Has anyone had any burnt relays from rewiring a FB340 fuel pump?
08-20-2013, 08:28 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Has anyone had any burnt relays from rewiring a FB340 fuel pump?
I just read Spectacle's "Walbro 400 fuel pump install" thread here:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/999...-pump-install/
In the first post he said:
"The relay MELTED at the power lead going to the pump. This happened because the stock wiring being used between the top of the hanger assembly and the pump produced too much resistance and in turn, heat, which burned up the relay."
I have my FullBlown 340 pump wired this way. So far I haven't burnt the relay, harness or wires (from what I can see, I haven't removed the fuel pump). I've been running it this way for about 7,000 miles.
Should I be concerned about melting the relay or wires?
Should I bother to change the "rewire" to a "hardwire" like Spectacle did in his thread?
Has anyone with this setup "rewired" w/ the FullBlown 340 have any issues?
Thanks
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/999...-pump-install/
In the first post he said:
"The relay MELTED at the power lead going to the pump. This happened because the stock wiring being used between the top of the hanger assembly and the pump produced too much resistance and in turn, heat, which burned up the relay."
I have my FullBlown 340 pump wired this way. So far I haven't burnt the relay, harness or wires (from what I can see, I haven't removed the fuel pump). I've been running it this way for about 7,000 miles.
Should I be concerned about melting the relay or wires?
Should I bother to change the "rewire" to a "hardwire" like Spectacle did in his thread?
Has anyone with this setup "rewired" w/ the FullBlown 340 have any issues?
Thanks
08-21-2013, 02:56 AM
#2
Yes I have.
I have a walbro 255 and my brother has the aeromotive 340. We both wired the power straight from the batter to a relay then to the tope tiny wire on top of the fuel pump housing. My setup never has a problem. My brothers set up would melt relays just like the thred you posted. But he would melt relays every 5000-10,000 miles.
We then took his fuel pump housing out drilled a small hole into the top of the housing to run a much thicker wire to power the 340 area motive pump. Now we have no more melting relay problems.
255 walbro can run the stock wire
340 aero motive will melt relays but not instantly like the walbro 400. Bothe the walbro 400 and the aeromotive 340 you must drill the fuel pump housing to power the pump with a bigger wire.
I have a walbro 255 and my brother has the aeromotive 340. We both wired the power straight from the batter to a relay then to the tope tiny wire on top of the fuel pump housing. My setup never has a problem. My brothers set up would melt relays just like the thred you posted. But he would melt relays every 5000-10,000 miles.
We then took his fuel pump housing out drilled a small hole into the top of the housing to run a much thicker wire to power the 340 area motive pump. Now we have no more melting relay problems.
255 walbro can run the stock wire
340 aero motive will melt relays but not instantly like the walbro 400. Bothe the walbro 400 and the aeromotive 340 you must drill the fuel pump housing to power the pump with a bigger wire.
08-21-2013, 03:41 AM
#3
Oh I absolutely believe it. I have mine wired with 10G from the relay directly to the pump (drilled a hole for +/- and sealed with hondabond)
I'd say he was lucky the relay melted and not the wire in the pump. \0.0/ all the increased current was being bottled necked by the small wire. I'd imagine that small wire was heating up as well.
I'd say he was lucky the relay melted and not the wire in the pump. \0.0/ all the increased current was being bottled necked by the small wire. I'd imagine that small wire was heating up as well.
08-21-2013, 06:18 AM
#5
Thread Starter
OK, I better hardwire this fuel pump before I go down in flames!!!!!!!!
Are any of you guys worried about Science of Speed said in Post #25 of Spectacle's thread above??
"Keep in mind passing the wires through as you show is not recommended as the fuel can wick through the stranded copper wire in the insulation. While this may be a minimal amount of fuel, the concern would be the small amount of fuel turning in to vapor and igniting from spark of electrical components (such as the relay). A hermetically sealed connector (like what the factory carrier uses) is recommended. "
Is there a special type of fuel resistant wire that you used in the fuel tank?
Are any of you guys worried about Science of Speed said in Post #25 of Spectacle's thread above??
"Keep in mind passing the wires through as you show is not recommended as the fuel can wick through the stranded copper wire in the insulation. While this may be a minimal amount of fuel, the concern would be the small amount of fuel turning in to vapor and igniting from spark of electrical components (such as the relay). A hermetically sealed connector (like what the factory carrier uses) is recommended. "
Is there a special type of fuel resistant wire that you used in the fuel tank?
08-21-2013, 10:21 AM
#6
OK, I better hardwire this fuel pump before I go down in flames!!!!!!!!
Are any of you guys worried about Science of Speed said in Post #25 of Spectacle's thread above??
"Keep in mind passing the wires through as you show is not recommended as the fuel can wick through the stranded copper wire in the insulation. While this may be a minimal amount of fuel, the concern would be the small amount of fuel turning in to vapor and igniting from spark of electrical components (such as the relay). A hermetically sealed connector (like what the factory carrier uses) is recommended. "
Is there a special type of fuel resistant wire that you used in the fuel tank?
Are any of you guys worried about Science of Speed said in Post #25 of Spectacle's thread above??
"Keep in mind passing the wires through as you show is not recommended as the fuel can wick through the stranded copper wire in the insulation. While this may be a minimal amount of fuel, the concern would be the small amount of fuel turning in to vapor and igniting from spark of electrical components (such as the relay). A hermetically sealed connector (like what the factory carrier uses) is recommended. "
Is there a special type of fuel resistant wire that you used in the fuel tank?
I would also like to know. It has me slightly worried.
08-21-2013, 10:38 AM
#7
Former Sponsor
The issue isn't a specific type of wire. It is that you have stranded wire (which has an air gap between the stranded wires) that can wick the fuel out of the tank. To do this safely, you'll want to use a hermetic connector, like factory, which is a sealed path between the inside and outside of the tank to prevent fuel from wicking in to the cabin turning in to vapor.
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08-21-2013, 11:02 AM
#8
The issue isn't a specific type of wire. It is that you have stranded wire (which has an air gap between the stranded wires) that can wick the fuel out of the tank. To do this safely, you'll want to use a hermetic connector, like factory, which is a sealed path between the inside and outside of the tank to prevent fuel from wicking in to the cabin turning in to vapor.
Do you have pictures on how you do it?
08-21-2013, 12:09 PM
#10
Thread Starter
The issue isn't a specific type of wire. It is that you have stranded wire (which has an air gap between the stranded wires) that can wick the fuel out of the tank. To do this safely, you'll want to use a hermetic connector, like factory, which is a sealed path between the inside and outside of the tank to prevent fuel from wicking in to the cabin turning in to vapor.
Thanks
