
Also you can't just unplug the board in future ! I couldn't see any other points on the board that were suffering, no hot spots of over heated components
Wouldn't mind this is the cause of most alarm failures and because every one wants to seek u a new alarm rather than simple repair , they all get stuffed in the bin ! Mines is 16 years old and now working ok again other than the bonnet contact which has rotted away and is now by passed as well, pays yer dosh and takes yer chances !,,,
#18
No , I didn't say that at all did I ?
Have you managed to get inside the box of tricks ? And inspect the edge connector ?
To change the board you need to get in any way.
Have you managed to get inside the box of tricks ? And inspect the edge connector ?
To change the board you need to get in any way.
#20
Currently - the engineer from H&P is away - they are doing exchanges for new boards @£144, with new fobs. You have to send them yours. Well worth it - just refreshed mine and fixed my alarm issues!
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