NOTICE: Correct Rear Tire Size AP1
02-24-2002, 08:48 AM
#1
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NOTICE: Correct Rear Tire Size AP1
There has been lots of discussion and I wanted to help clear this up.
This advice applies to the Stock Rims, with NON-OEM tires
If you are not running the OEM tires on the rear of the S2K, you should be running a 245/45/16 in the rear.
Our stock 225 is NOT a real 225 and has a 8.5" contact patch which is the same as just about all other 245's out there.
205/55/16 in the front.
This advice applies to the Stock Rims, with NON-OEM tires
If you are not running the OEM tires on the rear of the S2K, you should be running a 245/45/16 in the rear.
Our stock 225 is NOT a real 225 and has a 8.5" contact patch which is the same as just about all other 245's out there.
205/55/16 in the front.
02-24-2002, 09:04 AM
#2
Originally posted by krazik
There has been lots of discussion and I wanted to help clear this up.
If you are not running the OEM tires on the rear of the S2K, you should be running a 245/45/16 in the rear.
Our stock 225 is NOT a real 225 and has a 8.5" contact patch which is the same as just about all other 245's out there.
205/55/16 in the front.
There has been lots of discussion and I wanted to help clear this up.
If you are not running the OEM tires on the rear of the S2K, you should be running a 245/45/16 in the rear.
Our stock 225 is NOT a real 225 and has a 8.5" contact patch which is the same as just about all other 245's out there.
205/55/16 in the front.
02-24-2002, 11:29 AM
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Originally posted by HyperDimensions
So can the fronts handle 225/50/16?
So can the fronts handle 225/50/16?
02-24-2002, 02:41 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by krazik
There has been lots of discussion and I wanted to help clear this up.
If you are not running the OEM tires on the rear of the S2K, you should be running a 245/45/16 in the rear.
Fair enough advice but obviously not an option if one is Plus sizing. Your statement assumes there is only one choice if you are not running OEM, that choice being 245/45/16. Also, since the measured rim width for a tire with the size you recommend above is 8-inches, you will lose 5mm of tread width going down to a wheel width half an inch lower than the measured width. FWIW, according to Bridgestone, the measured rim width for our rears is 7-inches. Because Honda uses a 7.5-inch wheel, the tread width increases .2-inches for every .5-inch deviation from the measured width. So, the tire's actual contact patch increases by 5mm going from a 7 to a 7.5-inch wheel using a 225/50/16 tire. That helps to explain some of the SO-2's wider stance. If this tire was used on a 7-inch wheel, it would lose some of it's contact patch, i.e. become narrower.
Our stock 225 is NOT a real 225 and has a 8.5" contact patch which is the same as just about all other 245's out there.
Again, as I have stated in other posts, careful attention has to be paid to the specific tire you are comparing the SO-2 with. What makes the SO-2's width (contact patch) wider than its stated size is the construction, and this applies to other tires as well. A Nitto NT-555 reportedly has the largest contact patch of any "ZR" rated tire, so switching to that tire will not result in the differences (225 to 245) you mention above. Your statement is true if you were to compare the OEM SO-2 to the Dunlop SP Sport 9000, which has an extremely low contact patch (59.8%) compared to the Nitto NT-555 with the same size (70%). This is why the pic (within one of these posts in this Tire/Wheel forum) shows the OEM S0-2 being significantly wider than the 225/50/16 SP-9000...it's because of the Dunlop's construction. Each tire's construction and yes, ultimately the contact patch, is different. It's not really accurate to assume the OEM Potenza is the only tire available with a sidewall construction maximizing contact patch. It would be awesome if someone lived near (or had access with) a high performance tire dealership so models of our OEM sizes could be measured to establish a data base which would provide our members with such important information such as tires specifically designed to maximize contact patch.
I'm not disagreeing with your advice, I just wanted to elaborate on it just a bit. Feel free to correct anything I might have written that you feel is inaccurate. I'm not trying to be the tire/wheel police but I'm of the mindset that many of the recommendations posted here are simply too narrow to be written in stone. There is nothing inherently dangerous about using a 205/45/17 and 235/40/17 combination. What makes deviations from the OEM sizes dangerous is more due to the driver and his/her understanding of the handling nuances of their S2K and how specific changes will affect the stock handling parameters. In the hands of a skilled driver, running same-sized tires on the S2K would be possible, if for no other reason than the individual would KNOW what to expect. Some folks in here asking for advice do not understand what offsets are, and for that reason, I think your advice is definitely wise. These type of drivers do not have the experience to be fiddling around with over/understeer, etc. For the rest of us, with experience comes the variance of choice. I'd rather have pronounced oversteer than a neutral handling sportscar any day of the week. I want to drive the car, not point it.
Then again, I've owned about four assorted mid-engined cars prior to the S2000 and I feel that is a pretty darn good primer for driving a car of this nature. Compared to some of them, the Honda is as firmly planted as a Hummer. Driving this car at 7/10th's doesn't have to be a dangerous thing...it's when driver's whose abilities are 4 to 5/10's want to go 10/10 in the rain around a interstate onramp doing 20mph over the posted limit and then blame the spinning donuts on the dough when they should be blaming 'em on the baker.
Just my .02
There has been lots of discussion and I wanted to help clear this up.
If you are not running the OEM tires on the rear of the S2K, you should be running a 245/45/16 in the rear.
Fair enough advice but obviously not an option if one is Plus sizing. Your statement assumes there is only one choice if you are not running OEM, that choice being 245/45/16. Also, since the measured rim width for a tire with the size you recommend above is 8-inches, you will lose 5mm of tread width going down to a wheel width half an inch lower than the measured width. FWIW, according to Bridgestone, the measured rim width for our rears is 7-inches. Because Honda uses a 7.5-inch wheel, the tread width increases .2-inches for every .5-inch deviation from the measured width. So, the tire's actual contact patch increases by 5mm going from a 7 to a 7.5-inch wheel using a 225/50/16 tire. That helps to explain some of the SO-2's wider stance. If this tire was used on a 7-inch wheel, it would lose some of it's contact patch, i.e. become narrower.
Our stock 225 is NOT a real 225 and has a 8.5" contact patch which is the same as just about all other 245's out there.
Again, as I have stated in other posts, careful attention has to be paid to the specific tire you are comparing the SO-2 with. What makes the SO-2's width (contact patch) wider than its stated size is the construction, and this applies to other tires as well. A Nitto NT-555 reportedly has the largest contact patch of any "ZR" rated tire, so switching to that tire will not result in the differences (225 to 245) you mention above. Your statement is true if you were to compare the OEM SO-2 to the Dunlop SP Sport 9000, which has an extremely low contact patch (59.8%) compared to the Nitto NT-555 with the same size (70%). This is why the pic (within one of these posts in this Tire/Wheel forum) shows the OEM S0-2 being significantly wider than the 225/50/16 SP-9000...it's because of the Dunlop's construction. Each tire's construction and yes, ultimately the contact patch, is different. It's not really accurate to assume the OEM Potenza is the only tire available with a sidewall construction maximizing contact patch. It would be awesome if someone lived near (or had access with) a high performance tire dealership so models of our OEM sizes could be measured to establish a data base which would provide our members with such important information such as tires specifically designed to maximize contact patch.
I'm not disagreeing with your advice, I just wanted to elaborate on it just a bit. Feel free to correct anything I might have written that you feel is inaccurate. I'm not trying to be the tire/wheel police but I'm of the mindset that many of the recommendations posted here are simply too narrow to be written in stone. There is nothing inherently dangerous about using a 205/45/17 and 235/40/17 combination. What makes deviations from the OEM sizes dangerous is more due to the driver and his/her understanding of the handling nuances of their S2K and how specific changes will affect the stock handling parameters. In the hands of a skilled driver, running same-sized tires on the S2K would be possible, if for no other reason than the individual would KNOW what to expect. Some folks in here asking for advice do not understand what offsets are, and for that reason, I think your advice is definitely wise. These type of drivers do not have the experience to be fiddling around with over/understeer, etc. For the rest of us, with experience comes the variance of choice. I'd rather have pronounced oversteer than a neutral handling sportscar any day of the week. I want to drive the car, not point it.
Then again, I've owned about four assorted mid-engined cars prior to the S2000 and I feel that is a pretty darn good primer for driving a car of this nature. Compared to some of them, the Honda is as firmly planted as a Hummer. Driving this car at 7/10th's doesn't have to be a dangerous thing...it's when driver's whose abilities are 4 to 5/10's want to go 10/10 in the rain around a interstate onramp doing 20mph over the posted limit and then blame the spinning donuts on the dough when they should be blaming 'em on the baker.Just my .02
02-25-2002, 11:16 AM
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Let me get this straight. If I go to a tire store to get new tires and want the Potenza S03's, I should ask for 245/45/16 and not 225//50/16?
I have the original rims (wheels?) on the car and original rubber as well. I am at 10K+ miles and the rears are almost toast. I need to make sure I get the correct tire as I am about to replace my rears.
I have the original rims (wheels?) on the car and original rubber as well. I am at 10K+ miles and the rears are almost toast. I need to make sure I get the correct tire as I am about to replace my rears.
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02-26-2002, 05:28 AM
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Being someone who doesn't know a 245/45/16 from a 342/88/73(lol), can someone explain what these numbers actually mean? Or is there a thread that explains them? I haven't found one yet.
Someone on another post stated they were running with 245/40/16 and loved them. What is the difference? And please don't say 0/5/0. Even that I know. I guess once I understand what these numbers mean I will understand the difference.
Also, Jim from TireRack, you say you can save me some money. Once I get the tires from you, where do I go to get them put on. Yes, you can save me some money on the tires but then I have to pay someone to put them on, and now my cost is the same as if I just went to a tire store here in my area and bought them there and had them install them. Can you elaborate? Thanks.
Someone on another post stated they were running with 245/40/16 and loved them. What is the difference? And please don't say 0/5/0. Even that I know. I guess once I understand what these numbers mean I will understand the difference.
Also, Jim from TireRack, you say you can save me some money. Once I get the tires from you, where do I go to get them put on. Yes, you can save me some money on the tires but then I have to pay someone to put them on, and now my cost is the same as if I just went to a tire store here in my area and bought them there and had them install them. Can you elaborate? Thanks.